SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[aglagl]

Hi Spier - any chance the warehouse sale items would be available to purchase through a phone or internet order? I'd gladly pick up some 36S contemp. fit. blazers or suiting sight unseen, even.

 

[SouthOfBloor]

I've noticed shirt sleeve length to vary a bit between my different types of shirts, for me my Linens (this years and last years) have the longest sleeves, the one Poplin I have is the shortest and the rest are about the same. Although the Linens have a noticeably longer length, it works well for me as the sleeves on 15 slim shirts are a bit too short for me, looking forward to when you guys roll out multiple sleeve lengths so I can start buying more OTR shirts (although I would still need darts put in them, I should really just start going MTM)

On a side note, just picked up the Heavy Blue Texture suit from the Independence Day Sale, can't wait to get it back from the tailor, I had to get the jacket taken in at the sides quite a bit as this run of suits fits much larger than the previous ones I've picked up in 38 slim

 

[CanadaCal]

Jacket looks great. Apologies if this has been written about extensively elsewhere on this thread, but can you describe the MTM process with S&M? I'm starting to seriously look into it. Did you have to visit their brick & mortar store or were you able to do it online? Did you submit your measurements, were there multiple fittings, etc?

Has been addressed many times.

You can send measurements in over email
You can send a garment to be copied
You can be measured in person
You can buy a stock size, take pictures, and see about what you want to change, then share the data with S&M. Return the jacket afterwards.


Personally, I got measured in person for my first coat and we went off that.

Second jacket, I wanted a bit more of a relaxed cut. We still took measurements, but based the order on a stock size, we took pics, and then suggested what we wanted to change here and there. Basically saying, "we want this 38S Contemp with the following changes". I think this is easiest for the factory to accept and understand. Especially with pics.

Unless you so far off the stock fit that there is no point. If that's the case I'd say you need in person measurements to be close.


You don't really get multiple fittings on MTM, even in person. The garment comes in fully done, the tailor comes out of the back, and you make some tweaks from there. Then it should be final, or very minor adjustments beyond that.

I love my MTM jackets from Rick, and with each one I get I learn more about my ideal style and cut from him, and work based on improving it. Both are very wearable and look great, but you can always improve as time goes by and your body changes.

 

[afterthesuit]

Hi Spier - any chance the warehouse sale items would be available to purchase through a phone or internet order? I'd gladly pick up some 36S contemp. fit. blazers or suiting sight unseen, even.

I would also be interested, or maybe someone could proxy?

 

[dappercanadian]

I'll try and go today. Apparently a lot of it is untagged though.

 

[DFWWingnut]

For those of you that have done MTM remotely how do you go about selecting fabrics, details, etc. Do you request swatches or source the fabrics yourself?

 

[ShawnBC]

Regarding the difference in length:

I've found S&M shirts length to vary a bit between different fabrics and even between two colors of the same fabric. For instance, my linen shirts (T. Monti fabric) from a few years back are cut a bit looser (I'm guessing because linen = hot weather and hot weather = looser garments to breath), as are the herringbone flannel shirts I have. The Oxford I purchased, I can't wear it as it is too tight in the abdomen, whereas the linen and flannel fit ok. I haven't purchased a Oxford from S&M since as I'm unsure about wether this fit will be what I would receive or if it was a cutting error.

I also purchased 2 colors of the same shirt (some kind of gingham in blue and light blue) and there is around 1" of difference both in sleeve and body length between the two. So much as one can only be worn untucked and with the sleeves rolled, whereas the other one can be tucked in and worn with the sleeves unrolled.

So far, this is my only gripe with S&M shirts. But I haven't ordered 15+ like others in this thread, so I may have received a dud or two.

This doesn't change my appreciation of S&M as a brand and will continue to encourage them to grow bigger as a company.

Edit* On a side note, I think I may send my Luxire OCBD to S&M for MTM replication. Pricing is much more advantageous (is that even a word in English?), especially with bundle pricing!

 

[exfalso]

Can anyone chime in if they are finding any dramatic difference in sleeve length

As someone who's complained about this, I'd say the sleeve lengths have become inconsistent recently.

Anything from last year is pretty much consistent, and I only see minimal variance among those shirts.

This year, though, I've had a custom shirt with sleeves 1" shorter, summer oxfords which came with sleeves 1" longer, and blue chambray shirts with 1/2" shorter sleeves with cuffs 1/4" smaller than spec.

 

[Cartwright]

Long-time fan, first time poster.

I've got a couple shirts that are longer sleeve lengths (and more forgiving cuff sizes), namely a blue gingham (2015 I believe) and the panama weave shirt (2016). These are thinner fabrics, so I presume when cutting a stack of fabric there is a little more "give" near the blade with these ones, causing ones near the bottom to be a touch longer. My OCBDs (5x) are pretty spot on, and some of the more beautiful shirts I own.

