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SteveMc

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Lost track of the thread over the weekend, but did see someone asking about the denim. This is the 2-year wash in 31 contemp. I took the same size as the 5-pocket cord.
This is a decent pair of denim, straight fit and a bit higher rise than what you normally find now.
The most important aspect, IMO, is the fit - not too tight, but also not roomy.

1635065452603.jpg
 

Journeyman

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I've put most of my dress shoes for sale and cannot fathom why in today's environment people are still willing to put up with very uncomfortable hard shoes for the sake of looking formal. Nowadays you get options like memory foam inner sole and softer rubber outsole. Then seeing pics of young businessmen at the grand opening of their multi billion $ projects in sportjacket and white sneakers made me realize traditional dress shoes are finally irrelevant.
I'm lagging behind in this thread, so please forgive the late response to this comment.

I think that there are a few main reasons why more people are wearing sneakers or "hybrid" shoes nowadays:
- Style, as we know, is much more casual nowadays and so sneakers or hybrids are a part of that casualisation of menswear;
- Sneakers require less fitting to be comfortable than dress shoes - they're inherently more cushioned and typically softer and less form-fitting than dress shoes and so they stand a higher chance of being more comfortable for your average person on the street; and
- Most people in shoe shops know nothing about properly sizing and fitting shoes nowadays and so when the average person goes into a shoe store, they're not going to have someone think about the shape of their feet, what sort of last will fit their particular foot shape and so on. They're going to be presented with the latest pair of trendy shoes (double monks etc) in a couple of different sizes and that's all the help they'll usually get.

I have some dress shoes that are extremely comfortable and I can walk kilometres in them without any issues, because the last fits my feet really well and they're sized properly. I have other dress shoes that just don't fit me as well - they're a bit too tight over the top of my foot (as I have high insteps) or they're a bit too narrow and pinch my little toe or something like that.

A well-made, well-fitted pair of dress shoes will be really comfortable to wear, absent any serious issues with a person's feet. The problem is that most people don't know what a well-fitting pair of dress shoes is actually like. I don't say that as a snob, in any way, shape or form. I say that as a statement of fact, because the vast majority of salespeople and customers simply don't know how to properly fit dress shoes nowadays.
 

emiratiAL

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I'm lagging behind in this thread, so please forgive the late response to this comment.

I think that there are a few main reasons why more people are wearing sneakers or "hybrid" shoes nowadays:
- Style, as we know, is much more casual nowadays and so sneakers or hybrids are a part of that casualisation of menswear;
- Sneakers require less fitting to be comfortable than dress shoes - they're inherently more cushioned and typically softer and less form-fitting than dress shoes and so they stand a higher chance of being more comfortable for your average person on the street; and
- Most people in shoe shops know nothing about properly sizing and fitting shoes nowadays and so when the average person goes into a shoe store, they're not going to have someone think about the shape of their feet, what sort of last will fit their particular foot shape and so on. They're going to be presented with the latest pair of trendy shoes (double monks etc) in a couple of different sizes and that's all the help they'll usually get.
Those are good points, but I wonder to what extent it's a trend being pushed by manufacturers?

Any luxury brand can now turn out a generic looking low-profile sneaker - made in some middle income country that carries just enough gravitas to convince the customer that the brands quality isn't being completely compromised - and charge $500+ for the pleasure.

I can't be the only one looking at those ugly Gucci sneakers and pondering the % profit on each pair?

If I'm being less cynical about the whole thing, then I think it's quite a clever move in expanding their product line into a real mass market item, compared to to turning out dress shoes that only a limited segment of society regularly wear and invest serious money in.
 

milktoast

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c.bisesar

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Appreciate the reply; thank you. Did you happen to size up or purchase your regular jacket size?
Yes, I wear a 40R slim and purchased the jacket in a 40R (contemporary, which I believe is the only option.)

Man, I quite like the look of a trench coat in a vacuum, but all of the unfortunate connotations are hard to get past. Everything from Inspector Gadget to cringy mall ninjas or weirdos flashing you in the park.
Around 5-6 years ago I was looking at a trench coat style jacket that came in blue and brown, and I remember polling my coworkers to see which they liked more. It was pretty split with a slight advantage for brown, however one person pointed out it kind of looked like the jackets that flashers would wear and suddenly that spread like wildfire and I ended up getting the blue. To this day I regret not getting the brown one 🤣
 

