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Stylewords

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Working on adding MTO chinos. Hope to have that ready to go by the end of Summer. Factory and fabric source for the chinos is different, so setting up the program is extra work.
That's fantastic. We are talking casual cut, (relatively) thick, non-sheen chinos, right?
 

Jason12

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on the mention of trench coats, some hooded water-resistant coats would be a nice idea too. Maybe in the spirit of the coherence Charles like a mid-length cotton hunting jacket with the removable hood or like the ruiz, a knee-length hooded coat made out of synthetic or wool/synthetic fabric (like parka shell but no down filling)
 

SmoothLefty

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Most of these changes should be fairly easy to integrate. Let me see what we can do. We've already sampled an undarted jacket almost a year ago, but with everything going on, I didn't do much with it. lol. Didn't realize there was much interest in it.
That's exciting. Looking forward to seeing what comes of it!
 

alkydrinker

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Swelled edges can be requested in the notes. But It really only works on thicker fabrics like tweeds/flannels to get a good raised effect. Otherwise, it just looks a bit flat. Example if it's done on a worsted or serge, you get the stitch detail, but the "swell" is almost non-existant.
Wow, my mind is blown 🎆. Thank you for sharing this.

On the one hand, I'm more than a little sad that I didn't t try requesting swelled edges on my last MTO tweed (I just assumed it wasn't available).

However, this brings a whole new realm of possibilities for me ...thinking about finally getting that perfect black and white herringbone tweed and then an ivy-looking fine whale corduroy SC with triple patch swelled pockets.
 

alkydrinker

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Most of these changes should be fairly easy to integrate. Let me see what we can do. We've already sampled an undarted jacket almost a year ago, but with everything going on, I didn't do much with it. lol. Didn't realize there was much interest in it.
You might be surprised with the number of customers who will come out of the woodwork for an undarted jacket. It's a quiet, but very enthusiastic collection of guys in both the US and the UK who are into it.
 

alkydrinker

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@spiermackay can lapped seams be requested in MTO as well? I would also be very interested in more ivy style options
oh good call...I was conflating swelled edge & lapped seams as one feature.

swelled edge = stitching ~ 1/4" from the EDGE of the lapel
lapped seam = added line of stitching along pockets, and possibly other seams like center back seam.

I'd love to get clarity on this as well.
 

SmoothLefty

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You might be surprised with the number of customers who will come out of the woodwork for an undarted jacket. It's a quiet, but very enthusiastic collection of guys in both the US and the UK who are into it.
Agreed. Dare I say even offering it as an RTW option might be a good idea, but I don't know the business side of menswear to that extent. But as I said before, a Spier MTO sport coat with all of the Ivy details is still less expensive than J. Press, O'Connell's, Sid Mashburn, etc (and even contemporary J. Press doesn't get the natural shoulder just right IMO). There aren't a ton of purveyors of the style left out there but it has an enthusiastic group of disciples.
 
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Rafsan

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Does somebody have pics of the moss green suit in the wild?
Here it is under just morning ambient light, taken with my phone. Added in bottle green for comparison too. The non-mannequin photos on the site are pretty accurate, I think my phone is adding some gray tone to it.
 

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apd90700

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As an OTR offering? That wouldn't be efficient. A good tailor can narrow a pant. I just got an email today asking if we plan on making the pant hem WIDER, so.....Can't please everyone OTR.
Why not offer tailoring of an additional $-- for waist adjustments :)? That way the pants arrive without additional tailoring needed.

Also, are we to presume if pants don't mention side adjusters that they'll come with belt loops? Seeing some suits mention flat front, but neither side adjusters or belt loops.
 

Betelgeuse

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Here it is under just morning ambient light, taken with my phone. Added in bottle green for comparison too. The non-mannequin photos on the site are pretty accurate, I think my phone is adding some gray tone to it.
Looks good! Would you wear the bottle green jacket with the moss green trousers as separates?
 

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