The one issue I have with two of my shrits (oddly, the same ones mentioned above now that I think about it..) is the collar sits higher on one side (during the roll process, I guess?). This has been like that since day one, and not because of ironing. Not a big deal though, just sometimes pops out of my jackets if I'm not wearing a tie.

 

[flvinny521]

The one issue I have with two of my shrits (oddly, the same ones mentioned above now that I think about it..) is the collar sits higher on one side (during the roll process, I guess?). This has been like that since day one, and not because of ironing. Not a big deal though, just sometimes pops out of my jackets if I'm not wearing a tie.

This was happening to me as well. I thought it was related to my dropped shoulder (and it very well could be), but I never considered the collar may not be symmetrical. It pops out from my jacket even wearing a tie.

 

[DFWWingnut]

Regarding the difference in length:

I've found S&M shirts length to vary a bit between different fabrics and even between two colors of the same fabric. For instance, my linen shirts (T. Monti fabric) from a few years back are cut a bit looser (I'm guessing because linen = hot weather and hot weather = looser garments to breath), as are the herringbone flannel shirts I have. The Oxford I purchased, I can't wear it as it is too tight in the abdomen, whereas the linen and flannel fit ok. I haven't purchased a Oxford from S&M since as I'm unsure about wether this fit will be what I would receive or if it was a cutting error.

I also purchased 2 colors of the same shirt (some kind of gingham in blue and light blue) and there is around 1" of difference both in sleeve and body length between the two. So much as one can only be worn untucked and with the sleeves rolled, whereas the other one can be tucked in and worn with the sleeves unrolled.

So far, this is my only gripe with S&M shirts. But I haven't ordered 15+ like others in this thread, so I may have received a dud or two.

This doesn't change my appreciation of S&M as a brand and will continue to encourage them to grow bigger as a company.

Edit* On a side note, I think I may send my Luxire OCBD to S&M for MTM replication. Pricing is much more advantageous (is that even a word in English?), especially with bundle pricing!

My OTR shirts (all 2017) are pretty inconsistent too. The necks are all good but sleeve length, cuff size, and fullness all vary. Still a good value but can be frustrating.

 

[Pepetito]

Can anyone chime in if they are finding any dramatic difference in sleeve length? This is the first time in seven years that I received several customers comment on this. If it's an issue I have to find out the reason and make sure it's corrected immediately.

Just an FYI in garment manufacturing, it's near impossible to 100% accurate 100% of the time. We allow for a 1/4" variation +/- from the measurement. For example if the sleeve is 34, it can be 33 3/4" or 34 1/4", and of course it can be dead on 34. It depends on the cutter, the particular weave of the fabric and the tailor. Compound that after washing, and a shrinkage of anywhere from 1-3%, depending on the cloth, and the after wash variance is a bit more. So it is possible to have two shirts that are supposed to be identical, to have a sleeve variation of up to 1/2". It's not just us, it's pretty much every OTR shirtmaker that I know of, even at the very high end. I know Eton for example has a tolerance of only 1/8", but they have a lot more automation in their process, which makes sense.

Anyways, please let me know, if it is varying more pre-wash as I have to be on top of this.

Thanks guys.

Noticed it on this years linens. Very long compared to normal

 

[Notreknip]

My linen (last year) sleeves are longer and the cuffs looser - outside of the linen though, I've had good luck.

 

[Cartwright]

This was happening to me as well. I thought it was related to my dropped shoulder (and it very well could be), but I never considered the collar may not be symmetrical. It pops out from my jacket even wearing a tie.

Look in the mirror without a tie. On mine, one side of collar arches higher than the other. I'm not sure how collars are made, but I suppose it wasn't lined up when it first got pressed - I can't seem to fix it, even with an iron. So, I live with it!

Also, for those interested, I went to the sample sale today - plenty of good stuff available. The cheap (inexpensive) stuff are the samples, which I understand are from the MTM program, so shirts, pants, blazers, etc - you'd have to try these items on, but if you find something that fits you get a steal (plus alterations, of course). There are also plenty of sale items like trousers ($49-$79), some nice sport coats (bright blue herringbone, hopsack, etc.) for $149-$199, cotton suits for $199, wool suits for $299. From what I saw, plenty of sizes and definitely worth checking out if you're in the market.

 

[exfalso]

Hi Spier - any chance the warehouse sale items would be available to purchase through a phone or internet order? I'd gladly pick up some 36S contemp. fit. blazers or suiting sight unseen, even.

There are also plenty of sale items like trousers ($49-$79), some nice sport coats (bright blue herringbone, hopsack, etc.) for $149-$199, cotton suits for $199, wool suits for $299. From what I saw, plenty of sizes and definitely worth checking out if you're in the market.

As someone who fits perfectly into OTR shirts/sportcoats, I'd also love to know.