Huxley

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Glad to have helped! I don't think you'll regret it. In terms of size, since you'll be wearing it mostly with suits, it's a tough call. I definitely not regret going with my usual size, since I'll mostly be wearing it with sweaters and prefer the trim look (I did try it on with a SC and it works, but I don't know how comfortable it'd be to wear it like that all day long). Also, whatever drawback the fitted look might entail in terms of mobility is eliminated by the gusset in the back. The problem with going up a size is that you might lose the trim look; in my case, my worry was the shoulders, since I'm usually 18 inches in SC (the neo cut, which has 18.3, is my limit), and the 40 already had 18.7 shoulders. I mention this because I already have a (larger fitting) cashmere db charcoal coat that I use almost exclusively for suits, because it's about 19 inches in the shoulders. It fits more comfortably with suits, but doesn't look that good with sweaters. Then again, the issue with that coat is the structure, and more specifically the shoulder padding; whereas the polos, like most of SM suits, has very light padding. In addition to looking fabulous (more comfortable, and better for popping the collar), I think that the light padding makes the excess shoulder fabric look better, since the seam doesn't hang too far from the shoulder. But I believe that regarding this specific situation you'd be better informed by others who have gone the larger size route. The oversize silhouette is back in vogue though, so the throwback look could also be successful. I'm sure the coat will look spectacular anyway.
Again, your thought out reply is much appreciated.

I definitely have an aversion to losing the trim look and will likely order in my regular size. I will only be wearing the coat to/from work so, fortunately, it is not like I would be in it all day. Plus, I wouldn’t want to detract from the trim look if/when I do wear it in a more casual context.

I have more or less made up my mind. Will be sure to post pics when it comes in. Thanks again for your help!
 

FlyingHorker

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I'm not going to go out on any limbs to "roast" SM, but IIRC the sack style in general was originally popular amongst boys 100+ years ago because they were cheaper and easier to produce, perfect for someone who will only be able to wear it briefly before outgrowing it. The shapeless silhouette seems to be great at hiding one's masculinity and turning everyone into a dumpy tube. I appreciate the history behind it but I don't really get why it's popular amongst fully-growed-up men who didn't actually have this stuff imprinted upon them as boys.

I think everyone in that list of pictures would look better with a proper jacket.




Busted...I'm all about hypersexualizing the male body in a way that hasn't been en vogue since the end of classical Greece because what a shame it would be to grow fat and old without ever flaunting your body even once, so the asexuality that is the heart of trad does nothing for me. That's just me though (but I've been known to be right about things every once in a few blue moons).
ShetlandSweater got me thinking beyond just silhouette and fit, it definitely references that trad aesthetic you mentioned. Easy going, casual, not out of place. The more fusty cousin of the neo style that everyone here loves.

I had to think more on what might work with the sack cut. I'm thinking a brown corduroy suit. Definitely not sexy, but cozy.



This is bespoke from Taylor Caid, but everything looks in sync here to me. I like the narrower lapels and smaller notch, and the pockets look perfect.
 

1st Step

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Easier to see in person, but it's very odd.

View attachment 1691035 View attachment 1691036
Let Me Just Say, If She Can See That, This Close, You Have Some Explaining To Do!

Here, I Have A Custom S$M Shirt, With The Same Marking? I Didn't Find Until I Went Looking, I'll Have To Focus On Value! This Is Really A Non-Issue. I Have A Shirt That Sold For (Discounted) 4X S$M, And Can't Wear A Tie With Its Collar And The Fit, It's Not As Good...

Screenshot_20211024-144843_Photo Editor.jpg


Non-Issue For Me!
20211024_144759.jpg


Good Luck,

I'm Going To Give You To Much To Focus On, Including The Tie That Covers It...

Edit; I Will Not Use An Eraser On This! :fonz:
 
Last edited:

1st Step

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Lost track of the thread over the weekend, but did see someone asking about the denim. This is the 2-year wash in 31 contemp. I took the same size as the 5-pocket cord.
This is a decent pair of denim, straight fit and a bit higher rise than what you normally find now.
The most important aspect, IMO, is the fit - not too tight, but also not roomy.

View attachment 1691127
I May Have Too Look At These! :fistbump:
 

ClothGolem

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Hi,


I hope that this is the appropriate thread this post. Otherwise, please correct me.


I was wandering if anyone else who owns a S&M (half-canvas) fresco jacket has suffered from fussing dissolution (“bubbling”).

In the past half year since I purchased it, I wore my navy fresco suit once a week, and had to dry-clean it twice due to baby vomit.


On a different topic, I am considering purchasing the camelhair DB SC as an outerwear piece for mild winter days (60°F+). The plan is to wear it over a buttoned shirt and chinos/jeans. In my mind I compare this usage with the commonly worn fleece jacket.

To those who own one, how durable is it? Does it wrinkle easily? How does it respond to humidity and light rain?
 

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