• STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

spiermackay

Affiliate Vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
6,343
Reaction score
14,232
Does anyone know the differences between the "double breasted" and "traditional peak lapel - double breasted" MTM suit patterns? It looks like the peaks might be lower on the traditional option, but there isn't a description.

Thanks!
The traditional is lower and flatter with less belly. Should be a pic when you open the option up
 

spiermackay

Affiliate Vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
6,343
Reaction score
14,232
For those who have received items (shorts or safaris) in the current cream linen fabric: does it look cream IRL? In some of the pics I have seen, it looks more white than cream.
It's actually more Off-White. Not White, not Yellow.
 

spiermackay

Affiliate Vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
6,343
Reaction score
14,232
S&M vs Black Lapel custom suit. Anyone bought both and have an opinion?
Black Lapel are good guys. They lean more MTM, where you input body measurements which could either work out great if you're inputs are exact or horrendous if not. As well, and I don't think they have as many options as we do.

From what I know, they produce in the same main factory as Suitsupply MTM. Good quality. They use a lot of Filarte as their house cloth as well.

That said, if you know your base fit with us as a starting point, we can offer you unbeatable value and we'll only continue and expand the program.
 

James1051

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2013
Messages
6,533
Reaction score
21,899
The traditional is lower and flatter with less belly. Should be a pic when you open the option up
The light blue herringbone db in your MTO exclusive section is striking, is that the "traditional"?
The description of that one says its 4x2, but pic shows 6 buttons?
And more generally, these MTO Exclusives, are they are customizable as all MTO jackets?
 

spiermackay

Affiliate Vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
6,343
Reaction score
14,232
The light blue herringbone db in your MTO exclusive section is striking, is that the "traditional"?
The description of that one says its 4x2, but pic shows 6 buttons?
And more generally, these MTO Exclusives, are they are customizable as all MTO jackets?
That is a Traditional, but the jacket was a 36, so the lapel is showing a bit smaller there. Normally its a healthy 12.5 cm/5"

Yes. You click customize and if auto loads the options as seen in the pic, but you can customize the cloth however you like.
 

carterjones

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2020
Messages
93
Reaction score
96
Will chinos/quest cotton type trousers ever come in MTO options? I have funny proportions (there isn't a size 29 in OTW & I seem to fit 28 in waist and 30 in hips). Also I remember hearing last year rumors of trench coats and/or leather jackets. Were these COVID casualties/delays or maybe scrapped ideas?
 

TheLawBeard

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2019
Messages
161
Reaction score
279
Since we're getting REALLY awesome answers and help now:
Do we know if Fabric 2458R 180/3 (Style 22152-2F1H1) is a match for any of the MTO sportcoat fabrics? It's the Guabello blue mix texture from FW-19.
 

SmoothLefty

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2012
Messages
206
Reaction score
366
Like a sack jacket?
Yes, though as orangefury mentioned I don't know how well a true sack would sell. There are still a ton of Ivy enthusiasts out there and your MTO program is less expansive than OTR stuff at O'Connell's or J. Press. You also offer a ton of fun tweeds that go well with Ivy's casual nature. I don't know how difficult it is for the MTO program to offer darted vs undarted but the other details...
  • 3/2 closure: bottom button aligns horizontally with the top of the patch/flap pockets: you already offer this with the Neo cut.
  • 3.5" notch lapels: already offered based on alkydrinker's MTO.
  • Swelled edges/lapped seams: I can't tell on alkydrinker's coat if it has swelled edges but I think it does. Lapped seams may be a pain, not sure.
  • Triple patch pockets with patch & flap pockets at the hip: I see you already offer the latter, again based on alkydrinker's coat. I imagine a patch pocket at the chest isn't a big deal.
  • Hook vent: the one Ivy detail I never cared about, not sure it'd actually prevent any Ivy fans from ordering MTO. I'd assume this would also be a pain.
Again, not super different from the Neo cut but narrower lapels, swelled edges, lapped seams, patch/flap pockets. An option for darted/undarted would be the icing on the cake, though I'm sure not having a sack/undarted option would be a dealbreaker for some as it's one of Ivy's defining characteristics.

