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Commonbloke

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While I also love this suit, I do have to point out that it was 35+ in Toronto (and swampy) which is pretty normal for Toronto summers...just in case others think that Canada is a frigid block of ice 24/7/365...
We went from a 40C heatwave on Saturday and Sunday to 15C today in Montreal.

Weird weather.
 

milktoast

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While I also love this suit, I do have to point out that it was 35+ in Toronto (and swampy) which is pretty normal for Toronto summers...just in case others think that Canada is a frigid block of ice 24/7/365...
Can attest to this -- visited Toronto during the summer of 2019 and the weather for the week was comparable to any major east-coast U.S. city. Unfortunately, because I'm a glutton for punishment and a creature of habit, it was one of the many reasons I enjoyed my time there (and the Spier store too...though the one in Toronto proper is gone now). Nonetheless, fantastic city, only a block of ice 3/4 of the year.
 

alkydrinker

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Adding to the convo a few comments back about modifications to the Neo cut, S&M posted the reply below in IG comments when someone asked if they lowered the gorge on the upcoming F/W Neo jackets:

No [we did not lower the gorge since last season]. We flattened the lapel to have a less negative belly. Makes the lapel look fuller and optically a bit lower.

Personally, I think the new lapels shown on the IG teasers are an improvement. I have never bought a Neo jacket bc they always looked a little too boldly italian dandy for my taste (classic ivy/Tailor Caid type look is my personal ideal). I read one ivy enthusiast describe the styleforum italian menswear aesthetic (which the S&M neo cut plays to IMO) as making men "look like a flower." That comment really resonated with me (no hate on anyone's preferences, I'm just trying to define and articulate my own preferences). But, I think removing the belly on the lapel removes a lot of the curvy, swoopy flower petal feel.
 
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DonRaphael

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Adding to the convo a few comments back about modifications to the Neo cut, S&M posted the reply below in IG comments when someone asked if they lowered the gorge on the upcoming F/W Neo jackets:

No [we did not lower the gorge since last season]. We flattened the lapel to have a less negative belly. Makes the lapel look fuller and optically a bit lower.

Personally, I think the new lapels shown on the IG teasers are an improvement. I have never bought a Neo jacket bc they always looked a little too boldly italian dandy for my taste (classic ivy/Tailor Caid type look is my personal ideal). I read one ivy enthusiast describe the styleforum italian menswear aesthetic (which the S&M neo cut plays to IMO) as making men "look like a flower." That comment really resonated with me (no hate on anyone's preferences, I'm just trying to define and articulate my own preferences). But, I think removing the belly on the lapel removes a lot of the curvy, swoopy flower petal feel.
Also three sleeve buttons instead of four for all SCs (and still four for suits).

I don't have a strong opinion about negative vs straight lapels as long as the gorge isn't raised. A optically lowered gorge is a positive in my book. I do however have a strong aversion against positive lapels.
 

JayDee90

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Also three sleeve buttons instead of four for all SCs (and still four for suits).

I don't have a strong opinion about negative vs straight lapels as long as the gorge isn't raised. A optically lowered gorge is a positive in my book. I do however have a strong aversion against positive lapels.
If positive here is in reference to a positive belly then I too agree, not a fan. Specifically for single breast jackets.
 
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DonRaphael

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If positive here is in reference to a positive belly than I too agree, not a fan. Specifically for single breast jackets.
Yes, it is. I usually refer to the matter at hand as convex, neutral and concave. But since negative was used initially I used positive as the opposite.
 

LongGoneDay

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Hey guys,

So, I am planing on placing my first order for a custom shirt. The first question I've stumbled across is how I shall measure my arm length. When I watch the YouTube video I see that the measurement is down to half of the hand.

I am used to giving my measurement to where my arm ends and my back of my hand begins. How did you guys do?

Any other tips regarding my first order that I should take into consideration is very much appriciated. Thanks!
 

Imperatores

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Hey guys,

So, I am planing on placing my first order for a custom shirt. The first question I've stumbled across is how I shall measure my arm length. When I watch the YouTube video I see that the measurement is down to half of the hand.

I am used to giving my measurement to where my arm ends and my back of my hand begins. How did you guys do?

Any other tips regarding my first order that I should take into consideration is very much appriciated. Thanks!
It can depend a little on what type of shirt you're getting and your own preferences. Dress shirts that are meant to be worn under a jacket typically have slightly longer sleeves (halfway down the hand) to avoid having them disappear up you jacket sleeve when moving around. On a more casual shirt you might want a slightly shorter sleeve for a cleaner look. I think the best way to do it is just to measure the sleeve on a shirt you're happy with. Measuring one of your own shirts is the way to go for online custom shirts in general, in my experience.

As a side note, I'd make sure to request a prewash of the fabric before cutting to help keep shrinkage to a minimum. Especially if you prefer a shorter sleeve. It's not very fun to end up with too short sleeves after a single wash.
 
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LongGoneDay

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It can depend a little on what type of shirt you're getting and your own preferences. Dress shirts that are meant to be worn under a jacket typically have slightly longer sleeves (halfway down the hand) to avoid having them disappear up you jacket sleeve when moving around. On a more casual shirt you might want a slightly shorter sleeve for a cleaner look. I think the best way to do it is just to measure the sleeve on a shirt you're happy with. Measuring one of your own shirts is the way to go for online custom shirts in general, in my experience.

As a side note, I'd make sure to request a prewash of the fabric before cutting to help keep shrinkage to a minimum. Especially if you prefer a shorter sleeve. It's not very fun to end up with too short sleeves after a single wash.
Thank you for the input. Good to know about the pre wash. :)
 

SmoothLefty

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Does anyone have pics in the wild of S & M's jeans? The reviews seem pretty good and I'm looking for something a bit of a higher rise and for whatever reason 501s don't fit me that well.
 

Viral

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Anyone own this? Would love to see real life pics before I order it……
E40BC4B2-0784-43FB-8BC6-166C7CEAC960.png
 

1st Step

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Anyone have these and are they lined at all?

$128 and or the $148 pair

Spier&Mackay-Sage Linen-JS-2809 (1)-550x550.jpg
 

marchello

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Sondrio cotton-linen trousers - do these run big or small? I understand them have a +- 1/2" tolerance and would like to know whether these trousers tend to be on the + or - side.
Interested as well...
 

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