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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by spiermackay, Mar 14, 2014.

  1. Spex

    Spex Senior member

    Messages:
    570
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    Jun 13, 2013
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Yeah, sorry for sounding like a real jerk in my post! [​IMG]

    I'm sure for those who wear the collars without tie the stiffer version makes a lot of sense style wise. I only wear my spread collars with a tie, and have become so accustomed to my unlined ones that I'm not used to anything else! I do appreciate the level of customization you guys offer. Simply fantastic. I've PM'd you to work on the changes to my shirt. I'm in no huge hurry and want to get it right so that I can order future shirts with ease...
     
  2. xcaber11

    xcaber11 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2016
    Full time lurker, first time poster haha. Actually created an account because the site was down.

    Just wanted to say, I've been a big fan of Spier & Mackay. Got my first taste when they rolled out the slim fit dress shirts. At first the quality wasn't the greatest (weak material quality, buttons literally falling off) on the off the rack shirts, but they've improved significantly.

    Closet is slowly being flooded with them as they're my go-to for work. Really like the subtle improvements recently with the second button being positioned higher, etc.

    Sort of dabbling in the off the rack suits, the slim line is ok so far, I think they could narrow the pant leg at the ankle a bit, and increase the sleeve length on the jackets a tad. Also, in my opinion, the pants have too many belt notches around the waist. Just my small suggestions but I can't complain, considering it's not MTM or bespoke. Overall these guys are doing big things.

    Best of luck Rick, all the best for 2016!
     
  3. thinksnow

    thinksnow New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2016
    I just got my Navy Model 2 suit and thought I would get some fit feedback. Based on my limited knowledge, the suit seems very nice considering the prices during their 20% off sale and the current exchange rate. This size is a 40S. My only other suit to compare is a 38S Napoli.

    What I see:
    1) I get very slight pulling at button/ waist. I can make it look right in the mirror, but the second I move it shows up. Should this be let out some? Is there material to do this?
    2) Sleeves need to be shortened 3/8"
    3) Jacket length is something I am generally confused about. I debated weather I need a short or not, but a standard length would involve more serious sleeve shortening. I am not sure how well the button detail removes and the sleeve vent (if that is what it's called?) would need to be moved.

    Note that I didn't undo the rear vent stitches yet as I don't know if a return is okay after doing so.

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  4. Chambertin

    Chambertin Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 12, 2014
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Congrats! I think the fit is pretty great. I don't see a problem with the length or the waist/buttoning. Agree sleeves could be hemmed a touch.

    The shoulders seem a bit odd, like they're collapsing in on themselves. Look at the last pic from the back. I think it's caused by the fact that your stance looks like it leans back a bit (2nd pic.)
    I wish I could suggest how to fix it though I'm nitpicking which I'm hoping is what you're looking for.
     
  5. thinksnow

    thinksnow New Member

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    Jan 13, 2016
    Thanks, nitpicking is what I came here for.

    I think my natural stance has my shoulders pulled back my than average, which causes issues. I haven't found a brand/style that really addresses this. The back of the arms show this. You might be on to something about the shoulder/ back position causing the should funkiness.
     
  6. Spex

    Spex Senior member

    Messages:
    570
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2013
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    For a suit I would want a longer jacket length. I think shortening the sleeves wouldn't be that big an issue. If it was just a sport coat, I could probably live with it. I would go for a 40R. The buttoning point might be a tad lower on a 40R. Currently it's not terrible, but lower would look even better IMHO. I don't think the waist really needs to be let out.
     
  7. Ebichuman

    Ebichuman Senior member

    Messages:
    522
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2011
    Location:
    North and East from the centre
    ^ sorry but I have to disagree w/ Chambertin

    I don't think this is a very good fit. It makes you look pear shaped (the hip area). If you open the vents it may help the jacket fall better, though.

    I would also suggest to go with regular instead of short. You need to shorten sleeve anyway so why not get a slightly longer jacket to elongate your silhouette? An inch in length could do wonders.

