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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by spiermackay, Mar 14, 2014.

  1. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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    New York, NY
    Thank you. Good to know. I'll send these back and try the newer ones at some point. There aren't many options in size 30 contemporary fit at the moment. I appreciate your help. [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Burke

    Burke Well-Known Member

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    Jun 12, 2015
    


    I agree. For me the bicep may be a touch big and I'm not even sure if that's the case. Definitely couldn't go any smaller in the chest.
     
  3. DomoKun

    DomoKun Member

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    So just got my camel flannel suit in contemporary fit and I love it, but one huge glaring problem. I'm wondering maybe it's because I'm a sartorial newbie but the arm holes feel much too high for me. Should I have gone for classic fit and had it tailored down? The overall fit is great, only need to get sleeves shortened but I have that problem with most jackets. The high arm holes mean its awkward for me to put it on..
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2015
  4. yanagi

    yanagi Senior member

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    Does it feel easier to move in after you've put it on?
     
  5. DomoKun

    DomoKun Member

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    It's a little tighter than I think it should be but only slightly, within acceptable limits to my eyes. For example when button up it has a slight V at the top button and doesn't look too tight to me. I'll try to take some pictures when I have a chance.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2015
  6. Otte

    Otte Member

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    Dec 17, 2015
    Oh I definitely agree on the chest. That was what I was trying to say. Most people with our chest size generally do not have a big enough arms/waist to fill the current 14.5 shirts, from what I've seen at least.
     
  7. clarksdb

    clarksdb Senior member

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    Is it normal for the lapel to overlap onto the pocket square pocket? It covers some of the pocket square. What is the solution to this?
     
  8. fieldofdreams

    fieldofdreams Senior member

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    Encino, CA
    

    It's normal. Go the the what are you wearing thread. You will find plenty of examples of this.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. clarksdb

    clarksdb Senior member

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    True, I thought so. Pocket square gets half covered but if it's normal then that's okay.
     
  10. Spex

    Spex Senior member

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    Toronto, Canada
    This may be the first time on SF that I've heard someone complain that armholes were too high! If you've never had a jacket like this before then putting it on will feel a bit awkward at first, but as asked by yanagi, it's really all about how it feels once it's on. You'll probably get used to it and it'll look 100x better than armholes that are too low.
     
  11. DomoKun

    DomoKun Member

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    Well....I just figured that having to contort one arm and shoulder to get your jacket on meant arm holes were too high. I'm use the department store polyester crap that obviously were big and you could easily put on without having to worry how to put it on.


    EDIT::

    Okay, so I think overlayed the S&M jacket over my a bit big regular fit department store jacket that I never got tailored down. My old jacket I can fit my entire hand between the top button and my stomach (too big). The S&M jacket only 3 fingers. Also the chest underneath the arm hole is about an inch wider as well compared to S&M.

    So, I'm guessing I need to have the jacket let out just a tad bit on below the chest, and that should help with the arm hole issue and me having trouble putting it on. Wondering how much material there is for the jacket to be let out.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2015
  12. clarksdb

    clarksdb Senior member

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    My first S&M suit. This is the navy-gray suit in slim fit worn for the first time:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2015
    2 people like this.
  13. jamie411

    jamie411 Senior member

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    Totally normal. Solution: throw your pocket square in there and don't worry about it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Jul 12, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    The contemporary is an updated, modern fit. So it is slimmer than "Classic" Full Cut suits. Naturally, these cuts have higher armholes. That said, a decent tailor can open the armhole a tiny bit for extra comfort if needed. There is generous margin at the centre seam and a small, workable margin on the side seams.

    Opening the jacket by 1/2" can have huge differences in fit and comfort for those right on the borderline.

    Hope this helps.
     
  15. toddl

    toddl Member

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    Oct 23, 2015
    Which of these two pictures would you say is more accurate? There is a very noticeable white balance/color saturation difference between the two...at least on my terrible quality monitor. I'm guessing the bottom one that leans more charcoal is closer to reality?
     
  16. clarksdb

    clarksdb Senior member

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    The first picture has an instagram filter. The second picture was not edited. It was very close to sunset and without flash so the color is IMO in between those two pictures.

    My brother got the basic navy color and mine is a bit lighter if that helps. It's a really nice blue navy. Not in the bright blue range but also not the classic navy. It is very versatile and will work in conservative environments.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. toddl

    toddl Member

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    Thanks, that's a great color. The suit fits you well too.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. losrockets

    losrockets Senior member

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    May 15, 2013
    Just have to pop in again to say how much I'm enjoying my core navy suit. Can't wait until summer (which in Houston will start any day now...) to start wearing the tobacco herringbone wool/linen suit. I know some folks are deterred by the flapped pockets but I'm going to wear the suit w/ flaps tucked in,


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. doodledoc

    doodledoc Senior member

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    Dec 31, 2014
    Location:
    Los Angeles, California
    How difficult is it to create patch pockets using fabric from a 2nd pair of trousers? The tobacco suit is inexpensive and I'm guessing the trousers are also inexpensive. I'm curious if a tailor could use the fabric from the 2nd pair of trousers to make two patch pockets.
     
  20. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    It's pretty easy. But you have to make sure that the flaps are covered by the new pocket. Take the flaps off completely and the jets will be more flexible.
     

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