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Spalla Camicia - The back view

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by itsstillmatt, Jun 26, 2007.

  1. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There has been a lot of talk about the spalla camicia and what is a real one, a fake one, a RTW one, a padded one, an unpadded one etc. I took this picture and adjusted the light so that every shadow and crevice was visible. It is substantially more subtle in real life, but this back view should give a picture of what the idea of a shirt sleeve shoulder really is (or at least one of the things it can be... One thing to note is that as you can see from various WAYWT thread pictures, the front of the shoulder is much cleaner than the back. This is the traditional way to make such a shoulder. This particular fabric is a 10 oz fresco from Woodehouse. [​IMG] in particular here is a closeup of the lapped sleevehead which continues to the lapped sleeveseam where the sleevehead transitions to a more standard construction: [​IMG]
     
  2. TomW

    TomW Senior member

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  3. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    [​IMG]
    Is the seam that prominent in real life? or is it the lighting
     
  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is the seam that prominent in real life? or is it the lighting
    It is the lighting, but it is more prominent than you would see on most jackets. All of the seams on the jacket are lap seams other than the sleeve inseam. It is not glaring like in the picture though.... I am assuming that you mean the sleeve seam and not the sleevehead seam, but the answer is the same for both.
     
  5. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    nice matt, suits you very well
     
  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    It is the lighting, but it is more prominent than you would see on most jackets. All of the seams on the jacket are lap seams other than the sleeve inseam. It is not glaring like in the picture though.... I am assuming that you mean the sleeve seam and not the sleevehead seam, but the answer is the same for both.
    Thanks for the clarification - yes, I was referring to the sleeve seam (it looks several mm thick on the picture)
     
  7. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Perfecto! Thanks for sharing
     
  8. LSeca

    LSeca Senior member

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    Can someone be so kind to explain why this example of construction is important? I honestly do not know what we are looking at here, but would like to know.
     
  9. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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  10. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    . . .

    in particular here is a closeup of the lapped sleevehead which continues to the lapped sleeveseam where the sleevehead transitions to a more standard construction. . .


    Would you explain this a bit more fully. I am not following you. I understand the shirtsleeve seam at the sleevhead. I see the lapped sleeve seam . . . then what?
     
  11. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can someone be so kind to explain why this example of construction is important? I honestly do not know what we are looking at here, but would like to know.

    It is not important.

    It is just a type of construction that some people find interesting and many people talk about without knowing exactly what it is. The linked article will explain it in more detail. iamatt's post is just a very clear picture of a not-often-shown view (and it is a really nice jacket).
     
  12. rnoldh

    rnoldh Senior member

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    Beautiful look. Very simple, natural, and subdued which I really like.

    Who made this coat Matt?
     
  13. kcc

    kcc Senior member

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    Beautiful look. Very simple, natural, and subdued which I really like.

    Who made this coat Matt?



    London House, of course.
     
  14. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Would you explain this a bit more fully. I am not following you. I understand the shirtsleeve seam at the sleevhead. I see the lapped sleeve seam . . . then what?
    below the sleeve seam, the sleeve is inserted into the armhole as would be a normal jacket sleeve. the same for the front side. i think this is right, I am no expert.
     
  15. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    below the sleeve seam, the sleeve is inserted into the armhole as would be a normal jacket sleeve. the same for the front side. i think this is right, I am no expert.

    Gotcha. I have three jackets made with a spalla camacia - one bespoke and two RTW. One of the RTW, maybe both, has lapped sleeve seams. I am pretty sure the bespoke one does not have lapped seams. I will check to see how the sleeves are inserted into the armscye.
     
  16. dkzzzz

    dkzzzz Senior member

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    I have read somewhere that this type of construction was favoured for travel jackets.
    Moving while sitting is easier in this jacket than in traditional structered-shoulder jacket...
     
  17. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have read somewhere that this type of construction was favoured for travel jackets.
    Moving while sitting is easier in this jacket than in traditional structered-shoulder jacket...


    Hard to see how it makes any difference. I have suits from the same tailor made this way and the standard way. They feel the same.
     
  18. meister

    meister Senior member

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    http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/T...anShoulder.htm


    Thanks for that. That explains why the suits I had made at a Neapolitan tailor in Sydney always looked like that and I did not know why and had them altered to try and remove the "dimples". Yiiikkes I had a "spalla camicia" all along. Sono bruto!
     
  19. tutee

    tutee Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This particular fabric is a 10 oz fresco from Woodehouse.


    Parise be where deserved! VERY nicely done matt. I am not a fan of this shoulder. I have seen very few examples of this done well in NY... usual circle of friends.

    Does your tailor (who I think it is) stocks a large woodehouse selection or is it CMT?
     
  20. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Parise be where deserved! VERY nicely done matt. I am not a fan of this shoulder. I have seen very few examples of this done well in NY... usual circle of friends.

    Does your tailor (who I think it is) stocks a large woodehouse selection or is it CMT?

    Yes, almost all of the summer fabric that he stocks is Woodehouse. He seems to like it more than the alternatives.
     

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