• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 5: Good Art HLYWD rosette courtesy of Self Edge

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 5th auction is for a custom Good Art HLYWD bracelet courtesy of Self Edge. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

jermyzy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2014
Messages
90
Reaction score
30
Ok, let's put an end to the Great Overcoat Sizing Debate! (maybe?)

For reference, I'm 5'11/195ish and wear a 42L in Spier and Mackay. Last year I bought the grey Zanieri herringbone polo coat in size 42. I can fit a sportcoat/suit jacket underneath and still button the buttons, but it is a little snug with the layers underneath. Mobility in the shoulders is ok, but when driving for example, feels a little restricted. The upside of course is the tailored silhouette.

This year I bought the camel DB coat and decided to size up to 44. There is no pulling (as expected) with just a sweater underneath, nor is the coat snug buttoning with a jacket underneath - pictured below I am wearing the cable knit sweater as well as the sweater plus a sportcoat. You can see the sportcoat sleeves inside the overcoat sleeves if you look closely. In the 44, movement in the shoulders is improved, and the back skirt stays closed better, something to consider for us men with larger rear ends. I also don't think only wearing a sweater or other light layer underneath the larger coat makes it seem slouchy or too big by any means.
:)
Sorry, the debate continues! I ordered a size 36 Zanieri Brown overcoat based on S&M's suggestion to wear same size if you plan on wearing sportscoat underneath (I wear 36 slim S&M sportscoat). Fits great, has fitted look while still maintain full range of motion without feeling tight anywhere. Having said that, your jacket is double-breasted. I generally find single-breasted coats tend to be a little more forgiving at the waist than double-breasted jackets in the same size. So maybe the guideline for wearing with sportscoat underneath is to size up for DB and same size for SB?
 

Attachments

SJR3

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2017
Messages
1,097
Reaction score
1,126
Speak for yourself.

Poor working conditions in China and India aren't exactly uncommon.
That is a possibly fair statement. However, what @Spaghettimatt said was a completely accurate assessment of the discussion so far. Basically, a bunch of non sequiturs and emotional nonsense led us to where we are.

I received my most recent pair of MTM trousers yesterday. I found the price to be fair, and while the fit is good and my instructions were mostly followed, Epstein didn't kill himself.
 

sobecane

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2011
Messages
142
Reaction score
67
Got the email notice about the VBC flannels today and the grey 30 slims were sold out by the time I got home from work. You guys need to seriously consider stocking more 30 slims. The only pair of trousers I've bought this year from S&M were the green five-pocket cords, but not for lack of trying. I've missed out on probably five other pairs because they've all been sold out within a few days of dropping.
THIS! Thought I was the only one with difficulty getting the 30 slims
 

savvysartorial

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2016
Messages
1,906
Reaction score
8,042
With MTM they will customize the collar to your specs. If you want it completely unlined, say so in the notes/comments field before checkout. If you want something really custom, like a different collar shape or size, you should reach out via DM here to @induere_to or @spiermackay and find out if they can do what you want.

Thank you very much for responding! It seems like they can do a lot of stuff, which is really cool.

I am just very interested in the look of the longer versus regular Italian collar as well.

Many thanks!!
 

ElliotG

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2017
Messages
136
Reaction score
266
Look guys, I'm only discussing S&M and not SuSu (1) because this is an S&M affiliate thread, and (2) I have no experience with SuSu.

Pick your brand, from fast-fashion to luxury, I'm skeptical of (1) actual quality and (2) actual working conditions for the kids people making the clothing. I'm not basing my questioning on a loose thread here or a missing belt loop there as evidence of subterfuge on the part of mistreated workers.

All I know about working conditions in east Asian factories are the bad things that get reported when, say, a fire wipes out an entire factory because they built it out of matchsticks and heated it with Depression-era burn barrels or something.

I'm sure there are plenty of factories in east Asia where, although the wages are low by western standards, the people are treated fairly (i.e., not working 18 hour shifts 6 days a week) and are perfectly happy.

I became an S&M customer because of Rick's transparency. It's really hard to know walking into a department store what kind of suit quality you are getting for $500, $1000, or $1500. I like many of you want good quality at a good value. I don't want to do that on the backs of fellow human beings.

So I'm not basing my question on emotion or wild conjecture. I'm just curious about this like I was curious several years ago about which companies half-canvass all their suits vs. which ones fuse, or the difference between VBC flannel and the flannel at JoAnn Fabrics.

