SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[JIMIG]

Just got my custom green herringbone Harris Tweed and its pretty great. I did a 3/2 roll with standard SC lapels and also patch hip pockets with flaps. (I like American Ivy details.)

@alkydrinker this looks great. Would you mind sharing pictures with the jacket on? I am considering ordering an MTO jacket with ivy details myself. Did you ask for slimmer lapels or changes in buttoning stance? Or just the standard SC with 3/2 and flap/patch?

 

[DapperPhilly]

I've only got limited experience when it comes to various dress shirt fabrics, but I've had mixed results with fine twill. In lighter solid colors, it wrinkled very quickly - between leaving my place and getting to work it looked like it had been worn all day. I have a few poplin and royal twill shirts that have worked out better for me.

Not sure I understand. Are you commenting on your general familiarity with fine twill fabric or have you handled/bought the specific shirts I asked about?

 

[dapperclassic]

Experience with their fine twill shirts anyone? Whats the fabric like in person?
Thanks for any info.


https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/sky-blue-fine-twill-sft-sb-c13f5-k

I have both the purple label sky blue and white fine twills with Italian spread collar, excellent shirts, no noticeable shrink when washed cold . The cloth has a very fine and soft hand, fairly easy to iron too, not crease resistant but still looks decent after a day at the office, bar the creasing around elbows which is inevitable.

Quite a few pics of me wearing these shirts on my IG page If you want to see them IRL.

Note that the non purple label fine twills i‘ve had a not such a successful experience with, the cloth to me seemed stiffer and more difficult to iron but likewise, no noticeable shrink in this one either.

 

[DapperPhilly]

I have both the purple label sky blue and white fine twills with Italian spread collar, excellent shirts, no noticeable shrink when washed cold . The cloth has a very fine and soft hand, fairly easy to iron too, not crease resistant but still looks decent after a day at the office, bar the creasing around elbows which is inevitable.

Quite a few pics of me wearing these shirts on my IG page If you want to see them IRL.

Note that the non purple label fine twills i‘ve had a not such a successful experience with, the cloth to me seemed stiffer and more difficult to iron but likewise, no noticeable shrink in this one either.

I appreciate that info. I ordered 3 purple label fine twills last night. Light blue, white and

I have both the purple label sky blue and white fine twills with Italian spread collar, excellent shirts, no noticeable shrink when washed cold . The cloth has a very fine and soft hand, fairly easy to iron too, not crease resistant but still looks decent after a day at the office, bar the creasing around elbows which is inevitable.

Quite a few pics of me wearing these shirts on my IG page If you want to see them IRL.

Note that the non purple label fine twills i‘ve had a not such a successful experience with, the cloth to me seemed stiffer and more difficult to iron but likewise, no noticeable shrink in this one either.

Thank you for that information. It's exactly what I was looking for. Last night I ordered 3 purple label fine twill with Italian spread collar.
Ivory, light blue, and white.

 

[Vestīmenta Optimae]

I received, yesterday, the green seersucker suit, in Neapolitan cut, in a 34 short. The fabric is from Minni's. I haven't taken it to the tailor's yet, but I can tell you that the trousers are very snug in the waist. Standard 6-inch drop, so it should hit about 28. I've never had a problem with a size 28 trouser before, but I'm going to be taking these out at least an inch at my tailor's shop. Has anyone else experienced this with S&M?

 

[breakaway01]

I received, yesterday, the green seersucker suit, in Neapolitan cut, in a 34 short. The fabric is from Minni's. I haven't taken it to the tailor's yet, but I can tell you that the trousers are very snug in the waist. Standard 6-inch drop, so it should hit about 28. I've never had a problem with a size 28 trouser before, but I'm going to be taking these out at least an inch at my tailor's shop. Has anyone else experienced this with S&M?

My trousers from S&M have always been true to the website measurements. Have you measured the waist on your trousers yourself?

 

[Vestīmenta Optimae]

My trousers from S&M have always been true to the website measurements. Have you measured the waist on your trousers yourself?

No, I haven't had the opportunity to take a measurement yet. I will measure tonight and cross-reference the site. I am also aware that, in general, S&M does allow for swapping trousers on most of their suits, so it may be a case of needing to size up the trousers on my next purchase (this one was final sale, so I'll make the best of it at the tailor shop). To be completely clear: I'm not complaining; I got the suit, a lightweight oxford shirt and a purple label shirt for $550 taxes included. By every metric, it surpasses my expectations for a product at that price point. I'm just wondering if trouser size is a bit smaller than standard in the Neapolitan cut.

