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varsityreds0123

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The assertion that factories in China or abroad in general have less quality control than American or Italian factories is more myth than fact. Some factories in China are truly “premier”, and comparable to some of the more reputable factories making men’s clothing. You get what you pay for.
 

MisterrLovely

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Maybe I'm a bit colorblind, because I don't see any green in that photo... only gray with a tinge of blue.
Yeah, it's hard to see the green, unless it's in real life, under certain light. That, or using a good camera with proper lighting, as seen on S&M's site.
 

tricky

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The assertion that factories in China or abroad in general have less quality control than American or Italian factories is more myth than fact. Some factories in China are truly “premier”, and comparable to some of the more reputable factories making men’s clothing. You get what you pay for.
For real. Isn't RRL made in China?
 

mak1277

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Yeah, it's hard to see the green, unless it's in real life, under certain light. That, or using a good camera with proper lighting, as seen on S&M's site.
it’s funny you say that. I asked the original question precisely because I don’t see much (any?) green in the pics on the S&M site.
 

MisterrLovely

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it’s funny you say that. I asked the original question precisely because I don’t see much (any?) green in the pics on the S&M site.
Really? It looks quite green to me, like that of a mint leaf (hence the name). Could be a touch of color blindness?
 

mak1277

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Really? It looks quite green to me, like that of a mint leaf (hence the name). Could be a touch of color blindness?
well I’m looking at the trousers. But, yes, they look predominantly grey to me. Which is great if true. I wouldn’t buy them if they were too green.
 

nishant

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My 0.02 cents ..

Treated ‘fairly’ is a very loose benchmark. Many factory towns in India and China have workers with happiness index that probably surpasses that from Italy .. They are still poor by western definition but it may be a huge improvement if you were in abject poverty 20 years back and can now expect to have health insurance, education and future for your kids.. that can matter a lot!

I would go on a limb to say that even if you buy Kiton, BC or Isaia, you do practically nothing to ensure fair treatment of workers ... workers will always be those on hourly wages, some earning a few bucks more than others but majority of profits will get diverted to shareholders and upper tier mgmt. Income has no correlation with skill and manual effort in present society.

The only way to truly have fair and square treatment of workers is to have some form of profit sharing amongst every worker in the manufacturing chain. That of course is against the very idea of capitalism ..
 

Shawl Lapel

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Ok, let's put an end to the Great Overcoat Sizing Debate! (maybe?)

For reference, I'm 5'11/195ish and wear a 42L in Spier and Mackay. Last year I bought the grey Zanieri herringbone polo coat in size 42. I can fit a sportcoat/suit jacket underneath and still button the buttons, but it is a little snug with the layers underneath. Mobility in the shoulders is ok, but when driving for example, feels a little restricted. The upside of course is the tailored silhouette.

This year I bought the camel DB coat and decided to size up to 44. There is no pulling (as expected) with just a sweater underneath, nor is the coat snug buttoning with a jacket underneath - pictured below I am wearing the cable knit sweater as well as the sweater plus a sportcoat. You can see the sportcoat sleeves inside the overcoat sleeves if you look closely. In the 44, movement in the shoulders is improved, and the back skirt stays closed better, something to consider for us men with larger rear ends. I also don't think only wearing a sweater or other light layer underneath the larger coat makes it seem slouchy or too big by any means.

Sweater only under the coat.

1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg




Sweater plus sportcoat under the coat:

4.jpg
5.jpg




Pardon the wrinkles, this is basically out of the box without the coat having a chance to hang up yet. I think for me, not necessarily looking for a very tailored fit (beyond how Spier cuts these coats which I think is quite flattering as is), would suggest a size up whether or not you plan to layer. The mobility and comfort knowing I won't be stressing any buttons should I choose to really bundle up are definite pros for me. If you're usually in Spier slim fits you can probably get away with taking the same size as your sportcoats. I could probably nip the waist if I really wanted to, but this is outerwear, I'm not hard pressed to do that. I wouldn't mind more length in the coat either, but that may be nitpicking. All in all I think there's great value here. Now go forth and buy up these coats!


*Final thought as I re-read my post. The left side (wearing) pocket may be a hair lower than the right. This could be exacerbated by how I'm standing, but I'm sure someone will be along to draw colored lines so we can all weigh in :)

EDIT: I went back and looked at the pictures on SM's website. It looks like the product photos show uneven pockets, I wonder if it's a pattern issue...
 
Last edited:

Marshdrifter

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Got the email notice about the VBC flannels today and the grey 30 slims were sold out by the time I got home from work. You guys need to seriously consider stocking more 30 slims. The only pair of trousers I've bought this year from S&M were the green five-pocket cords, but not for lack of trying. I've missed out on probably five other pairs because they've all been sold out within a few days of dropping.
 

saskatoonjay

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*Final thought as I re-read my post. The left side (wearing) pocket may be a hair lower than the right. This could be exacerbated by how I'm standing, but I'm sure someone will be along to draw colored lines so we can all weigh in :)
Dear gawd I hope not.
 

Spaghettimatt

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This thread really tends to attract some insane takes. A guy gets a faulty pair of trousers on an MTO program pilot run and we jump to worker mistreatment? Is there even an established correlation between labor conditions and QC?

And yes there is certainly correlation between a garment’s price and the conditions under which it was made. But let’s be careful not to overstate that. This bullshit happens all the time with Italian luxury goods. Just today: http://well-spent.com/armani-saint-laurent-fendi-linked-italian-sweatshop/

And what’s with demanding to know how a company keeps its prices so low? Do you make the same demands of SuitSupply?

Doubt it even matters. Even if Rick admitted tomorrow to working child slaves 18 hours a day to add belt loops to your balmacaans, you cheap skates would still splash out the minute that 20% Black Friday coupon drops.
 

FlyingHorker

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This thread really tends to attract some insane takes. A guy gets a faulty pair of trousers on an MTO program pilot run and we jump to worker mistreatment? Is there even an established correlation between labor conditions and QC?

And yes there is certainly correlation between a garment’s price and the conditions under which it was made. But let’s be careful not to overstate that. This bullshit happens all the time with Italian luxury goods. Just today: http://well-spent.com/armani-saint-laurent-fendi-linked-italian-sweatshop/

And what’s with demanding to know how a company keeps its prices so low? Do you make the same demands of SuitSupply?

Doubt it even matters. Even if Rick admitted tomorrow to working child slaves 18 hours a day to add belt loops to your balmacaans, you cheap skates would still splash out the minute that 20% Black Friday coupon drops.
Speak for yourself.

Poor working conditions in China and India aren't exactly uncommon.
 

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