- Oct 15, 2017
- Reaction score
I thought the most straightforward way of doing a cuff was to give it a hem like you describe (one cuff length longer than the inseam, with a corresponding amount also extra on the inside, of course) and then simply turn it up and tack it. In other words, if you want a two-inch cuff on a 32 inseam, with let's say one inch from the inseam to the hem stitch, then you turn up three inches on the inside, from 34 inches overall, and then simply turn the two inches back up for the cuff. This will leave the hem stitch at one inch from the bottom, and you'll be able to see it when you peek inside the cuff (assuming it's not a blind stitch, as you described).FYI, There are different ways of doing a cuff, but a true cuff is ideal for durability of the hem and longevity of the trousers themselves. A true cuff uses a regular stich for the hem (similar to chinos) as opposed to a blind stitch--since the hem won't be seen--making for a much more secure hold than a trouser without a cuff. The hem is longer than the desired inseam because the fabric is folded over itself and then sewn in place at the side seams (any cuttings to reduce length are discarded, NOT sewn onto the cuff). This means that the friction point between your pant leg and shoes or the ground actually occurs past your measured inseam at a length twice the width of the cuff. So if it begins to fray, you can easily release the hem, fold back the cloth, and have either a smaller cuff or an uncuffed hem put in with the frayed section either removed or folded inside the leg.
If so, wouldn't that mean the wear was still happening at exactly your inseam, just on the outside instead of the inside? In other words, if it actually frayed through, then going from cuff to plain bottom wouldn't help because you'd still have wear on that same line.
Edit: Ah, but it gives you an extra layer of fabric at the end of the inseam, meaning you'd actually have to wear through the outside layer to the get to the one that would be left if you converted to plain hem. Now I get it.