 

[breakaway01]

I'm just wondering if trouser size is a bit smaller than standard in the Neapolitan cut.

It’s possible that the trousers are smaller than what is listed on the website measurements but the only way to know is to measure them. You probably already know this but rarely is a tagged 28” waist actually 28” when measured. There are variable amounts of added width depending on the manufacturer. My S&M 30” trousers actually measure 31.5” and that’s fairly typical. So be careful about thinking there is a “standard” waist size.

 

[Vestīmenta Optimae]

It’s possible that the trousers are smaller than what is listed on the website measurements but the only way to know is to measure them. You probably already know this but rarely is a tagged 28” waist actually 28” when measured. There are variable amounts of added width depending on the manufacturer. My S&M 30” trousers actually measure 31.5” and that’s fairly typical. So be careful about thinking there is a “standard” waist size.

Yeah, I understand. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I wonder if S&M's standard 28" waist is smaller than most other companies'. Most of my 28" trousers measure at about 29 1/4" and fit very comfortably. As I said, I'll measure the trouser waist when I get to the tailor's this evening. I did manage to check and S&M leave very generous seams, so altering it to fit won't be a problem. I don't think I've gotten significantly fatter since my last suit purchase.

 

[breakaway01]

Yeah, I understand. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I wonder if S&M's standard 28" waist is smaller than most other companies'. Most of my 28" trousers measure at about 29 1/4" and fit very comfortably. As I said, I'll measure the trouser waist when I get to the tailor's this evening. I did manage to check and S&M leave very generous seams, so altering it to fit won't be a problem. I don't think I've gotten significantly fatter since my last suit purchase.

I know that some runs of suits/trousers have run smaller than expected; I don't know if this is one of them, though. If it does measure significantly less than on the website, I'd let customer service know -- in the past they have given me a credit (for a future purchase) to cover alterations.

 

[motorchang]

S&M leave very generous seams, so altering it to fit won't be a problem.

Yeah all my jackets and trousers from SM has an inch or inch and a half seems that can be let out if needed at various points. Some brands don't even give an inch of room and that was problematic when I was still in the process of figuring out the kind of fit that suits me the best.

 

[orange fury]

I received, yesterday, the green seersucker suit, in Neapolitan cut, in a 34 short. The fabric is from Minni's. I haven't taken it to the tailor's yet, but I can tell you that the trousers are very snug in the waist. Standard 6-inch drop, so it should hit about 28. I've never had a problem with a size 28 trouser before, but I'm going to be taking these out at least an inch at my tailor's shop. Has anyone else experienced this with S&M?

Is it the first time you've boght the high rise trousers? I've noticed high rise tends to fit more snug in the waist than the same size in the normal rise for me

 

[c.bisesar]

Not sure I understand. Are you commenting on your general familiarity with fine twill fabric or have you handled/bought the specific shirts I asked about?

I haven't bought those specific OTR colors from S&M, but I have bought fine twill shirts from S&M.

 

[Vestīmenta Optimae]

Is it the first time you've boght the high rise trousers? I've noticed high rise tends to fit more snug in the waist than the same size in the normal rise for me

It is the first time I've bought high-rise trousers, and I do have larger-than-normal hips relative to my waist size, so that could be providing the challenge, now that you mention it.

 

[alkydrinker]

@alkydrinker this looks great. Would you mind sharing pictures with the jacket on? I am considering ordering an MTO jacket with ivy details myself. Did you ask for slimmer lapels or changes in buttoning stance? Or just the standard SC with 3/2 and flap/patch?

Sure, here are a few quick & dirty shots of my green herringbone Harris Tweed:

This is simply the standard SC cut and lapels, adding on a 3/2 button and flap/patch. I also let out the waist 1" from the standard 42L template, which I think makes the jacket hang a little straighter/without severe waist suppression, which slightly invokes the ivy/sack look.
I shortened the jacket 0.5" from the 42L template, which I should not have done.

IMO, the jacket essentially retains S&M's italian-look DNA, but it's toned way down, especially from the Neo cut. So, not really a full-blown ivy look at all. If they did lapped seams on the patch hip pockets, that would def add to the ivy-ness (I did not ask to do that and I'm not sure if it would be possible, but would love to do that on a future jacket). Further, this jacket retains the dual rear vents....I completely forgot to request a center vent and again I'm not sure if it would even be possible.

I did request a throat latch, which they said just wasn't possible.