- Jul 12, 2012
- Reaction score
The degree of consistency you're looking for only exists in very small batch manufacturing. There is always going to be manufacturing tolerances from season to to season, fabric to fabric and from factory to factory. Measurements are a fair guideline and a good gauge, but there is a +/- variation (generally 1 cm). If you have one jacket on the + side and the other jacket on the - side of the variation, then naturally, when comparing the two you will see/feel a noticeable difference. I'm not saying this as an excuse, this is just how any mass manufacturing in apparel works. The same is said for Suitsupply or J.Crew or Bonobos or anyone at a similar price point. We try to price the items to take into account a bit of tailoring on every piece so that even after tailoring, you're still ahead of the game. Some pieces you will need to let out, others will need to be nipped in.Here's my experience with the 42R Contemporary and Slim jackets. If there's one thing S&M needs to perfect, it's consistency in product. When I look at the three unaltered jackets hanging in my closet, two of them 42R C and one of the 42R S, there's a visible difference in all three. One is too long and big all around, the other is the perfect fit, and the last one is too short and tight.
The measurements on the website between the contemporary and slim jackets have a very, very minor difference (something around 0.3"); but when I tried on the 42R Slim, it was a much bigger difference than the measurements online lead me to believe.
In a nutshell, there is no concise answer here. The best way to figure out if the jacket will fit is to order it and try it on. And until S&M gets sizing consistency right, you and I will have to order + return to get every new jacket right - and in my case - if it's OOS and I really want it, send it off to the tailor and hope they'll work some magic on it!
EDIT: The safest thing to do is always to order the Contemporary and have the tailor adjust it to how you want it to look.