Spier & MacKay MTM Suit Style Questions

[Drewski]

Gents,

Hoping you can help me out with design/style (see below for my size, generally)...I'm going to purchase a MTM suit (not a tux) for my wedding (June 5) in Annapolis, MD (I live in the DC area). They've said the lead time is 6-8 weeks so I need to get my order in now. My questions are:

Fabric:

• What's appropriate. Do I need to do sharkskin? Note, I want to stay in the navy-ish range.

Jacket

• Style: Standard/Normal Sportcoat/Neopolitan/Peak Lapel, etc.? (no double breast)
• Canvas: Half/full?
• Lining: I presume full?
• Jacket Pocket: Which is the most formal?
• Packet Pitch Stitch: Which is the most formal?
• Buttons (color): Black or dark natural horn?

Trouser

• Belt loops or side tabs? I'm thinking side tabs but not sure. With side tabs do you typically wear suspenders?

Shirt

• Collar Spread: Thoughts?
• Cuffs: I'm thinking french but let me know if I should go for something else.
• Plackets: I'm thinking hidden but please let me know if I should go for something else.
• Back pleats: I'm thinking side but please let me know if I should go for something else.
• Pocket: I'm thinking no front pocket but please let me know if I should go for something else

Sizing (Generally):

• I'm 5-10, athletic build (17 1/2-18" neck) but could stand to lose a few lbs. I'm hoping to be down to 240. Back in my 20's when I was 180lbs (and thin) I was a size 41R (per my Brooks Brothers Suit).
• Measurements: Will the lady at the local dry-cleaners (who does alterations) measure these correctly? If not, who should I go to?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Are you going into the store to get measured (thus full MTM) or are you using their online MTO ordering platform?

If the latter, I would order some jackets in various sizes first to get a sense of what your base size is and what needs altering on that base size. I would NOT play the guessing game with a) your local tailor taking your measurements, or b) what your weight MIGHT be four months from now.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Also, why do you need MTM? You seem like you have pretty average measurements. Why not just get a Spier suit off the rack?

For example, this is a great navy summer suit in a beloved cloth that is still available in larger sizes (40-46 range).

Minnis - Navy Fresco | SPIER & MACKAY

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

 

[Drewski]

Are you going into the store to get measured (thus full MTM) or are you using their online MTO ordering platform?

If the latter, I would order some jackets in various sizes first to get a sense of what your base size is and what needs altering on that base size. I would NOT play the guessing game with a) your local tailor taking your measurements, or b) what your weight MIGHT be four months from now.

The thought was their MTO ordering platform. Can't get to Toronto and/or Ontario.

 

[Drewski]

Also, why do you need MTM? You seem like you have pretty average measurements. Why not just get a Spier suit off the rack?

For example, this is a great navy summer suit in a beloved cloth that is still available in larger sizes (40-46 range).

Minnis - Navy Fresco | SPIER & MACKAY

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

I'm a size 50/51, and their off the rack is limited to a max of 48, I believe.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I'm a size 50/51, and their off the rack is limited to a max of 48, I believe.

Ah okay. I’m sorry for assuming.

Others may differ but my view is that you’re risking disaster if you’re doing a first time MTO with a 6-8 week lead time (assuming no COVID disaster) when your wedding is ~11 weeks away. Is there a suit supply near you that offers something that might fit off the rack?

 

[Drewski]

Ah okay. I’m sorry for assuming.

Others may differ but my view is that you’re risking disaster if you’re doing a first time MTO with a 6-8 week lead time (assuming no COVID disaster) when your wedding is ~11 weeks away. Is there a suit supply near you that offers something that might fit off the rack?

Yeah, I think there is but I believe they're much pricier. My thought is that my best man (the only groomsman) would also get a suit so I'm trying to be mindful of spend (he's not one to spend $800+ on a suit).

But, if you're saying that you think I'm playing with fire I have no problem going to Suit Supply.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Yeah, I think there is but I believe they're much pricier. My thought is that my best man (the only groomsman) would also get a suit so I'm trying to be mindful of spend (he's not one to spend $800+ on a suit).

But, if you're saying that you think I'm playing with fire I have no problem going to Suit Supply.

It sounds like you and your best man are just looking for two decently-made, moderately priced blue suits. Given the time crunch + potential covid complications, it's definitely not a situation to mess around with custom products from the internet made off of measurements taken by the dry cleaner seamstress who does not GAF about you and just wants to patch up people's jeans all day until she can go home. Off the top of my head, for the DC area you can go to one of two SuitSupplys, one in DC and one in that high-end mall at Tysons Corner. With your dimensions, probably only their Napoli fit will work for you, as the rest are more for emaciated 6'3" 130lb Dutchmen who live on their bikes and skates. Fortunately, their Napoli includes several very nice blue and gray suits, and go up to like a size 50R. Also, if one of the slim / ultra-slim suits catch your eye but is too tight/small for you, they can usually take that fabric from their stock and make it for you in the template and size that does fit your frame in just a few weeks for a small fee, and unlike the online gamble, you will know that it will fit you when it comes.