That's all. And Bush did 9-11
 
Last edited:

ElliotG

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2017
Messages
136
Reaction score
266
So I received my suit right before 8:00 this morning, crisis averted LOL. There’s good and bad news though even though I only had a minutes to check it out before I had to head out to work.

I’ll start with the good:

• the jacket fits really well in a 45. I usually take a 46 in S&M OTR but I’m more of a natural 45 ad the 44 is too small and the 46 is a little too big. The front and back are very clean.
• The VBC fabric is really nice.
• The trousers length is spot on.


Now the bad:

• I opted for my regular 38 and requested the maximum 12.70” rise. The rise only measures 12” but that’s not the bad part, they have this weird bunching in the front. The crouch area is pretty bad and it also does a weird fold on the thigh area. My wife saw it right away and thought it looked very unflattering. It was hard to capture but you can see how there’s a fold in the front. I’m not even sure if that’s something that a tailor can fix but it looks bad.


Minor annoyances:

• The patch pockets are sown shut as someone else mentioned earlier.
• No VBC patch on the inside of the jacket.
• The trousers are missing the belt loop for the extended waistband.
• The monogram wasn’t included.
• The monogram wasn’t included.
• I asked for the left sleeve to be .25” shorter to a dropped right shoulder but I’m not sure that was done although I didn’t get a chance to measure it.

That’s it for now. Now I have to figure out how to deal with the trousers front issue. Maybe Rick or Tim can chime in on if whether or not that can be fixed.
View attachment 1280856View attachment 1280857View attachment 1280858View attachment 1280859
Any update from your tailor or S&M customer service?

I saw this article on Permanent Style yesterday and thought of your situation. He mentioned something about forward facing pleats and bunching on the inside of the leg.
 

gianm

Senior Member
Joined
May 25, 2018
Messages
351
Reaction score
176
My emerald green herringbone SC arrived yesterday. Beautiful cool weather piece.
View attachment 1283606

Can’t wait to pair it with the new charcoal tweed trousers.
I have a hard time gauging just how dark this is. At times it looks like a dark grey with only very limited green. Other times, the green stands out more. What's your take on general?
 

Torzano

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2015
Messages
858
Reaction score
920
Look guys, I'm only discussing S&M and not SuSu (1) because this is an S&M affiliate thread, and (2) I have no experience with SuSu.

Pick your brand, from fast-fashion to luxury, I'm skeptical of (1) actual quality and (2) actual working conditions for the kids people making the clothing. I'm not basing my questioning on a loose thread here or a missing belt loop there as evidence of subterfuge on the part of mistreated workers.

All I know about working conditions in east Asian factories are the bad things that get reported when, say, a fire wipes out an entire factory because they built it out of matchsticks and heated it with Depression-era burn barrels or something.

I'm sure there are plenty of factories in east Asia where, although the wages are low by western standards, the people are treated fairly (i.e., not working 18 hour shifts 6 days a week) and are perfectly happy.

I became an S&M customer because of Rick's transparency. It's really hard to know walking into a department store what kind of suit quality you are getting for $500, $1000, or $1500. I like many of you want good quality at a good value. I don't want to do that on the backs of fellow human beings.

So I'm not basing my question on emotion or wild conjecture. I'm just curious about this like I was curious several years ago about which companies half-canvass all their suits vs. which ones fuse, or the difference between VBC flannel and the flannel at JoAnn Fabrics.

That's all. And Bush did 9-11
And Epstein didn’t kill himself.
 

Imperatores

Member
Joined
May 2, 2017
Messages
12
Reaction score
10
I received my peacoat today, and it's certainly a very nice piece. I am a bit annoyed, though. While the fit isn't bad by any means, it's a fair bit roomier than I expected based on the sizing chart. So I checked the chart again, and it's now completely different from when I made my purchase. If only it was correct at the time of my purchase, I would have sized down. Now the correct size is out of stock, and international returns is something I had hoped to avoid.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 27 3.5%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 137 17.5%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 255 32.6%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 123 15.7%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 68 8.7%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 47 6.0%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 23 2.9%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 21 2.7%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 17 2.2%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 8 1.0%
  • 100+

    Votes: 49 6.3%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
428,748
Messages
9,223,679
Members
193,616
Latest member
robertortis
Top