SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[FlyingHorker]

Looks ok to me.

I can't give you an accurate answer because all these are different angles and with different pants.

The first set of pictures was higher above the shoulders with the head cut off.

This one is a lower angle with the shoulders and head cut off.

 

[Imperatores]

The jacket looks too short in the body and sleeves for you.

I see further posts about pulling up your trousers, but that is not the issue, judging by where the jacket hits your hand, and other indicators, it is too short.

Here is a good article and video about jacket length

Permanent Style

Video: How long should a jacket be?

www.permanentstyle.com

Agreed, although it can be deceptive to judge jacket length based on where it hits your hand. Arm length can vary greatly in relation to the rest of the body. It definitely looks too short to me regardless, though.

Reasonable people may differ, but I think "cover the butt" trumps "bisect the body perfectly".

Yes. Completely covering the seat is important because it cleans up the lines and creates a much more cohesive and visually attractive silhouette. If the jacket ends above your crotch it breaks up the lines and makes you look shorter and bulkier. It also tends to emphasize your hips/butt and give you a more feminine body shape.

I do appreciate the feedback and people keeping it respectful. I'm pretty new to more professional style and trying to learn as I go.

Your suit fits much better than the vast majority of inexperienced guys seeking fit advice on here (and quite a few regular posters as well, it must be said). It's just that jacket length is a pretty big deal because it's so important to the overall proportions and silhouette. Proportions are at the very core of what makes a suit or a jacket look good to begin with, so it's worth obsessing over it.

Here it is with different shirt and pants. I can see it being about half an inch short on the length and quarter inch of sleeve needing let out, but the regular is 1.5" longer and when I've tried ones on in stores with the same body length they seemed way too long. I dunno.

Yeah, that's a little bit too short imo. I wonder if part of the reason why you felt that the SuSu's in R was too long is that they tend to have more closed quarters. The open quarters of the Neo cut in particular can help a lot in allowing your jacket to be long enough without feeling like there's too much fabric in the front. To get a better feel of the overall proportions, you should try on the jacket while wearing dress shoes. That little bit of extra leg length can make all the difference.

The Neo cut in 38S contemporary is 1 cm longer than the regular cut in 38S. That should be pretty close to ideal, I'd say. Still on the short side, but perfectly acceptable outside of the most conservative circles.

 

[tmckay2]

Looks ok to me.

I can't give you an accurate answer because all these are different angles and with different pants.

The first set of pictures was higher above the shoulders with the head cut off.

This one is a lower angle with the shoulders and head cut off.

That's a fair point. My wife was finally free to take some for me.

 

[tmckay2]

Agreed, although it can be deceptive to judge jacket length based on where it hits your hand. Arm length can vary greatly in relation to the rest of the body. It definitely looks too short to me regardless, though.



Yes. Completely covering the seat is important because it cleans up the lines and creates a much more cohesive and visually attractive silhouette. If the jacket ends above your crotch it breaks up the lines and makes you look shorter and bulkier. It also tends to emphasize your hips/butt and give you a more feminine body shape.



Your suit fits much better than the vast majority of inexperienced guys seeking fit advice on here (and quite a few regular posters as well, it must be said). It's just that jacket length is a pretty big deal because it's so important to the overall proportions and silhouette. Proportions are at the very core of what makes a suit or a jacket look good to begin with, so it's worth obsessing over it.



Yeah, that's a little bit too short imo. I wonder if part of the reason why you felt that the SuSu's in R was too long is that they tend to have more closed quarters. The open quarters of the Neo cut in particular can help a lot in allowing your jacket to be long enough without feeling like there's too much fabric in the front. To get a better feel of the overall proportions, you should try on the jacket while wearing dress shoes. That little bit of extra leg length can make all the difference.

The Neo cut in 38S contemporary is 1 cm longer than the regular cut in 38S. That should be pretty close to ideal, I'd say. Still on the short side, but perfectly acceptable outside of the most conservative circles.

That's a really good point on the shoes angle, I hadn't considered that. I wouldn't mind changing this one for a neo but the dark gray I need for more formal wear doesn't come as neo cut. I'd have to consider an alternative. Not against it but just something to mull over.

 

[FlyingHorker]

That's a fair point. My wife was finally free to take some for me.

Thanks, these are great.

Back fit is clean as hell, and I actually dig the shorter sleeve length.

I would personally go for a longer size to get a longer body length, and then get the sleeves shortened.

 

[NikG]

Style question. Do you think it will be 'acceptable' to go without cuffs for S&M's reverse single pleat high-rise trousers?

