SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[dukenukem4ever]

Honestly speaking 8 dollars is a massive arbitrage opportunity but it's also a damn risk because you can't QC before shipping. My tailor charges 15 dollars for hemming or 20 dollars for hemming and cuffing, so almost or more than twice as expensive depending on the option you get but at least she allows unlimited re-dos (within reason) until I am fully satisfied. Note to all... don't use the 8 dollar hemming option lol.

 

[ericgereghty]

Bahahahahahaha. Incredible lol. I get pinching a penny here and there, but after seeing some of the results of the hemming (this one does take the cake by far...or short ) on this case, I can't imagine why anybody would utilize it. I'd teach myself prior.

 

[alkydrinker]

Problem with Shirt Cuff Measurement on MTM Shirt

Has anyone else had inconsistencies on the shirt cuff measurement on MTM shirts? Below is my experience:

Shirt Description	Specified Cuff Measurement	Entire Cuff Piece (Actual Measurement)	Middle of Button Hole to Middle of Button (Actual Measurement)	Fit
1st Test Shirt	9.25	10	8.75	Too big
2nd Version of Test Shirt	8.75	9.35	8.35	Good
2nd & 3rd Shirt (shipped together)	8.75	8.75	7.5	Too tight

Based on S&M's video for measuring the cuff, the 2nd and 3rd shirts are actually correct....the spec'd measurement matches the entire length of the entire cuff piece. However, the 2nd version of my test shirt was perfect, so I instructed S&M to use the exact same measurements on the 2nd & 3rd shirts, which came back with the cuffs significantly smaller.

Now I have 2 shirts with cuffs that are too small and probably not enough room to move the buttons to make them work.

I emailed customer service and will see what they say.

 

[Imperatores]

I've used the hemming service on at least 15 pairs, and the lengths have been bang on every time. The cuffs are quite basic though, and well below what I would expect if I took them to a competent tailor on my own. They're about on par with what I can achieve with a sewing machine myself.

 

[JayDee90]

I've used the hemming service on at least 15 pairs, and the lengths have been bang on every time. The cuffs are quite basic though, and well below what I would expect if I took them to a competent tailor on my own. They're about on par with what I can achieve with a sewing machine myself.

What are the things you identify as signs of a basic cuff/hem vs those of higher quality?

 

[SumDude]

Problem with Shirt Cuff Measurement on MTM Shirt

Has anyone else had inconsistencies on the shirt cuff measurement on MTM shirts? Below is my experience:

Shirt Description	Specified Cuff Measurement	Entire Cuff Piece (Actual Measurement)	Middle of Button Hole to Middle of Button (Actual Measurement)	Fit
1st Test Shirt	9.25	10	8.75	Too big
2nd Version of Test Shirt	8.75	9.35	8.35	Good
2nd & 3rd Shirt (shipped together)	8.75	8.75	7.5	Too tight

Based on S&M's video for measuring the cuff, the 2nd and 3rd shirts are actually correct....the spec'd measurement matches the entire length of the entire cuff piece. However, the 2nd version of my test shirt was perfect, so I instructed S&M to use the exact same measurements on the 2nd & 3rd shirts, which came back with the cuffs significantly smaller.

Now I have 2 shirts with cuffs that are too small and probably not enough room to move the buttons to make them work.

I emailed customer service and will see what they say.

Great! I am still waiting for my first MTM shirt order with S&M and now I am nervous. I really wanted to take advantage of the current sale too. Guess I would be better off waiting now.

 

[Litigation Cures All]

Do the trousers and chinos feature horn buttons?

 

[alkydrinker]

Great! I am still waiting for my first MTM shirt order with S&M and now I am nervous. I really wanted to take advantage of the current sale too. Guess I would be better off waiting now.

They re-did my first shirt for free, even though the main problem (sleeve length) was my fault and I admitted to that. The S&M sleeve length was exactly to spec, but what I didn't realize was that my previous MTM company Ratio was adding an inch to the sleeves for shrinkage (tho they never shrank).

