1. Welcome to our newest affiliate vendors, Mangue Lucy and Sons of Henrey We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendors, Mangue Lucy, an international design collaboration based in Milan that focuses on creating fine ready-to-wear, sourcing top-quality materials and working with exceptional production facilities in Italy to offer honest, modern, and quality casual-wear, and Sons of Henrey a contemporary footwear brand, committed to producing a shoe of timeless elegance, at exceptional value.

SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by spiermackay, Mar 14, 2014.

  1. konix

    konix Senior Member

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    Eidos and Rota
     

  2. RickyTakhar

    RickyTakhar Senior Member

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    - Anglo Italian
    - Berg & Berg
    - Last & Lapel
    - The Armoury ( Ambrosi )
    - Eidos

    General things in common:
    - Side Adjusters
    - Pleats (Single or double)
    - Fuller thigh/ leg opening
    - Highest point of trouser intersects buttoning point of jacket to allow for a clean aesthetic (no shirt showing due to more open quarters of jackets)
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2018

  3. NoNameNecessary

    NoNameNecessary Senior Member

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    How much does Spier tailor charge for removing shoulder divot? I have shoulder divot in both slim and contemporary models
     

  4. gettoasty

    gettoasty Stylish Dinosaur

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    • Eidos - You probably know this already but refer to the Sal and Lorenzo model (Sal and Lorenzo come with suits or as separates)
    • H. Stockton (Regular Fit) - Has about 11" front rise for a size 32 I believe, which is a great starting point IMO. Great option for me to wear with belt as Eidos Sal and Lorenzo model has side tabs instead.
     

  5. CanadaCal

    CanadaCal Distinguished Member

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    Do you think SM could support a production run of a minimum 75-100 pair, per fabric in a high rise cut?

    You have an MTM program more affordable then all of those brands.

    Now, all things not being equal, and the fact that sales occur, I understand.

    But the product is there to be created if you want it to be, and if you want to pay for it. You should try it if you haven't.

    But I will say, I’ve been to the store many times.
    That model will not sell at retail. And I’m not sure online/SF will drive a large enough demand to make the value feasible.

    But, I suppose time will tell.

    I think the tobacco fresco may be the start of something new. But Id bet many people will object to the pleats.
     

  6. hookem12387

    hookem12387 Distinguished Member

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    I have not been to the store and don't know what the made to measure suit options are, but can this be cured by going that route? Can you, for instance, raise the armhole, bring up the rise, and fill out a knee via made to measure? It's not an off the rack solution but it's a work around.
     

  7. spiermackay

    spiermackay Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    This. This is more of an exercise for the upcoming MTO rather than OTR. The general consumer HATES high rise trousers, as do their spouses and girl friends, who influence a lot of what they eventually purchase. The market for these trousers is too niche. We will try them with a couple of pairs and see how they sell, but I think Epaulet even tried and it flopped??
     

  8. gettoasty

    gettoasty Stylish Dinosaur

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    Is 11" front considered high? I'd be happy with that in different fabric offerings
     

  9. spiermackay

    spiermackay Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    on what size?
     

  10. gettoasty

    gettoasty Stylish Dinosaur

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  11. CanadaCal

    CanadaCal Distinguished Member

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    In my opinion, no not really. I’m referring more to the 12”+ stuff.

    And Epaulet did and does offer higher rise with pleats. Through Hertling and now Southwick. Thy are beautiful products BTw.

    But only MTO, didn’t sell well enough OTR in basic fabrics like a cotton twill or flannel.

    But some of these other brands are selling through pretty well. So who knows. Certainly an online thing only.
     

  12. spiermackay

    spiermackay Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    The higher rise on the tobacco fresco will have 11" on a 32 contemporary.
     

  13. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    It's q bit cold today in Mexico, so it's suitable for this jacket but not for a flannel trouser. I opted for a heavier sharskin.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2018

  14. Wilson13

    Wilson13 Senior Member

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    A happy medium may be somewhere between 11" and 11.5", with enough fabric that the crotch can be let out - I have done this successfully to create a higher rise. At least with the Neapolitan cut...
     

  15. Wilson13

    Wilson13 Senior Member

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    @jtorres94
    This is the closest I could get. It’s probably actually somewhere between this and the other pictures I posted.

    76E7835B-BF29-4904-B3A2-7C28F3FFBFF6.jpeg
     

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