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Spectator shoes from vass

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nova, May 20, 2004.

  1. theodoro

    theodoro Member

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    Apr 5, 2004
    In response to JohnMS' message: ----------------------------------------------------------- Would you have pictures of these shoes? Â I've been trying to decide what to order from AE, but I'm intregued by the description of your saddle oxfords. Â I have a chili on chili sharkskin shelton as well as the burgundy/black and brown/chili, but would like to see what else they can do. if you have any photos. Â Thanks. ----------------------------------------------------------- Here are pics of the AE saddles I have: [[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] BTW: Â I am serious considering getting the aformentioned saddle shoes in white buck and brown leather. Teo
     
  2. JohnMS

    JohnMS Senior member

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    Regarding the first and third shoes, what year(s) were those purchased? I've spoken with AE in the past and they have quite a few leather options I wasn't aware of (black suede, blue suede, various shades of alligator, etc)

    Is elephant still available?
     
  3. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Theodoro,

    To resurrect this topic - the spectators I ordered were discontinued - what can you tell me about AE's custom program? AE themselves have answered only one of the e-mails I've sent them, unfortunately.

    Do you know if I can order, for example, a spectator-style shoe based on the 'Byron' or 'Park Avenue' cap-toe bal, with the toe-cap, facing and counter done in brown leather, and the vamp and quarters done in white?

    Or can I only order a two-tone shoe in an existing two-tone style? Will AE add perforations to a plain toe-cap? What's the price premium for made-to-order?

    Thanks.
     
  4. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    NickM - yes, A/E will switch leathers on an existing pattern so you can take the Byron or Park Ave. and detail it like you suggest. They will not change a detail on a pattern as all the patterns they make are cut with dies. However, if you want the Byron pattern made on the 5 last like the Park Ave., they can do that. The fee is 100.00$ above retail (total cost to you would be $385.00 in this case) and the time frame is usually 4-8 weeks. If you want this done, send me a note and I will get you the shoes. I have a question for you though; the Park Ave. and Byron done as specs would have white leather at the heel. This would be difficult to keep clean as the wear while driving, for example, would scuff out the white fairly easily. I did 4 custom Moreschi specs recently and they all have this same detail and I wondered outloud how the gentleman was going to keep the shoes looking sharp and it will be a challenge. Just something to consider.
     
  5. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    ok, that did'nt work - try again [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  6. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    harder than I thought [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  7. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice.. How much for the linen one??
     
  8. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Hmm. In my haste, I honestly didn't notice that neither model had a heel counter. Still, I have my heart set on a cap-toe bal spectator - can you put together the first R. Martegani spec in your post with a perforated cap-toe, in brown and white leather? If so, how much? E-mail me if you don't want to discuss prices on the forum...

    Thanks very much for your offer - as soon as I have the bucks spare, I'll drop you a line and place an order.

    EDIT: Can anyone tell me the differenc between AE's 'brown antibes' and 'brown eversnow' leathers?
     
  9. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    NickM - we can build it any way you want. Price would be somewhere around 375.00$, depending on the exchange rates at the time of order.

    Brown Eversnow is slightly softer than Antibes, but the difference is so slight I doubt anyone but a shoeperson would know the difference. I think A/E bought the leather from different tanneries, therfore the name difference even though the effect on the shoes is the same.

    AHarris - the R.Martegani line we are building for the shop is 325 - 350 $ out of my stock, 375 - 395 $ on custom/special orders. This is quickly becoming one of my favorite lines, right with Gravati.
     
  10. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Rider, could you compare and contrast Gravati and Martegani? I think that I'm pretty familiar with Gravati, but I've never heard of Martegani.
     
  11. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    R.Martegani is a very old factory who, like most Italian factories, will produce numerous types of footwear for different markets. What I am doing with them is taking traditional British patterns, traditional calfskins, in Black and a few shades of Brown with antiqueing whenever I can, and doing them on the Blake construction with beefier soles and welts on modern, but not over-the-top lasts. First pictures are being editied now and should appear on the site soon. Early delivery included a one-piece floating medallion blutcher on a chiseled last with elegant tucked waist.

    Sorry if this seems like an ad - but I can't answer any other way.
     
  12. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not a problem. I wouldn't have asked the question if I didn't want to see the answer. [​IMG] Could you compare Gravati to Martegani in terms of quality of leathers used, quality of construction, quality of finishing, and last shape?
     

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