Regarding the cuffs, you could always error on the big side and move the buttons if needed. All other measurements other than this cuff problem I'm having have been very accurate across the 4 shirts I've received.

 

[Litigation Cures All]

They re-did my first shirt for free, even though the main problem (sleeve length) was my fault and I admitted to that. The S&M sleeve length was exactly to spec, but what I didn't realize was that my previous MTM company Ratio was adding an inch to the sleeves for shrinkage (tho they never shrank).

Regarding the cuffs, you could always error on the big side and move the buttons if needed. All other measurements other than this cuff problem I'm having have been very accurate across the 4 shirts I've received.

I used to use Ratio. Not sure if it was the pandemic, but the quality of their USA made shirts was not good. Buttonholes were not properly finished, etc.

 

[Imperatores]

What are the things you identify as signs of a basic cuff/hem vs those of higher quality?

For the best possible cuffs, the leg opening should be let out slightly to ensure that the cuff lies flat when folded up. Otherwise you get a bit of puckering above the cuff since the part that's folded up is narrower than the trouser leg it lies over. This is of less importance, but the cuff could also be attached by hand to avoid any risk of future fraying where they would otherwise machine stitch them along the vertical leg seam. I also wish they'd offer those protective nylon bands on the inside of the hem (not sure what the exact English terminology is for these), which would also allow for the stitching to be protected and obscured behind them.

 

[motorchang]

For the best possible cuffs, the leg opening should be let out slightly to ensure that the cuff lies flat when folded up. Otherwise you get a bit of puckering above the cuff since the part that's folded up is narrower than the trouser leg it lies over.

I've used hem service for about 5 times so far and cuffs have been great in this regards, no puckering when I stand straight or trousers are lied flat on floor.

 

[Imperatores]

I've used hem service for about 5 times so far and cuffs have been great in this regards, no puckering when I stand straight or trousers are lied flat on floor.

Sure, it can vary a bit depending on a few things. Some fabrics will be much less prone to it than others (my moleskins lies perfectly flat for instance, while some flannels and lighter weight worsted wools have had some issues). I would imagine that the length of your inseam could play into it as well. If you have a longer inseam, the cuffs may not reach far enough up the trouser leg for there to be much of a difference in width. I have a fairly short inseam at 27,5 to 28 inches.

Another obvious sign of a good quality cuff that I forgot to mention is the sharpness and consistency of the folds. The S&M ones doesn't seem to be pressed down very hard, and there can be as much as a 0,5cm variation in cuff height from one side of the leg to the other.

 

[motorchang]

I would imagine that the length of your inseam could play into it as well. If you have a longer inseam, the cuffs may not reach far enough up the trouser leg for there to be much of a difference in width. I have a fairly short inseam at 27,5 to 28 inches.

I can see that as shorter inseam means that pants could be cuffed at a point where the legs are still tapering down. I use 29.5 inch and they've been consistently great. One of my none SM trousers where I used shorter inseam using a tailor have a terrible puckering issue.

 

[c.bisesar]

Does anyone know if the Inner Placket Color for a MTO shirt is put on the outer portion of the button side, or the inner portion of the button hole side of the shirt?

 

[dukenukem4ever]

What are the things you identify as signs of a basic cuff/hem vs those of higher quality?

I find it hard to describe but I once went to an "alterations specialist" to ask if she could do three things:

1. let out waist and seat 1.5 inches
2. hem 5 inches
3. make 1.5 inch cuff.

She couldn't accomplish any of the tasks I asked her to do. What was most egregious was the cuffs. They were folded up and then quite literally stitched with a sewing machine, thus showing the actual stitch lines all around the cuff. And the cuffs were 1.15 inches and she had the AUDACITY to tell me that it was 1.5 inches while staring at my using a ruler to measure the cuffs in front of her.

That's when i brought my all my stuff immediately to my current tailor, who simply chuckled, and said, "This is the worst cuff I've ever seen in my life, in fact, i don't know anyone who makes a cuff like this."