    The back of the jacket and the back of the sleeves worry me a bit, too but I don't know what the issue might be there, hopefully Rick or someone more knowledgeable will chime in.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  8. Ebichuman

    Ebichuman Senior member

    Messages:
    522
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2011
    Location:
    North and East from the centre
    But I do agree with Spex :teach:
     
  9. burgerkong

    burgerkong Senior member

    Messages:
    386
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2011
    Location:
    Markham, Ontario, Canadeh
    Hey Rick (and others), just got a popup regarding malware on your site (was using Chrome):

    [​IMG]

    EDIT: Dur, I'm an idiot, should've read a couple pages back.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2016
  10. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    1,894
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    The problem has already been found and fixed. Confirmed by both our web developer and SEO Company. The website is perfectly safe to visit. Google takes about 48 hours after we submit to lift the warning as they want to verify that the problem has been found.

    The problem wasn't with www.spierandmackay.com, it was on spiermackay.com, a domain that we use for testing, but because they are on the same server and have several shared folders, Google flagged it. But the problem has been fixed. The site is safe.
     
  11. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    1,894
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    @thinksnow , the two areas that we can see right away are a bit of excess fabric at your upper back. Also, your sleeve needs to be pitched back a tiny bit. It looks like you have an upright posture with your shoulders pulled back slightly. These can be corrected by a decent tailor.

    I also suggest to change to the Regular Length as it will lower the button stance and give you more of a traditional jacket length for your torso. Adjusting the sleeve 3/8" or 1" is essentially the same amount of work for any good tailor.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. thinksnow

    thinksnow New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2016
    Rick, thank you very much for the feedback.

    When you say pitch the sleeve back, does that involve removal of the sleeve and sewing it back on in the correct orientation? Maybe I should learn to hunch forward, it makes most jackets fit me much better.

    Does the sleeve button stitching come out without a problem?

    I need to find a good tailor in the Boston area, anyone have a recommendations? This is seems like it is going to be a bit more involved than shortening sleeves.

    I will probably get an idea of the cost of these alteration and then do an exchange for the regular length if the cost isn't terrible.
     
  13. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    1,894
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    Yes, pitch correction involves removing the sleeve, rotating it and sewing it back on. We do it in house for $40 CAD. The button stitching comes out and vanishes when properly steam pressed.

    BR,
    Rick
     
  14. thinksnow

    thinksnow New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2016
    Quote: My guess is I will be lucky to find someone competent to rotate the sleeves for less than $100 USD and more likely $150.

    I'll have to check a few places out in the Boston area. I should probably find a tailor that can do this, because most jackets would fit me better if I had this done.

    I am thinking I should just plan to visit family up in Toronto at some point :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    1,894
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    We'd love to see you! Stop in anytime.

    But, if you have the same problem in most jackets, it's attributed to your shoulders and pitch.
     
  16. aridhol

    aridhol Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2010
    Location:
    Victoria BC
    Just got my first custom shirt from S&M and I've worn it a couple times to work. I am really happy with the quality and the feel and to my newbie eye's the fit seems ok. I'd like to get some feedback on potential alterations before I give the ok for my others to be made.

    p.s. it's been worn twice and hasn't been ironed sorry!

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  17. doodledoc

    doodledoc Senior member

    Messages:
    420
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2014
    Location:
    Los Angeles, California

    Reduce the width of the shirt sleeve cuff. It almost slides down to your first thumb knuckle. I would ask Rick on how you determine what the correct width is.

    I am not sure what the problem is with the front shoulder area (where there are lots of creasing). Maybe it's because it's not ironed. Iron it and see if it is still there.

    Move around in your shirt. Sit down in it (when you sit, check if the waist constricts and gets uncomfortable). Type on the computer while wearing it. Raise your hand, simulate you're driving a car. Reach for something that is on a shelf. Make sure that you're able to do all of these actions comfortably. This is something I wish I knew after I ordered my first MTM shirt.
     
  18. aridhol

    aridhol Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2010
    Location:
    Victoria BC
    

    Thanks :)
    I can do all those actions without difficulty.
    I'll iron the shirt and see if the creases are still there, I didn't notice in the mirror when I was wearing it.
    Do you mean reduce just the cuff or the width of the shirt at the forearm too?
     
  19. ahjota

    ahjota Senior member

    Messages:
    2,592
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    Location:
    Portland
    ^ You could maybe have the forearm slimmed down too, if you like, but definitely have the cuff size changed.
     
  20. doodledoc

    doodledoc Senior member

    Messages:
    420
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2014
    Location:
    Los Angeles, California
    The cuff. If you feel that the forearm is too big, then that can be reduced also. But definitely the cuff width needs to be reduced.
     

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