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ColdEyedPugilist

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Hmm… I’ve been reading through some of the previous posts; it appears there are serious issues with Filarte, in terms of drape and robustness.

Shame.

There are some really nice looking English-cut suits in Spier’s current catalogue. Ah well…
 

MarkI

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Size up if you plan to wear suits/SCs/layering underneath.
I’m usually right in between a 42-44, feel like a 46 might be too big… really wish they at least had a NYC showroom to try things on. The shipping/returning game is such a pain.
 

DonRaphael

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Question for those who’ve ordered a sport coat or suit in Dino Filarte cloth.

What did you think of it? Is it noticeably different from the Italian and English fabrics many of us are accustomed to? Or is it all in the mind, a case of cloth snobbery?
Not a fan personally. Inferior drape, develops a sheen at stressed points (elbows), fraying and won't hold a crease. I sold mine.
 
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DonRaphael

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I’m usually right in between a 42-44, feel like a 46 might be too big… really wish they at least had a NYC showroom to try things on. The shipping/returning game is such a pain.
I'm a size 40-42 and 42 fits well. I could even use more room in the back tbh. If you're inbetween sizes, I would definitely recommend you to size up.
 

ColdEyedPugilist

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Not a fan personally. Inferior drape, fraying and wouldn't hold a crease. I sold mine.
Yeah. I read your posts, Don. Thanks for the feedback; it saved me from purchasing something I’d regret later.
 

DonRaphael

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Yeah. I read your posts, Don. Thanks for the feedback; it saved me from purchasing something I’d regret later.
The only time I would actually advice anyone to get something made out of Dino Filarte is if they're not particularly interested in CM, don't care about clothing details and just want a beater suit/SC/odd trouser and would be able to grab said item at a heavy discount. It would still look better than what 99 % of folks out there wear. But knowing your preferences based on your contributions on this forum, that is not you.

In all other instances, it would make much more sense visually and financially to get something more robust that will survive the test of time.
 
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DonRaphael

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Just bought it during the Black Friday sale so I can let you know when it comes in! No experience with their Balmacaans though
Thanks mate, appreciate it. But I commissioned a balmacaan through MTO made out of Magee's gray herringbone fabric.
 

ericgereghty

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Cool.

Sooo cloth snobbery eh?

I still remember the hilarious Simonnot Godard polyester shirting cloth debacle involving Mafoofan and a few others here. Search it up. Definitely worth a chuckle or two. 🤣🤣🤣
Definitely not cloth snobbery. While I would not do DF personally, it's not AWFUL. I would, however, caution you to temper expectations.

Cannot speak to suiting, but I have a DF hopsack in an old Neo cut. It is light, but somehow feels even lighter, and not in a good way. It is also not particularly porous, whilst simultaneously being just ok at resisting wrinkles. To me, I'd buy fewer and buy the higher priced fabric offerings.

Speaking of cost/value, I think Spier has likely taken note for future seasons as to where their value proposition ceases to be compelling for consumers. Somewhat of a shame. I hope it doesn't dissuade them from "fancy" fabrics in the future, but $900 or thereabouts for a RTW SM suit pre-tailoring is just not (never say never) gonna be a thing for me. I'd have been much happier with a pair of Minnis flannel suits some $150 or so cheaper than the Fox offerings. Certainly would have snatched up a navy.
 

JohnMRobie

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Definitely not cloth snobbery. While I would not do DF personally, it's not AWFUL. I would, however, caution you to temper expectations.

I'd have been much happier with a pair of Minnis flannel suits some $150 or so cheaper than the Fox offerings. Certainly would have snatched up a navy.
Cloth snob clocking in - there's definitely a difference between the marginal gains on something like VBC/Minnis vs Fox and something like DF but a lot of it is also bunch specific.
 

blackgrass

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I’m looking for some advice on a suit. I need to pick up a navy suit and looking at the various options. I’ve owned Hickey Freeman and Samuelson level of suits in the past. I’ve lost weight and not looking to spend $$$$. I’m working in a conservative business environment and looking at the basic navy suit:
I have a decent tailor. I’ve read a few reviews but given the thousands of pages, I’m hoping for quick summary. Is this a decent suit? Coming from HF and Samuelson, am I going to be happy? I’m a 42L. Does sizing match up?
 

KlarkKent

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I’m looking for some advice on a suit. I need to pick up a navy suit and looking at the various options. I’ve owned Hickey Freeman and Samuelson level of suits in the past. I’ve lost weight and not looking to spend $$$$. I’m working in a conservative business environment and looking at the basic navy suit:
I have a decent tailor. I’ve read a few reviews but given the thousands of pages, I’m hoping for quick summary. Is this a decent suit? Coming from HF and Samuelson, am I going to be happy? I’m a 42L. Does sizing match up?
I think it's a great choice. IMO VBC cloth presents great value for the price. I have a VBC 110s from Suitsupply that's been a workhorse and has held up great after 5 years to and from the office including 2 years where it was one of only 2 suits I had. I also like that this one has lightly padded shoulders, is fully lined and has flap pockets rather than the more "sartorial" neo style of Spalla Camacia and quarter lined. IMO if you get the sizing right it will look great in the office.
 

KlarkKent

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I think it's a great choice. IMO VBC cloth presents great value for the price. I have a VBC 110s from Suitsupply that's held up great after 5 years to and from the office including 2 years where it was one of only 2 suits I had. I also like that this one has lightly padded shoulders, is fully lined and has flap pockets rather than the more "sartorial" neon style of Spalla Camacia and quarter lined. IMO if you get the sizing right it will look great in the office.
I usually order 2 sizes, keep the box and just send back the one that isn't the best fit. This can help you dial in it you're in between sizes or want to try both slim and contemporary etc to dial in the best fit.
 

blackgrass

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Can you guys describe the difference between fits? I am 6’ 175 42L with a 33” (dress pants). I’m wearing slim fit Charles Tyrwhitt 16 x 35 shirts. I’m in a business/finance environment so I’m leaning more towards the classic look of the contemporary style. The lack of pocket flaps may be a deal breaker for me.
 

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