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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by spiermackay, Mar 14, 2014.

  1. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

    Messages:
    3,132
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2011
    Location:
    New York, NY
    I got my first S&M shirt.
    Light Blue & White Oban Stripe.
    Pictures are below. This is after one wash in warm water then hung to dry. I think I need to make several adjustments and would love to hear your input.

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    1. The collar is too big by about 0.5 to 0.25 inch.
    2. The shoulders are too narrow by 0.5 to 1 inch.
    3. The armhole is too small/high. Needs to be increased by 0.5 to 1 inch.
    4. I wouldn't mind taking in the waist a bit. 0.5 inch. Maybe add some darts.
    5. Sleeves should be longer. 0.5 inch.
    6. Corrections for forward/sloping shoulders.

    Issues that I hope these changes will fix, but am unsure about.
    1. Horizontal lines/puckering at yoke.
    2. Diagonal lines from armpit to collar in front and back.
    3. Tightness in bicep/armpit when I raise my arms.

    Pros.
    Collar is great. Looks good buttoned or unbuttoned.
    Construction is great.
    Great pattern.

    Cons.
    I'm not a fan of the fabric. It feels kind of brittle and overly smooth. It was one of the cheapest fabrics available. I think it's fine at that price point though.

    I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts about the fit. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. dappercanadian

    dappercanadian Senior member

    Messages:
    969
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2014
    .
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2016
  3. dappercanadian

    dappercanadian Senior member

    Messages:
    969
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    Apr 11, 2014
    
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    1,894
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    Your adjustments are pretty accurate. I would slope your shoulders 1/4". Take in the waist at the back panel only, no need for darts.

    RE: The fabric. That is 100% Egyptian, 70 singles compacted yarn. It's pretty much the equivalent to 2 Ply 140's in weight and performance. The poplin weave, by nature is very smooth, very silky. But I assure you it's not brittle. It's quite resilient. The more you wash and wear it the more it will break in and become a favorite. We've been running that cloth for almost 5 years without incident.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2016
  5. 7_rocket

    7_rocket Senior member

    Messages:
    2,338
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    Apr 26, 2009
    Location:
    Toronto
    Rick,

    I have a engagement party and 2 weddings this year. When will your new suits be coming out? Engagement party is in March
     
  6. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    1,894
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    Mid to end of Feb.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. clarksdb

    clarksdb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,475
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Will newer suits feature wider lapels for the slim cut?
     
  8. ShawnBC

    ShawnBC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,506
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    Mar 21, 2014
    Location:
    Qu├ębec, Canada
    Can't wait to see what's going to be available!
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. vespertiliovir

    vespertiliovir Active Member

    Messages:
    30
    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2015
    

    Does that include the full canvas?
     
  10. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    Full Canvas will be April-ish. Production will start only after the Chinese New Year.
     
  11. vespertiliovir

    vespertiliovir Active Member

    Messages:
    30
    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2015
    Thanks for the reply. I'm getting married in September and would like to wear one of the full canvases; glad to hear they'll be available!
     
  12. DomoKun

    DomoKun Member

    Messages:
    12
    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2015
    Hey Rick, when will you be getting light blue birdseye and bright medium blue in 46 again? Also is the grey Birdseye year round wool?
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2016
  13. fieldofdreams

    fieldofdreams Senior member

    Messages:
    847
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2015
    Location:
    Encino, CA
    I ordered three custom shirts with extreme spread unfused collars. Rick said mine will be the first they've done that way. I'm pretty stoked to get them. I think they ship today. I'll update everyone when I get them.
     
  14. winghus

    winghus Senior member

    Messages:
    113
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2015
    Location:
    North Carolina, USA
    When did you order them? My order will be 4 weeks tomorrow and I wanted to get an idea what production time is looking like. I'm sure they got swamped with orders during the Boxing Day discount, that's when I ordered mine.
     
  15. fieldofdreams

    fieldofdreams Senior member

    Messages:
    847
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2015
    Location:
    Encino, CA
    

    Same here. It's been for weeks and a few days.
     
  16. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    

    Our normal custom shirt processing time is 4-6 weeks. We did get slammed the entire period from black Friday through our boxing day deals. We admit we're not the fastest, but the overall value can't be beat. We're still pretty much in line for most orders.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2016
  17. clarksdb

    clarksdb Senior member

    Messages:
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    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    I recall many of the custom fabrics were out of stock in December. Are they back in stock now? There wasn't a vast selection because of this.
     
  18. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    

    Just started restocking now. New designs and replenishments should start coming by next week.
     
  19. winghus

    winghus Senior member

    Messages:
    113
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2015
    Location:
    North Carolina, USA
    I wasn't complaining. Since he thought his shipped today, I just wanted to know when he ordered to see if he was part of the big sale or ordered before then. I fully expected it to take the full 6 weeks since the combo/discount was such a great deal I know a lot of people jumped on it.
     
  20. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    Not taken as a complaint at all. I just wanted to make clear to folks who may be reading this thread for the first time about our turnaround time. :)
     

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