SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[JohnMRobie]

I'm far from an igent..whatever the fu¢k that means..

However i work at a large bank in Manhattan and wear a suit and tie 4 days a week. A sartorial cut suit will stand out on the margin against what 99% of your colleagues wear. For a solid navy it will be marginal but the silhouette is different than the norm. Not enough to categorically throw you into the Dandy category but all things considered I'd definitely revert to the more common structured shoulder if the goal is to look good but not stand out too much.

Conflating spalla camicia and structure like they’re the same thing ought be enough to disregard any of this advice.

None of these suits have padded shoulders. Two are Spalla camicia. All four are plenty conservative for even the most conservative office environments.

 

[WhyUEarly]

Damn those suits look good. Do you worry about outshining your boss with such nice suits? I worry about worrying my Neo jackets because even the managing partner is usually only in a Vneck sweater.

 

[clee1982]

Conflating spalla camicia and structure like they’re the same thing ought be enough to disregard any of this advice.

None of these suits have padded shoulders. Two are Spalla camicia. All four are plenty conservative for even the most conservative office environments. View attachment 2293361 View attachment 2293363 View attachment 2293369 View attachment 2293371

And that’s why we should have more jacket pocket option!

 

[JohnMRobie]

Damn those suits look good. Do you worry about outshining your boss with such nice suits? I worry about worrying my Neo jackets because even the managing partner is usually only in a Vneck sweater.

I’m not qualified to answer that one.

 

[Crispyj]

That’s the most sprezzatura way I’ve ever seen someone say they’re the boss!

 

[JayDee90]

@JohnMRobie i haven’t seen you active in this thread before! Are there items at S&M that you like to buy (assuming you are still using bespoke for suiting, etc) or just perusing through the forum?

 

[JohnMRobie]

@JohnMRobie i haven’t seen you active in this thread before! Are there items at S&M that you like to buy (assuming you are still using bespoke for suiting, etc) or just perusing through the forum?

Still bespoke for tailoring and shirts. I was contemplating grabbing a dinner jacket as a beater because I’ve got a week of BT events and ended up one rig short to have a different one for each evening and S&M is cheap enough to justify a one time use.

 

[KlarkKent]

Conflating spalla camicia and structure like they’re the same thing ought be enough to disregard any of this advice.

None of these suits have padded shoulders. Two are Spalla camicia. All four are plenty conservative for even the most conservative office environments. View attachment 2293361 View attachment 2293363 View attachment 2293369 View attachment 2293371

Your suits look great John. I'll concede that they are more than suitable for any office.

Are they all S&M? My input was based on my experience wearing the sartorial cut "emerald" label S&M jackets which IMO have a much different and not optimal silhouette compared to what i wear otherwise. I'll post pictures later. Agreed though these days it's marginal anyway

 

[WhyUEarly]

Your suits look great John. I'll concede that they are more than suitable for any office.

Are they all S&M? My input was based on my experience wearing the sartorial cut "emerald" label S&M jackets which IMO have a much different and not optimal silhouette compared to what i wear otherwise. I'll post pictures later. Agreed though these days it's marginal anyway

I'd be curious to see how the Emerald label compares with the other cuts so I look forward to the pics. Structure seems to be coming back so I'm pondering dipping my toes in after not buying spier for a couple of years.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Your suits look great John. I'll concede that they are more than suitable for any office.

Are they all S&M? My input was based on my experience wearing the sartorial cut "emerald" label S&M jackets which IMO have a much different and not optimal silhouette compared to what i wear otherwise. I'll post pictures later. Agreed though these days it's marginal anyway

No. They’re all bespoke.

But the problem with blanket advice about things like structure in the shoulder is that fit will be different for everyone. I have broad and slightly square shoulders. If you add padding to my shoulders it makes a straight line (I don’t mind the look for a 70’s Sexton vibe and have a Sexton dinner suit for when I feel like getting a little flamboyant). If you have someone with smol shoulders or sloping shoulders they’ll need some padding and maybe some rope or extension to get to standard.

Spalla camicia is the sleeve head finishing and is unrelated to structure and padding. It’s also plenty common in meetings I’ve been in and I assure you, there are plenty of people who work in finance and are keeping the Kiton and Isaia boutiques in business which both have both unstructured shoulders and spalla camicia.

 

[kingindelco]

No. They’re all bespoke.

How does one go about getting a bespoke suit in the US? I've been contemplating getting one, but don't quite know the best approach. I live in Philadelphia, and it does not seem we have bespoke tailors here. My research so far tells me my best bet is to travel to New York. But I'd much prefer to build a relationship with a local tailor.

 

[JohnMRobie]

How does one go about getting a bespoke suit in the US? I've been contemplating getting one, but don't quite know the best approach. I live in Philadelphia, and it does not seem we have bespoke tailors here. My research so far tells me my best bet is to travel to New York. But I'd much prefer to build a relationship with a local tailor.

There are very few US based bespoke tailors so a traveling tailor who comes 3-4x a year will be your best bet. I believe Steed visits Philly. Not sure of others. If you’re willing to hit NY or DC options of who travels expand greatly. Lots of MTM guys holding themselves out as bespoke but aren’t.

Next step is figuring out the style of suit you want and finding a tailor whose house style fits what you’re after. Drape, English structure, middle of the road English, Neapolitan, Florentine, etc. after that it’s just a matter of making appointments.

 

[kingindelco]

There are very few US based bespoke tailors so a traveling tailor who comes 3-4x a year will be your best bet. I believe Steed visits Philly. Not sure of others. If you’re willing to hit NY or DC options of who travels expand greatly. Lots of MTM guys holding themselves out as bespoke but aren’t.

Next step is figuring out the style of suit you want and finding a tailor whose house style fits what you’re after. Drape, English structure, middle of the road English, Neapolitan, Florentine, etc. after that it’s just a matter of making appointments.

Appreciate it!

 

[DapperPhilly]

Sorry to interupt but would those who have given the made in china ties a go, give me some feedback please.

I'm thinking of purchasing this purple and white polka dot number.

Purple & White Polka Dot Tie| SPIER & MACKAY

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

Thanks

 

[BlueSteel]

But the problem with blanket advice about things like structure in the shoulder is that fit will be different for everyone. I have broad and slightly square shoulders. If you add padding to my shoulders it makes a straight line (I don’t mind the look for a 70’s Sexton vibe and have a Sexton dinner suit for when I feel like getting a little flamboyant). If you have someone with smol shoulders or sloping shoulders they’ll need some padding and maybe some rope or extension to get to standard.

Spalla camicia is the sleeve head finishing and is unrelated to structure and padding. It’s also plenty common in meetings I’ve been in and I assure you, there are plenty of people who work in finance and are keeping the Kiton and Isaia boutiques in business which both have both unstructured shoulders and spalla camicia.

This.

I also have fairly square and broad shoulders. I prefer spalla camicia on me - it works IMO. I am a lawyer, and I have worn S&M Neo suits with spalla camicia to Court, settlement proceedings, etc. In such settings I am surrounded by businessmen and other lawyers. For those who even notice style at all (the minority of such people) the way I "stand out" is purely positive - last settlement meeting I conducted, one businessman commented that he noticed my suit and paid me a nice compliment on the way I dressed. (Frankly most men dress terribly, so standing out is a good thing.)