SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[spiermackay]

Will chinos/quest cotton type trousers ever come in MTO options? I have funny proportions (there isn't a size 29 in OTW & I seem to fit 28 in waist and 30 in hips). Also I remember hearing last year rumors of trench coats and/or leather jackets. Were these COVID casualties/delays or maybe scrapped ideas?

Working on adding MTO chinos. Hope to have that ready to go by the end of Summer. Factory and fabric source for the chinos is different, so setting up the program is extra work.

Quest cottons should be available now in MTO.

Trench coat, we finally hope to have early Fall. We had to switch factories and start sampling from scratch, add in Covid and it's easy to see where the delay is. But the samples have come out great. Nice and full cut, long length, removable liner and all traditional details, including flap pockets. Fabric is 100% water resistant cotton from Larusmiani. Fingers crossed.

 

[spiermackay]

Since we're getting REALLY awesome answers and help now:
Do we know if Fabric 2458R 180/3 (Style 22152-2F1H1) is a match for any of the MTO sportcoat fabrics? It's the Guabello blue mix texture from FW-19.

No, doesn't look like we have that cloth available in MTO. Sorry.

 

[James1051]

Trench coat, we finally hope to have early Fall. We had to switch factories and start sampling from scratch, add in Covid and it's easy to see where the delay is. But the samples have come out great. Nice and full cut, long length, removable liner and all traditional details, including flap pockets. Fabric is 100% water resistant cotton from Larusmiani. Fingers crossed.

this is great news, especially the "full cut, long length" part. Looking forward to that drop!
I have two old trenches, both of which need to be retired.

 

[spiermackay]

Yes, though as orangefury mentioned I don't know how well a true sack would sell. There are still a ton of Ivy enthusiasts out there and your MTO program is less expansive than OTR stuff at O'Connell's or J. Press. You also offer a ton of fun tweeds that go well with Ivy's casual nature. I don't know how difficult it is for the MTO program to offer darted vs undarted but the other details...

• 3/2 closure: bottom button aligns horizontally with the top of the patch/flap pockets: you already offer this with the Neo cut.
• 3.5" notch lapels: already offered based on alkydrinker's MTO.
• Swelled edges/lapped seams: I can't tell on alkydrinker's coat if it has swelled edges but I think it does. Lapped seams may be a pain, not sure.
• Triple patch pockets with patch & flap pockets at the hip: I see you already offer the latter, again based on alkydrinker's coat. I imagine a patch pocket at the chest isn't a big deal.
• Hook vent: the one Ivy detail I never cared about, not sure it'd actually prevent any Ivy fans from ordering MTO. I'd assume this would also be a pain.

Again, not super different from the Neo cut but narrower lapels, swelled edges, lapped seams, patch/flap pockets. An option for darted/undarted would be the icing on the cake, though I'm sure not having a sack/undarted option would be a dealbreaker for some as it's one of Ivy's defining characteristics.

What alkydrinker was able to order is pretty darn close but the fact that it's missing some key details--and I can only speak for myself--is why I haven't ordered any MTO sportcoats. I'd be all over a grey herringbone tweed and a blue seersucker in an Ivy template. Corduroy, fun tweeds. It'd be a problem for my bank account.

Most of these changes should be fairly easy to integrate. Let me see what we can do. We've already sampled an undarted jacket almost a year ago, but with everything going on, I didn't do much with it. lol. Didn't realize there was much interest in it.

 

[spiermackay]

Their Filarte is made in China cloth?

I would assume so. Many of the fabrics are very recognizable.

 

[spiermackay]

@spiermackay How do the new cotton-linen blend trousers compare with the quest cotton in terms of wrinkles/crease? and better fabric for warmer weathers?

Very different. The quest cotton is a highly polished, dress trouser.

Both will wrinkle and crease. Both good for warm weather. Just different purpose. Quest cotton, more dressy/formal. The Cotton/Linen is much more casual.

 

[spiermackay]

@SmoothLefty - FYI, if you go into S&M's custom jacket options, you can do triple patch pockets and then put flaps on the hip pockets by request. (I simply chose to not do a chest patch pocket on my green tweed example.)

But otherwise, to reiterate on SmoothLefty's post and sum up what I believe the key missing ivy features are:

1. Swelled edges/lapped seams
2. Center rear hook vent

Regarding undarted vs darted: I concur with smoothlefty that an undarted front is not usually a priority for most (and I bet it would be a big undertaking to develop). There are tons of vintage Brooks Brothers & Southwick examples with all the ivy features - but WITH front darts - and most ivy fans are more than happy to wear them. As an aside, Sid Mashburn does an undarted sack where the cut has been allegedly engineered to look contemporary - no idea how well those jackets sell.

Below is a description of the swelled edge/lapped seam feature (from http://www.ivy-style.com/the-swelled-edge-a-quarter-inch-of-distinction.html)

View attachment 1592834


And, swelled/lapped seams again on some pockets and swelled edge stitching on lapels:
View attachment 1592836

Swelled edges can be requested in the notes. But It really only works on thicker fabrics like tweeds/flannels to get a good raised effect. Otherwise, it just looks a bit flat. Example if it's done on a worsted or serge, you get the stitch detail, but the "swell" is almost non-existant.

 

[spiermackay]

@spiermackay
Will the new navy seersucker match that of the one two(?) years ago?

Same colour. Different lot, so not 100% Match.

 

[spiermackay]

Any chambray shirts coming out? Like the red chambray rtw mentioned awhile back?

There is a Red Chambray Linen Workshirt on the way.

 

[motorchang]

Very different. The quest cotton is a highly polished, dress trouser.

Both will wrinkle and crease. Both good for warm weather. Just different purpose. Quest cotton, more dressy/formal. The Cotton/Linen is much more casual.

Any plan to release high rise version of cotton/linen?

 

[spiermackay]

@spiermackay -- How about offering different pant width in the RTW suits. I'm a 38S jacket but pants are 31 width, so the 32 width even if inseam adjusted by S&M tailoring would be too wide.

As an OTR offering? That wouldn't be efficient. A good tailor can narrow a pant. I just got an email today asking if we plan on making the pant hem WIDER, so.....Can't please everyone OTR.

 

[spiermackay]

Has anyone else copped the Fox Air Tobacco Brown trousers? I just received mine and am struggling to realize how versatile these can truly be as odd trousers.

They're definitely a darker shade of brown than perhaps I anticipated, so trying to figure out what color loafers and sportcoats would pair best in the Texas heat has me drawing blanks.

Really? They are a warm tobacco and work really well as an odd trouser. Chocolate/Darker browns shoes work well. Even Black loafers would be sharp. Jackets. All over the place. Blues, Greens, Creams all would be good pairings.

 

[spiermackay]

I really like the richness of the Fox Air brown trousers. I think the color is quite versatile. I imagine it would pair well with my sportcoats below and dark brown suede loafers. Now I wish I had bought the full suit lol.

View attachment 1593436

This shot is fantastic!

 

[orange fury]

Working on adding MTO chinos. Hope to have that ready to go by the end of Summer. Factory and fabric source for the chinos is different, so setting up the program is extra work.

Quest cottons should be available now in MTO.

Trench coat, we finally hope to have early Fall. We had to switch factories and start sampling from scratch, add in Covid and it's easy to see where the delay is. But the samples have come out great. Nice and full cut, long length, removable liner and all traditional details, including flap pockets. Fabric is 100% water resistant cotton from Larusmiani. Fingers crossed.

Double breasted, belted, and in tan? That would be an instant buy for me.

 

[spiermackay]

Any plan to release high rise version of cotton/linen?

Up now. Check new arrivals.