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Spier and Mackay Slim vs Contemporary Style Fit

Dr_Dukcha

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Apr 12, 2021
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A while back I got myself a Size 42 Contemporary charcoal suit from Spier and Mackay.

I usually don't wear suits, but have recently had more occasions to wear one.

The charcoal sometimes felt a bit formal, so I wanted to find something a bit brighter.
I liked the fit of the charcoal (after shortening sleeves, and tapering trousers), so I decided to order same size from SM in a mix texture blue.
This Blue suit I got in Slim fit instead of Contemporary, since the shoulders were a bit wide, and the trousers had to be tapered on the charcoal suit.

However, after receiving the suit now, something seems a bit off to me.
While the trousers are much slimmer on the Slim Fit, the jacket actually seems larger (broader shoulders, larger sleeves, broader chest).

Neither, is of the Neapolitan cut, and both are from the FW19 collection.

How does this fit look to you? any suggestions on alterations that can help with the fit of the blue suit?
(I don't really know what is possible, but thought to ask for slimming the sleeves, and widening the trouser legs)

Blue Slim vs Charcoal Contemporary
Very slim trouser on blue suit, but jacket seems wider in waist, shoulders, and sleeves
Suit 1.png

Suit 2.png


Blue suit has broader shoulder, and wider sleeve
Suit 3.png

Blue suit sleeves seems baggy, even when holding my arm in a natural position, there is a "wrinkle" near the shoulder on the blue suit.
Suit 4.png


Blue = 42 slim, Charcoal = 42 contemporary
Anyone know the SM style codes? It is still weird to me that the blue "slim fit" suit, seems to have the more loose/broad fit in the jacket.
Suit 5.png


Thanks!
 

Dr_Dukcha

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I prefer the charcoal on you, but would prefer an even longer jacket and fuller trouser.
Thanks!
Yes, I prefer the charcoal as well.
I did not think I needed a longer jacket, but will consider it next time. (I feel a bit weird about ordering a 42L, since the sleeves already needs to be shortened quite a lot to fit me on the 42R).

The blue pants I really dislike, and is in general a bit puzzled that the pants arrived so much slimmer than the charcoal pair, while the jacket seems to be wider. It feels quite strange when wearing it.
 

bicycleradical

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I agree with @dieworkwear. The jacket could be longer and the charcoal definitely looks better. I wear a short size from S&M and it is a touch longer than your jackets look on you.
 

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