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DonRaphael

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I’ve been waiting on one of those for so long I saved enough money to throw it at something far more expensive (Steed). I’ll finally be able to assess how Spier’s MTO stacks up against something more individualized.
Steed is several levels above. I'm confident you'll be very pleased. Please do share your experience.
 

ericgereghty

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Yes, very porous. They're considerably heavier. More casual looking due to the thicker fabric. The fresco holds a sharper crease. Here's a close up of the brown version from another affiliate vendor. It's more reminiscent of a mocklino than fresco due to the porous nature.
View attachment 1796346
Hmmm, will be curious to see how it stacks up. I thought the general consensus was that 4-ply was "better" due to softer hand but same (or at least mostly comparable) ability to hold a crease as fresco. TBD...will have no issue sticking with the "scratchier" Fresco/Fox Air, worst case scenario.
 

DonRaphael

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Hmmm, will be curious to see how it stacks up. I thought the general consensus was that 4-ply was "better" due to softer hand but same (or at least mostly comparable) ability to hold a crease as fresco. TBD...will have no issue sticking with the "scratchier" Fresco/Fox Air, worst case scenario.
Tbh, I don't mind the so called scratchiness of the fresco. I don't find it scratchy. The 4ply is softer, but I'm not sure I prefer it in every instance. It's all about context for me. Fresco looks sharper. 4ply, because of its softness, lends itself more suitable for more casual suits. Imo of course.
 

JayDee90

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Tbh, I don't mind the so called scratchiness of the fresco. I don't find it scratchy. The 4ply is softer, but I'm not sure I prefer it in every instance. It's all about context for me. Fresco looks sharper. 4ply, because of its softness, lends itself more suitable for more casual suits. Imo of course.
I was also expecting to be blown away by the 4 ply. In-person, it is not that I was necessarily underwhelmed but also would be perfectly fine with the mid and heavy weight fresco given the upcharge. It does seem to be like a more refined, soft version of the heavyweight fresco with similar level of porousness.
 

DonRaphael

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I was also expecting to be blown away by the 4 ply. In-person, it is not that I was necessarily underwhelmed but also would be perfectly fine with the mid and heavy weight fresco given the upcharge. It does seem to be like a more refined, soft version of the heavyweight fresco with similar level of porousness.
For odd trousers I prefer the 4ply. For (sharper) suits, I prefer fresco. But at 600 for a full canvas 4ply summer suit, I can't complain since summer suits can be more casual leaning.
 

ericgereghty

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Tbh, I don't mind the so called scratchiness of the fresco. I don't find it scratchy. The 4ply is softer, but I'm not sure I prefer it in every instance. It's all about context for me. Fresco looks sharper. 4ply, because of its softness, lends itself more suitable for more casual suits. Imo of course.
Also don't understand the scratchiness. Even the mohair blend fresco, which does undoubtedly feel a bit gritty, doesn't even rate as a mild annoyance for me. Flannel it ain't, but it isn't going to scare me off by any means.

Heck, if anything, the suboptimal hand (as in, not flannely soft) might work in my benefit, since I HATE people touching my clothes in public. Have batted away more hands attempting to touch my ties than I care to admit :rotflmao:
 
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DonRaphael

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Still irked that I wasn’t able to snag the full suit on either color, but grabbed a pair of the 4-ply charcoal pents. Will be curious to weigh them against my fresco.
Front is the so called 4ply charcoal. Back is the mid weight fresco 510248.

In the second pic is an array of mid weight fresco fabrics. As you can see, 510248 is a true mid grey. 510246 is very light, 510388 light, 510248 mid, 510249 dark, 520283 charcoal, 510250 dark charcoal.

As you can see, the 4ply is very similar to the mid grey 510248.
IMG_20220526_192352.jpg
IMG_20220526_192544.jpg



Edit: 4ply is less rigid/stiff/crisp compared to fresco is the way I tried to describe it before but couldn't find the words for it.
 
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ericgereghty

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Front is the so called 4ply charcoal. Back is the mid weight fresco 510248.

In the second pic is an array of mid weight fresco fabrics. As you can see, 510248 is a true mid grey. 510246 is very light, 510388 light, 510248 mid, 510249 dark, 520283 charcoal, 510250 dark charcoal.

As you can see, the 4ply is very similar to the mid grey 510248.
View attachment 1796420 View attachment 1796421


Edit: 4ply is less rigid/stiff/crisp compared to fresco is the way I tried to describe it before but couldn't find the words for it.
Oh wow, dramatically lighter. Good to know. Thanks for that.
 

JTrent82

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Took delivery of the E Thomas WSL summer herringbone tweed. I’ll admit, I’m on the fence about this one.
Is this really a WSL? The description says 80 silk 20 linen. I'd probably order this if it's a WSL.

edit: Please tell us how it breathes when you get a chance to test it out.
 

feliks

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I got the navy hopsack/silk/linen/cashmere (currently at the tailor’s getting the sleeves finished + waist nipped) and the fabric is great. Super breezy and has more subtle variations in color then the stock photos show.

This is my first S&M jacket but the fit is great, prefer it to SuSu’s havana fit which would prob be the closest comparison
 

shadyjay

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Hello Spier and Mackay experts, looking for some advice on a possible MTM black tuxedo as they don't have any OTR in stock. I am 5 foot 7 inches and 150 lbs.

1) Will likely go for peak labels and asked for a 9.5cm instead of their stock (I think it was 10cm). Is this an appropriate width or should I go narrower? (I saw some advice to go even 9 cm for someone bigger than me: (46) Tuxedo Advice for 5'11" 170lb guy | Styleforum)

2) This probably doesn't matter since it's black but asked for pick stitching on the collar and jacket bottom (not the lapels), any problems with that?

3) Cummerbund vs Evening Waistcoat? was going to get waistcoat originally. I think I also read somewhere that for a tux the waistcoat opening should be lower then for a suit waistcoat, should I ask for any specific adjustments to their stock waistcoat? Lapel or no lapel?

4) I was told that usually a waistcoat back uses the same color lining as the suit jacket lining, but that seems a bit flashy if I got a colored lining for the jacket. Is it normal to match them if I get the navy or burgundy lining?

5) I'm just reading that belts are not usually worn with tuxedos, but I wasn't told that when picking the option. So I shouldn't get belt loops then?

6) I will be wearing a flower, should I get a button hole in the lapel?

Thanks for any help!
 
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stubbsj20

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I am looking to get some fit feedback on the this 40R contemporary Navy Hopsack E. Thomas sports coat. The front looks pretty good and the sleeve pitch is clean. The back however does not look great... Since the jacket is unlined and I have not removed the stitching on the vents, the jacket is catching at my lower back (jeans are also not helping). I also have a fair amount of "rippling" between the shoulder blades (see side shot photo). I am not sure how much of this can be tailored/corrected? Would it be worth trying the slim fit or a different size (40R contemporary is the only jacket I have tried on from S&M)? I appreciate any feedback people are willing to offer.
 

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