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bism416

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Recently needed to buy a suit for an event and ended up in Suit Supply (I’m in London) and wanted something under £1000 and reasonable quickly.

The experience made me think of Spier from living in Toronto when they were just starting out.

I fit into a 38L Havana at suit supply with little alterations (little tight upon buttoning but an easy fix) and can manage the new suit supply single pleat trousers in a 32 (others way too tight). Would that make me a 38L in the Neo cut? Contemporary? Apologies if this has been discussed, couldn’t find a specific answer when I searched.
 

CLH03

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Recently needed to buy a suit for an event and ended up in Suit Supply (I’m in London) and wanted something under £1000 and reasonable quickly.

The experience made me think of Spier from living in Toronto when they were just starting out.

I fit into a 38L Havana at suit supply with little alterations (little tight upon buttoning but an easy fix) and can manage the new suit supply single pleat trousers in a 32 (others way too tight). Would that make me a 38L in the Neo cut? Contemporary? Apologies if this has been discussed, couldn’t find a specific answer when I searched.
I would say 38L would work. I much prefer Spier’s cut to SuitSupply (especially the contemporary pants.)
 

classicoutfits

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Recently needed to buy a suit for an event and ended up in Suit Supply (I’m in London) and wanted something under £1000 and reasonable quickly.

The experience made me think of Spier from living in Toronto when they were just starting out.

I fit into a 38L Havana at suit supply with little alterations (little tight upon buttoning but an easy fix) and can manage the new suit supply single pleat trousers in a 32 (others way too tight). Would that make me a 38L in the Neo cut? Contemporary? Apologies if this has been discussed, couldn’t find a specific answer when I searched.

I bought havana 38r had to sell it because sleeves and back length too short.
I wear 38L contemporary
Chest and mid section felt the same
 

dukenukem4ever

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Who is this tailor??
DIKO Custom Tailor in Brooklyn, NY.
Here's the address:
929 70th St, Brooklyn, NY 11228

I went to him last fall, so I'm not sure if he charges higher now. 50 dollars for each jacket to make handmade buttonholes.
When I have the time, I'll take some photos of his work on the S&M sportcoats I brought to him.
 

ericgereghty

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so I like the color of this suit but did not buy based on one of the member's comments on the weight.
This suit has a weight of 235 and they describe it as spring summer lightweight, and the one you are referring to from Spencer is 260 and described as heavier weight 3 seasons. It is gotta be heavier. keep us posted

Hate to be the possible turd in the punchbowl, but I don't think this will be the case here.

SM's CS team (fairly) repeated the verbiage that the Spence Bryson team provided, which is measured lighter than typical #menswear weight assessments are. Hoping that's the case for my navy suit.

In the case of the DB, given that it is likely Angelico or Filarte, I think it lightly is indeed 235g.
 

ericgereghty

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Ok, I'll be the lab rat. Will report back findings whenever it arrives.
Ok, update from CS: I was actually made aware that the wrong information was provided to me initially. The fabric weight for those three products would be 275 gsm.

So, that does mostly (hopefully) track with our assumptions about how SB presents its fabric weights...and would also more align with heavier Irish linens a la Minnis/W Bill.

Fingers crossed SM is only technically correct.
 

gonnagetmine

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Ok, update from CS: I was actually made aware that the wrong information was provided to me initially. The fabric weight for those three products would be 275 gsm.

So, that does mostly (hopefully) track with our assumptions about how SB presents its fabric weights...and would also more align with heavier Irish linens a la Minnis/W Bill.

Fingers crossed SM is only technically correct.
Thanks looks like they updated the listing to 275. Debating between this one vs the Navy linen from natalino that is 380. What do you think is an ideal weight for linen?
 

ericgereghty

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Thanks looks like they updated the listing to 275. Debating between this one vs the Navy linen from natalino that is 380. What do you think is an ideal weight for linen?

Most definitely the heavier 380 gm
Agreed, BUT the SM could well be approximately that weight, if our assumptions are correct. If all things are equal (can't speak to Natalino's quality) weight wise, I'd go SM in a heartbeat, given pricing and styling.

But, apples to apples, 380 over 275g any day
 

ColdEyedPugilist

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Meanwhile, it’s winter on the this end of the world, so I’m just starting to rock my new SM navy chalk stripe flannel…
IMG_6378.png
IMG_6383.png
IMG_6386.jpeg

IMG_6384.png
 

gonnagetmine

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A long overdue promise: side by side comparison of S&M high-rise trousers updated cut Vs. the "old" cut.

Updated cut lovat heavy twill
View attachment 2165823 View attachment 2165825 View attachment 2165827

"Old" cut cotton/linen

View attachment 2165833 View attachment 2165835 View attachment 2165837

Both pairs are 30 contemporary. I think the pictures confirm what I felt when wearing both pairs. The updated cut has a fuller seat, which is mostly visible in the frontal image. The updated cut has more room in the crotch area due to the higher back rise. As a result, they can sit higher on the waist although the measured front rise is the same as the blue pair.

What I don't like about the updated cut is that on my frame they look a bit baggy in the crotch. like they fork really low. This is mostly visible from the front.

I get why S&M updated their cut, but for me it probably means I'll need to do some alteration in the upper thigh area to give the legs more separation. I don't have any other pair in the updated cut so this could be a particular thing of this specific pair. To be determined, I guess.
Hi is your inseam length changed by the new cut? Thanks
 

marchello

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I’m very certain they use the Spence Bryson Tyrone bunch. They are definitely heavy enough for trousers and jackets (almost as heavy as W Bill).

The issue is that they are not sanforized, ie they are not preshrunk so they may shrink a lot. W Bill is sanforized.
 

gonnagetmine

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I’m very certain they use the Spence Bryson Tyrone bunch. They are definitely heavy enough for trousers and jackets (almost as heavy as W Bill).

The issue is that they are not sanforized, ie they are not preshrunk so they may shrink a lot. W Bill is sanforized.
Shrinkage with dry cleaning?
 

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