If SuitSupply doesn't work, Nordstrom will probably get the job done. The one at Pentagon City was my go-to when I lived there, and I bet they can find a workhorse Hart Schaffner Marx suit that you two will like, for something like $400 - $800, which you can use long after your wedding. HSM is half-canvased, fully-lined with straight flap pockets, medium lapels, two vents, a lightly padded shoulder, and pants with belt loops. Their in-house tailor will be able to dial in the pants, sleeves, and torso for you as well as add suspender buttons, all for a nominal fee.

 

[dieworkwear]

I think Suitsupply MTM is a bad idea.

You received some good info in the other thread you started. I think Despos gave some particularly good advice. I don't have a strong opinion on whether you should go RTW or MTM given your size. But I think sub-$800 MTM is a bad idea.

I have seen lots of guys get MTM suits at the last minute. The thing ends up being a disaster. They are then left with even less money and fewer options.

 

[norMD]

No need for a second thread on the same subject. You came asking for advice, no one recommend online MTM given your deadline... I would choose local rtw or rent/borrow something and the start the online mtm Journey when you have lots of time (and money).

 

[Drewski]

I think Suitsupply MTM is a bad idea.

You received some good info in the other thread you started. I think Despos gave some particularly good advice. I don't have a strong opinion on whether you should go RTW or MTM given your size. But I think sub-$800 MTM is a bad idea.

I have seen lots of guys get MTM suits at the last minute. The thing ends up being a disaster. They are then left with even less money and fewer options.

Appreciate your advice. After all the feedback, I'm going to try RTW (or potentially MTM, in person measuring) at Suit Supply since their 10 minutes from my home. I also plan to purchase RTW from Spier & Mackay as well (and will return if the fit doesn't work).

 

[Drewski]

No need for a second thread on the same subject. You came asking for advice, no one recommend online MTM given your deadline... I would choose local rtw or rent/borrow something and the start the online mtm Journey when you have lots of time (and money).

Thank you as well! You and DieWorkWear essentially are saying the same thing so I'll go that route.

 

[Drewski]

It sounds like you and your best man are just looking for two decently-made, moderately priced blue suits. Given the time crunch + potential covid complications, it's definitely not a situation to mess around with custom products from the internet made off of measurements taken by the dry cleaner seamstress who does not GAF about you and just wants to patch up people's jeans all day until she can go home. Off the top of my head, for the DC area you can go to one of two SuitSupplys, one in DC and one in that high-end mall at Tysons Corner. With your dimensions, probably only their Napoli fit will work for you, as the rest are more for emaciated 6'3" 130lb Dutchmen who live on their bikes and skates. Fortunately, their Napoli includes several very nice blue and gray suits, and go up to like a size 50R. Also, if one of the slim / ultra-slim suits catch your eye but is too tight/small for you, they can usually take that fabric from their stock and make it for you in the template and size that does fit your frame in just a few weeks for a small fee, and unlike the online gamble, you will know that it will fit you when it comes.

If SuitSupply doesn't work, Nordstrom will probably get the job done. The one at Pentagon City was my go-to when I lived there, and I bet they can find a workhorse Hart Schaffner Marx suit that you two will like, for something like $400 - $800, which you can use long after your wedding. HSM is half-canvased, fully-lined with straight flap pockets, medium lapels, two vents, a lightly padded shoulder, and pants with belt loops. Their in-house tailor will be able to dial in the pants, sleeves, and torso for you as well as add suspender buttons, all for a nominal fee.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll be making an appointment at SuitSupply since it's less than 10 mins away from me.

 

[classicalthunde]

Sometimes SuitSupply will not have the larger sizes in stock in their stores, I would call ahead and ask about Napoli and Sienna models (the two fullest fits) in size 50...if they don't have it in stock, maybe ask them if you can order online have it delivered to your house and then bring in for fitting and in-house tailoring

I would specifically mention that you are shopping for your wedding along with your best man, I've found that sales associates try and be as accommodating as possible when helping people for their big day

Also, since you're in DC you could also check out J. Press and Brooks Brothers, which while not as fashion forward as SuitSupply, it is around your budget and tends to have a roomier "classic" fit.

Also, I'd ask if J. Press includes basic alterations (BB used to, not sure if they do now) and compare that to SuitSupply's alteration prices (which can add up rather quickly) when comparing costs