• Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Threads of Apollo We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Threads of Apollo, a sustainable leather goods company based out of Vancouver, BC, Canada, making premium, made-to-order, water-repellent leather jackets and gloves. .Please help me give them a warm welcome in their new thread.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Sockett&Bones

Member
Joined
May 23, 2020
Messages
12
Reaction score
9
For those who've ordered MTO sport coats...

Did you send in a well-fitting sport coat you already owned so Spier could nail the measurements or did you enter the measurements online yourself Measurements are easy enough to do on a shirt but I'm apprehensive about it with a sport coat, especially when it comes to the shoulders.

I've thrifted so many vintage Ivy/natural shoulder sport coats over the years and despite the measurements being on point for whatever reason the shoulders didn't sit quite right (I'm probably batting below the Mendonza line when it comes eBay over the last 15 years; I return far more than I keep). Armhole height? Maybe a sliver of padding that screwed up things? I often find when the shoulders fit perfectly it's too tight across the back. If I have ample room across the back, the shoulders are a little too big. I have two 1960s Brooks Brothers tweed sport coats that fit absolutely perfectly outside of the body being a bit short. The remaining ten or so sport coats in my closet don't fit as well as I'd like. The last thing I want is to go through the MTO process and find the shoulders don't fit/sit perfectly.

I have asked my tailor if he'd measure me but he refuses to do that for his customers; he used to and some folks would come back to him and want him to cover the cost for redoing an MTO job based on his measurements that didn't workout from another provider. Can't fault him for that decision.

@spiermackay Rick, do a lot of your customers who aren't local send you sport coats for measurements? I know you offer (or least used to) a one-time do-over for new custom shirt customers but obviously the cost to redo a sport coat is significantly higher.
I recommend you find the right size from the OTR selection then from there, make the adjustments on your MTO. The adjustments are actually very limited so you'll be keeping most of the S&M signature shape/style. If you don't find anything that works OTR, then I highly doubt you'll be able to make something custom that fits 10/10.
 

SoundBrewer

Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2017
Messages
23
Reaction score
45
Working on new T-shirts. First go was underwhelming. Socks at a good price require massive quantity buys. Looking into that too, but it isn't a priority at the moment.

We do have underwear coming. Really great Cotton/Modal blend. Very comfortable. $18
T-shirts - I really would love a light grey tshirt similar or better quality to the first run BUT with a deeper v neck, so I can use them as undershirts without them showing. I typically wear your Oxford shirts with the top two button undone. I realize this is very specific, but wanted to put it out there in case anyone else is looking for something similar.

Underwear - sounds great.
 

anonymouz

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
1,091
Reaction score
315
@spiermackay Hi Rick, any chance you can stock an ecru/brown POW linen fabric for next summer? Drakes last summer and Natalino this summer are carrying it but I much prefer the neopolitan cut from Spier.

I like how the micro check is a genuine houndstooth, and the color is a perfect summer shade.


Pretty please?
You just missed the Sondio from last S/S
 

XxLogo

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 5, 2020
Messages
1,664
Reaction score
1,558
T-shirts - I really would love a light grey tshirt similar or better quality to the first run BUT with a deeper v neck, so I can use them as undershirts without them showing. I typically wear your Oxford shirts with the top two button undone. I realize this is very specific, but wanted to put it out there in case anyone else is looking for something similar.

Underwear - sounds great.
T shirts are a bit thick to wear as undershirts, especially in the summer. Try Uniqlo Airism if you want a deep V undershirt.
Unless that’s something else Rick can make better 😂
 

James1051

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2013
Messages
6,526
Reaction score
21,842
Working on new T-shirts. First go was underwhelming.
T-shirts - I really would love a light grey tshirt similar or better quality to the first run BUT with a deeper v neck, so I can use them as undershirts without them showing. I typically wear your Oxford shirts with the top two button undone. I realize this is very specific, but wanted to put it out there in case anyone else is looking for something similar.
I also like V neck Ts and thought the V on the last batch could be a bit deeper. I bought about 10 of them when they were reduced, LOL. My only gripe about them is that the rib collar doesn't hold its shape for long.
 

James1051

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2013
Messages
6,526
Reaction score
21,842
I've been eyeballing that Minnis Black & White POW Fresco MTO fabric, for a suit. For a sport jacket its a no brainer, but having trouble imagining whether it works as a suit. Anybody seen a fabric like this as a suit? Will it just appear as another gray suit from a distance, or will it be perceived as black and white, which is what I would want. Thoughts? @spiermackay ?
 

DonRaphael

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
2,448
Reaction score
2,270
I've been eyeballing that Minnis Black & White POW Fresco MTO fabric, for a suit. For a sport jacket its a no brainer, but having trouble imagining whether it works as a suit. Anybody seen a fabric like this as a suit? Will it just appear as another gray suit from a distance, or will it be perceived as black and white, which is what I would want. Thoughts? @spiermackay ?
I find it hard to determine the scale of the pattern. Have you been able to? It's only a pic of the fabric alone.
 

DonRaphael

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
2,448
Reaction score
2,270
Agree. I can’t tell
Based on that, I'm not even sure that it'd make a good SC. The pattern might just be to small for that, which would in fact make a better suit. It's a Minnis stock photo, so I'm fairly sure S&M won't be able to help either.

I fell into a trap like this last fall. Ordered a dark brown VBC fabric for a MTO jacket. The herringbone pattern looked large in scale and the fabric looked rather dry and cool. Upon arrival, it was apparent the pattern was actually smaller than I had envisioned (not small enough for it to make a perfect conservative suit, and not large enough to be a perfect SC) and the fabric itself had some sheen to it. It does work as a SC, but it's neither perfect nor what I was looking for 100 %. Am now considering adding a pair of trousers to make it a somewhat casual suit (being brown helps).
 

SmoothLefty

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2012
Messages
206
Reaction score
366
I recommend you find the right size from the OTR selection then from there, make the adjustments on your MTO. The adjustments are actually very limited so you'll be keeping most of the S&M signature shape/style. If you don't find anything that works OTR, then I highly doubt you'll be able to make something custom that fits 10/10.
That's disappointing as none of the OTR options are large enough. I'm a 45 extra long. I tried a 44L three years ago and it was too small in every regard.

EDIT: apparently you can go up to much larger sizes. Max length with a 45 is 34.3" which should work.

Capture.JPG
 
Last edited:

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Styleforum x S.E.H Kelly Balmacaan: Choose the Fabric

  • standard 5 — light and dark brown

    Votes: 8 6.5%
  • standard 7 — dark brown and charcoal

    Votes: 17 13.7%
  • wide 1 — charcoal and blue-grey

    Votes: 7 5.6%
  • wide 3 — barley and brown

    Votes: 5 4.0%
  • wide 5 — charcoal and dark navy

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • wide 6 — charcoal and black

    Votes: 3 2.4%
  • wide 7 — dark green and black

    Votes: 29 23.4%
  • wide 8 — malt and dark brown

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • wide 9 — blue-grey and charcoal

    Votes: 35 28.2%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
458,445
Messages
9,944,745
Members
207,181
Latest member
Dapper_Dan
Top