SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by spiermackay, Mar 14, 2014.

  1. georgeclooney

    georgeclooney New Member

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    Agreed with this point 100%. Would prefer a high quality work horse wool material (110 is good) full canvas - that is the niche right there. I wouldn't buy a Navy suit to wear once awhile...I buy it to wear everyday/ other day...
     
  2. aglose

    aglose Senior member

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    This would also be a workhorse suit for me as well so the 110s would be more of what I would be interested in purchasing as well.
     
  3. spiermackay

    spiermackay Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    The community has spoken. I'll get the sample done up in a 110s! Democratization of style! Fantastic way to develop products.
     
  4. aglose

    aglose Senior member

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    Not to say that after you sell a bunch of them maybe going to a higher tier fabric after the first few rounds of production or maybe for certain seasonal fabrics would be cool.
     
  5. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    I know I'm late to the party here, but YES.

    Right now the only Canadian option I know for full-canvas under $1000 is to wait for Samuelsohn to go on sale at HR. Normally most are 999-1199+

    Other than that, there's the option of ordering from out of country (duties, US exchange, and inability to try on in person are all significant downsides).

    I agree with @Ebichuman , the cut is there now. The Model 2 was really good. I've worn my Model 1 suit pretty hard for a year now (often wearing the jacket sitting down, etc) and I haven't seen any issues with the lining, though. Got complemented on the suit on Thursday.

    Agree that VBC would be an ideal starter.Well recognized. Not too expensive for your margins (possibly?). I actually really like a lot of their fabrics. Loro Piana would also be a well-known brand to start with, but might be difficult to negotiate pricing with.

    The other nice thing about having an upper tier is that it allows you to retain all those customers that you got when they were first building a wardrobe. Eventually they'll get to the point - like me - where they have working selection of suits, a working seleciton of sport coats, and are getting more and more selective about what they buy. Also, it gives you something to sell to the Bay Streeters who are used to HR and super 130's, 140's.
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2015
  6. spiermackay

    spiermackay Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Just firmed up the first sample. The supplier had some 110's by Reda, so I am having them go ahead with that.

    Just for the first sample round, here is what we are going with:

    Same cut as the Model 2 (sample in contemporary fit, 40R)
    Lapel: 9.5 cm (3 3/4") Lapel (just for sampling, curious to see how it comes out, can always dial it back for the production run)
    Barchetta chest pocket - same as Model 2,
    Back Leaning Shoulder Seam - Same as Model 2
    Open Quarters - same as Model 2
    Double Vent
    Polished Bullhorn Buttons
    Subtle AMF/Pickstitch on collar, lapels, chest pocket, pockets, vents, sleeve cuff, front darts and shoulder seam
    Hand finishing on Collar, armholes & lining anchors.

    Lightweight, soft and pliable canvas
    Very minimal shoulder padding/natural shoulder - Tailor mentioned they have several construction options for this. I asked for standard and will discuss with them alternatives when I visit them in August.

    Sample should be ready in about a month. Exciting!
     
  7. 02///M3

    02///M3 Senior member

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    Sounds killer. Can't wait to see/hear how it turns out.
     
  8. aglose

    aglose Senior member

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    Sounds fantastic. Exactly what I am looking for.
     
  9. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    Description sounds great, but might want to dial back the pick stitching on the full production run. Collar, lapel, all pockets, and shoulder are nice, but I feel like the darts, vents, and cuffs are overkill... Shoulder pick stitching is as fancy as I get, and would already make the suit a little different.

    Would be cool to see the 3.75" lapel. Some feel 3.75 is too much, but I like it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2015
  10. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    It really depends on the size. It would be fine on a 44R, but a bit much on a 36S IMO. Also, excessive pick stitching falls under the same heading as "cheap luxury fabric" for me.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2015
  11. Ebichuman

    Ebichuman Senior member

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    Agree wholeheartedly on the pick stitching, rick's proposal sounds way over the top. In many applications too much pick stitching just ends up looking cheap (and now that it's mostly machine done you can see it migrate down from the top line levels). I'd dial back to, for sure.
     
  12. mmmtttt

    mmmtttt Senior member

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    Now please make it in long versions and I'll get 5 of those.
     
  13. spiermackay

    spiermackay Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    It's just on the sample to see how it pans out. We've done it this way countless of times on custom suits and because it's so subtle it almost goes unnoticed, but adds just that little bit of extra depth to an otherwise plain suit. The only additional pick we are adding is on the dart and shoulder, we currently run the pick everywhere else. But, as stated before, we're not married to it, just looking to see how it ends up.

    Again, it's just the first sample. We normally sample 2-3 times before we even start production on anything new. Initial sample, revised sample then pre-production sample. Lots of time still to make any changes.

    That said, we are making this item for the enthusiasts, so you have our full attention. [​IMG]
     
  14. losrockets

    losrockets Senior member

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    Looking forward to seeing how the sample turns out. Thanks for being so receptive! Any more releases planned for this summer/when can we expect more new stuff?
     
  15. CMAc7

    CMAc7 Senior member

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    Seconding @losrockets. Let's see some swatches of some of the new stuff too if possible.
     

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