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Southwick. The Cambridge.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Knox, Nov 20, 2011.

  1. Knox

    Knox Senior member

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    Well, I suppose that, with the recent resurgence of the so-called "Ivy League," or, more simply, "Ivy" look, it was only a matter of time. Southwick, already an established natural shoulder clothing maker, will, in the near future, offer a model that features 5/16" top stitching, lapped seams, a center hook(ed) vent, a narrow (between 2.5" and 3") lapel, and a comparatively narrow point-to-point shoulder width. I trust it goes without saying that the jacket is undarted, and features a 3-button "tipover" front. No need to order a Douglas model through made-to-measure in order to get all the proper "Ivy" details. Now, it's simply a matter of writing "Cambridge" on the order form and specifying jacket and trouser size.

    One might safely guess that, rather than creating something entirely new, Southwick, heeding the Ivy-covered zeitgeist, simply blew the dust off an old, time-tested design they found amidst a stack of papers on a closet shelf. The name of the model, which cannot be found on the company's website, is the Cambridge. As in England. Or, more likely, that Massachussetts town that sits happily on the Charles. Best I recall, there's an Ivy League school there.

    I know less than I'd like. What little information I possess comes by way of rumor, and, if I may be so bold as to ask, I wonder if anyone might contribute more.

    One further wonders if Brooks, now the owner of Southwick, would be willing to use the model as a foundation for a new line of made-in-America clothing that, in the spirit of nostalgia, hearkens back to the era that made the "Brooks Brothers Look" famous. Brooks has been Southwick's largest account for decades. Now Brooks could use their factory--their own cut-and-sew operation--to reintroduce the style for which they were once well known.

    Time will tell. That a Brooks poplin sack is still made somewhere overseas, even after the purchase of Southwick, makes little sense. If the use Southwick for the Fitzgerald and darted versions of the Madison and little else--well, again, this makes little sense.

    At the very least, there is the Cambridge--available to/through your local Southwick retailer. Le Ivy est mort, vive le Ivy, eh?
     
  2. TonyThe Tailor

    TonyThe Tailor Senior member

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    Not a rumor, it is a fact, can even have button fly trousers if you desire.

    [ATTACHMENT=1243]Cambridge.pdf (705k. pdf file)[/ATTACHMENT]
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2011
  3. TexasDan

    TexasDan Senior member

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    Interesting news. I noticed on the sketch that the point to point is 18.5 inches. Does this measurement stay constant or does it adjust as the size of the coat goes up and down?
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2011
  4. TonyThe Tailor

    TonyThe Tailor Senior member

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    Point-to-point is based upon a 40R. It will increase (or decrease) 1/4" each size up (down); i.e., 41 will be 18 3/4", 42 will be 19, etc.
     
  5. Knox

    Knox Senior member

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    And, to the delight of Ivy-era purists everywhere, the sleeves feature two buttons. Not four. Not the ubiquitous three. With a half-button's space in between, of course. How about that. Sounds like the jacket one would have found at 346 Madison in, say, 1963.

    One of my questions has to do with the shoulder. I wonder if the Cambridge features the same amount of wadding and padding as the Douglas, which has been their Ivy model for a long while.
     
  6. TexasDan

    TexasDan Senior member

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    I hope it has a bit less than the Douglas. I may consider the Cambridge when I order suit.
     
  7. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    would rather see Brooks bring this back:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  8. Knox

    Knox Senior member

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    How is the Brooks pattern #204 very different from the Southwick Douglas? I would guess that sketch dates back to the 70s. The lapel width looks like it could be four inches (or more).
     
  9. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's probably the biggest difference. There is also the 3 button front (1 for show). I am partial to the wider lapels as opposed to the thinner ones, I don't like seeing a lot of the upper chest area on a jacket, like the lapels to cover about half of it. With men's classic clothing, no one is reinventing the wheel, thin lapels were the standard in the 60's and now they are "fashionable" again, The same can be said for wide lapels, popular in the 70's and fashionable again in certain styles.
     
  10. Knox

    Knox Senior member

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    True, that.

    The lapel width and jacket length are where I break with the Ivy look circa the early 60s. Too narrow; too short. It's interesting to compare/contrast the Brooks No. 1 sack in photos that predate and follow the 60s. It seems there was a four to six year period when the lapels were less than three inches and the jackets were comparatively short. The Brooks sack circa 1980 reminds one of the Brooks sack circa 1955.
     
  11. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    The photo of Elliot Richardson is by Richard Avedon in 1976.
     
  12. Knox

    Knox Senior member

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    Tony the Tailor,

    Would the half waist measurement also increase a 1/4" per size?
     
  13. TonyThe Tailor

    TonyThe Tailor Senior member

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    Half waist should increase 1/2" per size
     
  14. wizard2193

    wizard2193 Member

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    I have taken suits that were not on the Southwick lineup card...more European cut and modeled, and my sales rep had my Southwick, fully canvassed Loro Piana suit made exactly like the style of my favorite old Italian model by Canali. They aim to please and hit the target every time. And forget MTM...my suits came out bespoke. MTM suits generally have about 4 extra measurements. My sales rep took an additional 18 measurements and when the suit arrived, I bought a shirt and tie and made a business meeting wearing what I was delivered. It had been pressed just right for me and I was happy than a hog in slop.
     

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