I am 6' 1" (185cm) tall, but my inseam is only 30". When I told my tailor I wanted a 2" cuff, he said:

1. it won't match well with the single reverse pleat for this pants
2. My proportion is not ideal for a 2" cuff and it will make me look bottom heavy.
3. He suggested a half break hem instead.

I'm quite new to classical menswear and this is my first venture into high-rise/pleated pants. So I'm ready for a good lecturing.

Mate, you’ll be fine with 2”!!

I’m 6’1” and take a 32” inseam and do a 2” cuff with slight break and it looks great imo. Have a couple of pairs from another brand with a 1.5” cuff and no break, but it just doesn’t look as good.

Definitely go with 2”. Will 100% regret going smaller, but if you must then 1.5” smallest, anything less just doesn’t look right.

As a general rule I cuff all my pleated trousers and plain hem my flat front ones. A lot of people like to cuff flat fronts, but I’m personally not a fan of the look. Plain hem on pleated looks a bit strange as well imo.

Ultimately you do you. Whatever works for you and what you like then that’s what you should go with.

 

[Imperatores]

That's a fair point. My wife was finally free to take some for me.

That looks much better. 1 cm added to the body length would make this a genuinely excellent fit for RTW, in my view. Super clean fit in the back, while having just enough room in the chest to allow for some great drape. You mentioned wanting a slightly slimmer waist earlier, but there's no need for that whatsoever. A well cut jacket can have a comfortable amount of room at the waist without sacrificing anything in terms of look. Keep in mind that a tie would add a bit of bulk as well. I also agree with @FlyingHorker about the sleeve length, as long as the shirt underneath isn't any longer than this.

 

[tmckay2]

That looks much better. 1 cm added to the body length would make this a genuinely excellent fit for RTW, in my view. Super clean fit in the back, while having just enough room in the chest to allow for some great drape. You mentioned wanting a slightly slimmer waist earlier, but there's no need for that whatsoever. A well cut jacket can have a comfortable amount of room at the waist without sacrificing anything in terms of look. Keep in mind that a tie would add a bit of bulk as well. I also agree with @FlyingHorker about the sleeve length, as long as the shirt underneath isn't any longer than this.

I agree the 1cm would be great. I can exchange this one for same material but Neo cut which in theory should give me that. Then I would just have to figure out what to do for the more dressy suit since I wanted a dark gray or charcoal and don't see that in Neo cut. Appreciate all the feedback.

 

[Imperatores]

I agree the 1cm would be great. I can exchange this one for same material but Neo cut which in theory should give me that. Then I would just have to figure out what to do for the more dressy suit since I wanted a dark gray or charcoal and don't see that in Neo cut. Appreciate all the feedback.

Hopefully you don't get unlucky with production tolerances when exchanging. You could always try MTO for a charcoal suit, if you don't mind the wait. That would allow you to dial in the perfect sleeve and body length as well.

 

[Stylewords]

Mate, you’ll be fine with 2”!!

I’m 6’1” and take a 32” inseam and do a 2” cuff with slight break and it looks great imo. Have a couple of pairs from another brand with a 1.5” cuff and no break, but it just doesn’t look as good.

Definitely go with 2”. Will 100% regret going smaller, but if you must then 1.5” smallest, anything less just doesn’t look right.

As a general rule I cuff all my pleated trousers and plain hem my flat front ones. A lot of people like to cuff flat fronts, but I’m personally not a fan of the look. Plain hem on pleated looks a bit strange as well imo.

Ultimately you do you. Whatever works for you and what you like then that’s what you should go with.

But the difference is that his legs are shorter than yours at the same height. Cuffs make his legs look even shorter.

 

[araziza]

Is the store still open by appointment only, or is it taking walk ins now?

 

[captaincapn]

Hey fellas! Long time lurker, first time poster.

I've been trying to make a return to Spier for a few days, but emailing to no avail. Any advice?

 

[Riva]

Reasonable people may differ, but I think "cover the butt" trumps "bisect the body perfectly".

Old school thinking. Doesn't work when a guy has short legs. Today is fine to not cover the butt unless you're going to use the jacket strictly for white collar work. Shorter jackets are much more convenient and cleaner seeing that we don't dry clean them every week it's a major plus.

 

[1st Step]

Hey fellas! Long time lurker, first time poster.

I've been trying to make a return to Spier for a few days, but emailing to no avail. Any advice?

Be Patience, They know you're there, SALE! First Things, First...

 

[1st Step]

Old school thinking. Doesn't work when a guy has short legs. Today is fine to not cover the butt unless you're going to use the jacket strictly for white collar work. Shorter jackets are much more convenient and cleaner seeing that we don't dry clean them every week it's a major plus.

Riva, Really!

So, You Get Too Show Your Ass Because You're Not Dry Cleaning!