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acapaca

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FYI, There are different ways of doing a cuff, but a true cuff is ideal for durability of the hem and longevity of the trousers themselves. A true cuff uses a regular stich for the hem (similar to chinos) as opposed to a blind stitch--since the hem won't be seen--making for a much more secure hold than a trouser without a cuff. The hem is longer than the desired inseam because the fabric is folded over itself and then sewn in place at the side seams (any cuttings to reduce length are discarded, NOT sewn onto the cuff). This means that the friction point between your pant leg and shoes or the ground actually occurs past your measured inseam at a length twice the width of the cuff. So if it begins to fray, you can easily release the hem, fold back the cloth, and have either a smaller cuff or an uncuffed hem put in with the frayed section either removed or folded inside the leg.
I thought the most straightforward way of doing a cuff was to give it a hem like you describe (one cuff length longer than the inseam, with a corresponding amount also extra on the inside, of course) and then simply turn it up and tack it. In other words, if you want a two-inch cuff on a 32 inseam, with let's say one inch from the inseam to the hem stitch, then you turn up three inches on the inside, from 34 inches overall, and then simply turn the two inches back up for the cuff. This will leave the hem stitch at one inch from the bottom, and you'll be able to see it when you peek inside the cuff (assuming it's not a blind stitch, as you described).

If so, wouldn't that mean the wear was still happening at exactly your inseam, just on the outside instead of the inside? In other words, if it actually frayed through, then going from cuff to plain bottom wouldn't help because you'd still have wear on that same line.

Edit: Ah, but it gives you an extra layer of fabric at the end of the inseam, meaning you'd actually have to wear through the outside layer to the get to the one that would be left if you converted to plain hem. Now I get it.
 

Riva

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They're plastic because they're big? Huh?
Seems like you don't upgrade coat buttons often. It's hella hard to source huge genuine horn buttons with the color you want. I've resorted to settling with smaller buttons which I prefer anyway.

Ideally the cardigan buttons should be replaced with a 28mm but a 25mm could work. The price difference between the 20mm vs 28mm is quite huge.

 

orange fury

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Here’s a quick shot of the navy shawl cardigan. I’m liking the slouchy, relaxed feel. I wear a 36s slim jacket and I took a small.

View attachment 1483270
out of curiosity, what is your normal sleeve length? And it looks like the sleeves are rolled a bit?

I’m trying to figure out how mine is going to fit before it comes in on Tuesday, I haven’t seen too many smalls posted here
 

James1051

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Totally mundane question (my specialty): the merino wool turtlenecks, fine gauge not cable knit--will they stretch out and lose shape if I hang them? Or is it better to fold them and store them in a drawer? Same question for the merino wool LS polos
 

XxLogo

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Totally mundane question (my specialty): the merino wool turtlenecks, fine gauge not cable knit--will they stretch out and lose shape if I hang them? Or is it better to fold them and store them in a drawer? Same question for the merino wool LS polos
I would fold any fine gauge knit wear made of merino wool over hanging, no matter the thickness. No one likes shoulder dimples lol. If you absolutely must hang them, fold them then hang them on the trouser bar part
 

CaliforniaTux

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out of curiosity, what is your normal sleeve length? And it looks like the sleeves are rolled a bit?

I’m trying to figure out how mine is going to fit before it comes in on Tuesday, I haven’t seen too many smalls posted here
Yes, the sleeves are rolled up but it could also do without. I just like the look of rolled up sleeves on chunky knits. I’m usually a 33 length in shirts.
 

mbb355

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Seems like you don't upgrade coat buttons often. It's hella hard to source huge genuine horn buttons with the color you want. I've resorted to settling with smaller buttons which I prefer anyway.

Ideally the cardigan buttons should be replaced with a 28mm but a 25mm could work. The price difference between the 20mm vs 28mm is quite huge.

I mean sure but my whole point was that the buttons on these new shawl cardigans are a tad big. So, at least for purposes of this shawl cardigan and pieces like it, there's no need to "source huge" buttons of any kind--plastic, horn, etc. etc.
 

ptfly

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Totally mundane question (my specialty): the merino wool turtlenecks, fine gauge not cable knit--will they stretch out and lose shape if I hang them? Or is it better to fold them and store them in a drawer? Same question for the merino wool LS polos
I fold the turtles, crews and v necks. Since I grab the light weight cardigans often for the office I hang them on thick, cedar hangers. I don't get any shoulder bumps or growing on these as they are very light and finer gauge and they are not growing from gravity pulling them. I would definitely not hang any knit on a thin hanger.
Any mid weight to heavy sweater I fold.
 

charleswang

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Yes, the sleeves are rolled up but it could also do without. I just like the look of rolled up sleeves on chunky knits. I’m usually a 33 length in shirts.
Good to know you folded up the sleeves a bit... 38R with 34 length sleeves typically and ordered a small. Was regretting that decision when I saw where the sleeves ended on you.
 

orange fury

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Totally mundane question (my specialty): the merino wool turtlenecks, fine gauge not cable knit--will they stretch out and lose shape if I hang them? Or is it better to fold them and store them in a drawer? Same question for the merino wool LS polos
Definitely fold to avoid shoulder “points” and stretching. I have all knitwear, regardless of knit gauge, folded and stored in clothing storage bags/boxes.
 

orange fury

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Good to know you folded up the sleeves a bit... 38R with 34 length sleeves typically and ordered a small. Was regretting that decision when I saw where the sleeves ended on you.
oh good, you and I are in exactly the same boat lol (34.5 sleeve ideally for me, but still)

@CaliforniaTux, it looks like maybe1.5” folded up in that pic?
 

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