SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[inTROYspection]

I wore side tab high rise with double pleats flannel trousers yesterday and I felt very much like Urkel yesterday. The jacket wasn't worn 95% of the day yesterday as I was in the office. I'll have to see if I can get used to it.

How many times did you try the trousers before moving on?

I tried on high rise trousers once, and I just couldn't take myself seriously. I think others can look great in them, including many SF members who post fit pics. But as I mentioned in my last post, my social context (including the hyper-casual dress "code" at my office) makes the high rise thing unappealing to me. Mid rise all the way.

 

[SteveMc]

Last years Moon guncheck, looking forward to wearing this years soon!

View attachment 1480426
View attachment 1480427

@dapperclassic, this is probably my personal favorite outfit from you. I usually see you wear full suits, which you do very well, but this smart casual look is exactly what I'm aiming for.

Sorry for the belated response, I'm on the other side of the globe...

 

[mak1277]

I'd say that I like my trousers to sit just below my bellybutton, which means the rise is probably 10-10.5". I think there are a number of factors that contribute to whether high rise trousers are advisable (e.g., jacket vs. no jacket, age and stage, body shape, work environment, etc.). For instance, if one has a doughy midsection, then by all means go high rise, as the low rise chinos with the spare tire over the top isn't a good look.

But personally, I'm not trying to radically deviate from the norms of dress within my social milieu, and high rise pleated trousers would certainly put me out on the margins.

I would need a 14" rise in order to get my trousers to my belly button.

 

[Betelgeuse]

There are Botto flannels coming with side tabs and high rise I believe.

Edit: They are up

Will need to check them out.

You can request side tabs on the VBC flannels for an additional $40 CAD, FYI.

Yup but that would mean no cuffs.

 

[Betelgeuse]

The Guabello flannels in the high rise and at 280g sounds like an exceptional option for Mexican weather, right?

 

[SteveMc]

Has anyone heard or seen if the sizing on cardigans/vnecks changes this year? Specifically the necks since they were humongous last year. @spiermackay

From S&M customer service response to the same question:

 

[mbb355]

The Guabello flannels in the high rise and at 280g sounds like an exceptional option for Mexican weather, right?

In seriousness, if you want to wear flannel but worry about the heat, get a looser cut. The air flow will help keep you cool. Plus, with trousers like that you'll most likely be indoors in temperature-controlled environments, no? Go for it if you like the look, you'll have plenty of occasions to wear even in Mexico.

 

[inTROYspection]

I would need a 14" rise in order to get my trousers to my belly button.

To my point that body shape (and proportions) should be taken into account.

 

[abantigen]

I think lot of this talk about high-rise vs mid-rise is pointless without talking about body proportions. If you have a relatively short torso you might look fine with a 10 inch rise but comical with rise over 11 inches. On the other hand, if you have a long torso you'll benefit from having higher rise.

This is Michael Phelps who's 6'4" but has only a 30 inch inseam. His extreme proportions that allowed him to be arguably the greatest Olympic athlete of all time also disqualifies him for OTR trousers.

The closer to the average proportion you are the more likely high-rise and mid-rise becomes a question of taste. For people farther away from the average you don't really have a choice. I personally think the rise of SM and most OTR trousers run a bit short so it's nice to have the high rise option without having to go custom.

 

[Ebichuman]

The lack of clear communications on the sizing is annoying. I could swear that Rick (or someone quoting Rick) said that they changed the length of some sweaters (it would be helpful to know which sweaters we're talking about). We also know that shawl cardigans run large so people are advised to size down but none of this is as clear as it should be. They could have added garment size and model measurements to the pictures recently added to the site - this would make it much clearer and prevent multi-rounds of questions or, worse yet, people buying multiple sizes only to return those that don't fit. Cant see this as being efficient or cost effective for Spier.

 

[Betelgeuse]

In seriousness, if you want to wear flannel but worry about the heat, get a looser cut. The air flow will help keep you cool. Plus, with trousers like that you'll most likely be indoors in temperature-controlled environments, no? Go for it if you like the look, you'll have plenty of occasions to wear even in Mexico.

Yeap, most of the time indoors. That's why I don't have a lot of flannel trousers, actually, just two. So, something with a tighter weaver at 280g instead of 330g sounds like a good option.

 

[mbb355]

I think lot of this talk about high-rise vs mid-rise is pointless without talking about body proportions. If you have a relatively short torso you might look fine with a 10 inch rise but comical with rise over 11 inches. On the other hand, if you have a long torso you'll benefit from having higher rise.

This is Michael Phelps who's 6'4" but has only a 30 inch inseam. His extreme proportions that allowed him to be arguably the greatest Olympic athlete of all time also disqualifies him for OTR trousers.

View attachment 1480761

The closer to the average proportion you are the more likely high-rise and mid-rise becomes a question of taste. For people farther away from the average you don't really have a choice. I personally think the rise of SM and most OTR trousers run a bit short so it's nice to have the high rise option without having to go custom.

I mean sure but I think the point is that in recent years/decades, the trend has been toward lower rises, and fans of Spier and classic menswear rightly lament that trend. Rises should generally be higher because, your point about individual nuances notwithstanding, most people will look better in a higher rise that accentuates and divides the body at the natural waist, which is the natural dividing line between top of the body and bottom. Of course there are exceptions--that doesn't undermine the general rule.

 

[masernaut]

I mean sure but I think the point is that in recent years/decades, the trend has been toward lower rises, and fans of Spier and classic menswear rightly lament that trend. Rises should generally be higher because, your point about individual nuances notwithstanding, most people will look better in a higher rise that accentuates and divides the body at the natural waist, which is the natural dividing line between top of the body and bottom. Of course there are exceptions--that doesn't undermine the general rule.

High-rise = more room in the seat and thighs. As someone who isn't 6 foot 140 lbs, I prefer high-rise trousers.

 

[mbb355]

High-rise = more room in the seat and thighs. As someone who isn't 6 foot 140 lbs, I prefer high-rise trousers.

I roughly am those proportions and still prefer higher rise (and the extra room in the seat), lol

 

[abantigen]

I mean sure but I think the point is that in recent years/decades, the trend has been toward lower rises, and fans of Spier and classic menswear rightly lament that trend. Rises should generally be higher because, your point about individual nuances notwithstanding, most people will look better in a higher rise that accentuates and divides the body at the natural waist, which is the natural dividing line between top of the body and bottom. Of course there are exceptions--that doesn't undermine the general rule.

Yeah I get that completely and I think that's the general consensus here. I guess my comment was aimed at people who say the rise is already high enough without maybe realizing they're built differently.