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Spalla Camicia - The back view

dkzzzz

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I have read somewhere that this type of construction was favoured for travel jackets.
Moving while sitting is easier in this jacket than in traditional structered-shoulder jacket...
 

dopey

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Originally Posted by dkzzzz
I have read somewhere that this type of construction was favoured for travel jackets.
Moving while sitting is easier in this jacket than in traditional structered-shoulder jacket...


Hard to see how it makes any difference. I have suits from the same tailor made this way and the standard way. They feel the same.
 

meister

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tutee

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Originally Posted by iammatt
This particular fabric is a 10 oz fresco from Woodehouse.


Parise be where deserved! VERY nicely done matt. I am not a fan of this shoulder. I have seen very few examples of this done well in NY... usual circle of friends.

Does your tailor (who I think it is) stocks a large woodehouse selection or is it CMT?
 

itsstillmatt

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Originally Posted by tutee
Parise be where deserved! VERY nicely done matt. I am not a fan of this shoulder. I have seen very few examples of this done well in NY... usual circle of friends.

Does your tailor (who I think it is) stocks a large woodehouse selection or is it CMT?

Yes, almost all of the summer fabric that he stocks is Woodehouse. He seems to like it more than the alternatives.
 

dopey

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Originally Posted by dopey
Gotcha. I have three jackets made with a spalla camacia - one bespoke and two RTW. One of the RTW, maybe both, has lapped sleeve seams. I am pretty sure the bespoke one does not have lapped seams. I will check to see how the sleeves are inserted into the armscye.

I checked. None of them have lapped sleeve seams. The method of attachment does shift from the spalla camacia style to the more conventional method at about that point, on both sides.
 

Sator

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Originally Posted by meister
the suits I had made at a Neapolitan tailor in Sydney always looked like that

Who may I ask might that be? I must confess that I didn't know there was a Neapolitan tailor in Sydney. Adamo Marrone is from around Biella and I know of a couple of tailors from Sicily but nobody from Naples. The other day, Adamo showed me a lovely example of a sportcoat he had made with a spalla camicia.
 

don_andomo

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Matt, the jacket looks fantastic; the back is very clean. However, if I may make one small observation, it appears that the pattern matching between the collar and the back of the jacket is slightly off. I seem to recall a similar problem with your green tweed Rubinacci jacket, where the lines of the panes on the body didn't quite match the ones on the collar. Not sure if this is a maker specific problem or if it's just impossible to match patterns in a glen plaid jacket. Other members who are tailors might have a better opinion.
 

itsstillmatt

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My guess is that since the back is two pieces at an agle and the collar one piece straight that it becomes nearly impossible to match the patterns there. I am not a big proponent of pattern matching. It is necessary on jacket fronts and shirt frons, but shoulders, collars etc don't figure into my equation. I would rather a good fitting jacket than patterns that matched for the hell of it.
 

pejsek

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I'll go even farther than Matt on the pattern matching. I really actively dislike heroic attempts to get patterns to match up exactly everywhere and always. It's an attempt at control that invariably kills much of the charm of any garment. Can there be elegance without an element of deshabille? I would think not. Let the stripes fall where they may!
 

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