What alkydrinker was able to order is pretty darn close but the fact that it's missing some key details--and I can only speak for myself--is why I haven't ordered any MTO sportcoats. I'd be all over a grey herringbone tweed and a blue seersucker in an Ivy template. Corduroy, fun tweeds. It'd be a problem for my bank account.
 

dukenukem4ever

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2019
Messages
556
Reaction score
334
Black Lapel are good guys. They lean more MTM, where you input body measurements which could either work out great if you're inputs are exact or horrendous if not. As well, and I don't think they have as many options as we do.

From what I know, they produce in the same main factory as Suitsupply MTM. Good quality. They use a lot of Filarte as their house cloth as well.

That said, if you know your base fit with us as a starting point, we can offer you unbeatable value and we'll only continue and expand the program.
Their Filarte is made in China cloth?
 

Cmezavz

Active Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2020
Messages
27
Reaction score
8
@spiermackay How do the new cotton-linen blend trousers compare with the quest cotton in terms of wrinkles/crease? and better fabric for warmer weathers?
 

alkydrinker

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
104
Reaction score
119
Like a sack jacket?
I don't know how difficult it is for the MTO program to offer darted vs undarted but the other details...
  • 3/2 closure: bottom button aligns horizontally with the top of the patch/flap pockets: you already offer this with the Neo cut. AVAILABLE
  • 3.5" notch lapels: already offered based on alkydrinker's MTO. AVAILABLE
  • Swelled edges/lapped seams: NOT AVAILABLE
  • Triple patch pockets with patch & flap pockets at the hip: AVAILABLE
  • Hook vent: the one Ivy detail I never cared about, not sure it'd actually prevent any Ivy fans from ordering MTO. I'd assume this would also be a pain. NOT AVAILABLE
  • An option for darted/undarted would be the icing on the cake, though I'm sure not having a sack/undarted option would be a dealbreaker for some as it's one of Ivy's defining characteristics. NOT AVAILABLE/NOT NEEDED?
@SmoothLefty - FYI, if you go into S&M's custom jacket options, you can do triple patch pockets and then put flaps on the hip pockets by request. (I simply chose to not do a chest patch pocket on my green tweed example.)

But otherwise, to reiterate on SmoothLefty's post and sum up what I believe the key missing ivy features are:
  1. Swelled edges/lapped seams
  2. Center rear hook vent
Regarding undarted vs darted: I concur with smoothlefty that an undarted front is not usually a priority for most (and I bet it would be a big undertaking to develop). There are tons of vintage Brooks Brothers & Southwick examples with all the ivy features - but WITH front darts - and most ivy fans are more than happy to wear them. As an aside, Sid Mashburn does an undarted sack where the cut has been allegedly engineered to look contemporary - no idea how well those jackets sell.

Below is a description of the swelled edge/lapped seam feature (from http://www.ivy-style.com/the-swelled-edge-a-quarter-inch-of-distinction.html)

swelled_edge.png



And, swelled/lapped seams again on some pockets and swelled edge stitching on lapels:
lappedseam.png
 
Last edited:

apd90700

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2021
Messages
164
Reaction score
108
Any 5'7" guys in here care to speak to pant size inseam tailoring for a half-break fit? Looking online, seeing that a 26-27" inseam is appropriate for most guys in that height bracket.
 

theh00d

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2012
Messages
608
Reaction score
256
Any chambray shirts coming out? Like the red chambray rtw mentioned awhile back?
 

sdjackofclubs

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2015
Messages
129
Reaction score
101
Any 5'7" guys in here care to speak to pant size inseam tailoring for a half-break fit? Looking online, seeing that a 26-27" inseam is appropriate for most guys in that height bracket.
I'm 5'8", and I like no break in most pants. My inseam when I do that is 27 or 27 1/2, depending on the pants. I hope this helps.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Styleforum x S.E.H Kelly Balmacaan: Choose the Fabric

  • standard 5 — light and dark brown

    Votes: 8 6.5%
  • standard 7 — dark brown and charcoal

    Votes: 17 13.7%
  • wide 1 — charcoal and blue-grey

    Votes: 7 5.6%
  • wide 3 — barley and brown

    Votes: 5 4.0%
  • wide 5 — charcoal and dark navy

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • wide 6 — charcoal and black

    Votes: 3 2.4%
  • wide 7 — dark green and black

    Votes: 29 23.4%
  • wide 8 — malt and dark brown

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • wide 9 — blue-grey and charcoal

    Votes: 35 28.2%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
458,509
Messages
9,946,625
Members
207,204
Latest member
gernes123
Top