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Spalla Camicia in RTW!

gshen

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Was just browsing through my dad's wardrobe for shits and giggles, and found something that might be of interest:







Fused, absolutely no handwork (neatly made though)... yet it features the much lauded spalla camicia! Surprisingly, the shoulders are also quite lightly padded, with the padding extending about 1.5" beyond the shoulder seam.

I wish I knew more about the jacket - alas, the only information I can find on the tags are the brand (Daniel Hechter!), fabric (100% linen) and the fabulous price - S$100 = US$77+. My father has never worn the jacket, and estimates the jacket to be 10-20 years old.

Has anyone else encountered vintage (low end?) RTW jackets with spalla camicia? Was this form of shoulder construction just another form of styling - like low gorge heights and narrow lapels, rather than a signal of quality as Styleforumz sees it today?
 

BBC

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Looks like standard "lower end" ivy-style clothing - I'm assuming no front darts. The spalla camicia is less interesting to me than the lapped/swelled shoulder seams, which is a very rare feature on "trad" style jackets (usually the main shoulder seam is the one that is swelled).
 

academe

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Interesting... I have spalla camica on a RTW jacket from Adriano & Sons and on a suit coat from Ravazzolo, but both these manufacturers are "higher-end"... Never seen this before on lower-end RTW!
 

upnorth

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In lower end clothing, this effect is not deliberate but the unfortunate by-product of poorly cut patterns in order to fit the sleeves onto the shoulders. Of course one can look at the glass as half full.
 

gshen

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Originally Posted by upnorth
In lower end clothing, this effect is not deliberate but the unfortunate by-product of poorly cut patterns in order to fit the sleeves onto the shoulders. Of course one can look at the glass as half full.

Im calling BS on this....

the 'waterfall' effect does not result from a poor fit of sleeves but rather because both seam allowances are on the shoulder side, and there is nothing to support the sleeve from falling like it does. Manton explained it better here.

This is exactly how the jacket's shoulder is constructed (again, credits to Manton):



It may be cheap and machine made, but it's still spalla camicia..
 

TRINI

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I think if you view it simply as 'shirt-sleeve' construction rather than the more exotic spalla camicia, you'll find it existing in the real world more often than you'd think.
 

apropos

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Originally Posted by upnorth
In lower end clothing, this effect is not deliberate but the unfortunate by-product of poorly cut patterns in order to fit the sleeves onto the shoulders. Of course one can look at the glass as half full.
What.
Originally Posted by TRINI
I think if you view it simply as 'shirt-sleeve' construction rather than the more exotic spalla camicia, you'll find it existing in the real world more often than you'd think.
Bingo.

I guess it's only when you pay $7k for them that it suddenly becomes a big deal. On SF at least.
 

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