Southwick MTM Advice Needed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by spitfirees20, Feb 3, 2011.

  1. spitfirees20

    spitfirees20 Senior member

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    I'm looking to get a MTM sportcoat soon, and the clothing store I go to uses the Southwick MTM program. I've done a bit of reading, and all I can seem to find is the fact that they are half-canvassed (and also that John Kerry seems to like them, although I'm not looking for style advice from him). Does anybody have any experience with them? I'm also curious as to what the fabrics are like, and how much customization they allow for. Can I alter the lapel width? Can I opt for functional cuff buttons? Thanks in advance for any information.
     


  2. spitfirees20

    spitfirees20 Senior member

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    Bump; I guess I can narrow this up a bit and just ask about Southwick sportcoats; does anybody have any experience with them? I'm going in this weekend so any information about Southwick, and more specifically their MTM program, would be greatly appreciated.
     


  3. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    I have no direct experience with them, but I'd be shocked if you can't alter the lapel width or do functional buttons. Both of those are very standard MTM adjustments.
     


  4. spitfirees20

    spitfirees20 Senior member

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    I have no direct experience with them, but I'd be shocked if you can't alter the lapel width or do functional buttons. Both of those are very standard MTM adjustments.

    Thanks, I figured they were pretty standard but I'm glad I asked here beforehand. Anybody else have any experience with them?
     


  5. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I have no direct experience with them, but I'd be shocked if you can't alter the lapel width or do functional buttons. Both of those are very standard MTM adjustments.

    You can not change the lapel width with the MTM program,you can only change the measurements and use the patterns they have in stock. Functional button holes shouldn't be a problem as you can get them afterwards.
     


  6. spitfirees20

    spitfirees20 Senior member

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    You can not change the lapel width with the MTM program,you can only change the measurements and use the patterns they have in stock. Functional button holes shouldn't be a problem as you can get them afterwards.

    Well, that's unfortunate.
     


  7. CYstyle

    CYstyle Senior member

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    Well, that's unfortunate.

    In the nature of MTM. They take an existing pattern and then use your measurements to grade the changes to the existing pattern to fit you. You then pick a fabric which they use, then you get to pick a few small details like button stance, and pockets- those are easily changed because they are done afterward. There's prob only a handful of tailors in the factory in case someone has questions, but for the most part they are trained to do only one thing, and thats all they do. someone does pockets someone, someone runs the machine to put in buttons etc, someone else sews on the buttons etc.
     


  8. PoloPlayer

    PoloPlayer Member

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    Southwick has always been a nice #4 make soft shoulder garment. They are best known for their manufacturing of the Brooks Bros 346 clothing, although I don't know if they still do...I doubt it. Southwick probably is associated with the Spencer Hayes Group of great old brands that have sold out to survive. I have many MTM garments, though not from them. The method of sliding patterns works if you need variation from stock sizing. It also gives you a huge selection of fabrics to choose from. It is not a better garment because it is MTM, if you can wear a stock size. It should be an American-made product if it is a true Southwick and not just a label. Good luck!
     


  9. Mr. Claymore

    Mr. Claymore Senior member

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    Brooks Brothers purchased Southwick in 2008 and built a new factory. Make- is ...ok. Fit- is the same as ever; sacky/boxy classic American, though they are working on developing some more softly constructed models. Their real strength in MTM is the great flannel and tweed fabrics they have available. Functional button holes: not problem. Why do you want to adjust the lapel width?
     


  10. spitfirees20

    spitfirees20 Senior member

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    Brooks Brothers purchased Southwick in 2008 and built a new factory. Make- is ...ok. Fit- is the same as ever; sacky/boxy classic American, though they are working on developing some more softly constructed models. Their real strength in MTM is the great flannel and tweed fabrics they have available. Functional button holes: not problem. Why do you want to adjust the lapel width?


    I'm really looking for a conservative lapel width, however something maybe a bit more narrow than usual; probably around 3 inches. I was just curious if they would allow me to choose that, which it sounds like they won't. I guess I'll go in tomorrow and see what they can do. I'm not skinny, but I'm not obese by any stretch of the imagination, and I'm hoping for something that would work well for my frame.
     


  11. Mr. Claymore

    Mr. Claymore Senior member

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    I think they have a newer model (Sinclair? Maybe) that has a trimmer lapel. Their classic models though, are just that; classic. None of them are particularly aggressive. What kind of look are you going for? Why are you choosing to go with Southwick?
     


  12. PoloPlayer

    PoloPlayer Member

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    Mr. Claymore; as in Claymore Shop, Birmingham Michigan?
     


  13. spitfirees20

    spitfirees20 Senior member

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    Well I went in today and ordered a sport coat. I'm very pleased; I'm not sure how much Southwick allows you to alter things such as lapel width, pocket, etc., but everything that comes standard is what I wanted to ask for anyways. My process was similar to a MTM shirt program: I selected a fabric, then I was able to try on one of the Southwick sport coats they had in stock in my size and they pointed out what worked and what didn't. I was then measured, and we went over the details of my order. All in all it was much more of a complete process than what the responses I've received made it out to be, and I would gladly recommend it to anyone else. I can't wait for 3.5-4 weeks to see what the initial fit looks like.
     


  14. dmac

    dmac Senior member

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    Which model did you choose?
     


  15. Raralith

    Raralith Senior member

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    Southwick was my first foray into MTM suits, and I liked them quite a bit. The price wasn't too bad in 2008 pre-Brooks Brothers purchase, $800 I believe, and while I was debating on spending the extra $200 for Samuelson for a full vs half canvas, I really like the Southwick style ala soft shoulders, 3/2 roll, and a beautfil lapel roll. As for the MTM program itself, it really depends on the store you are at since it is their MTM program, and they send the information to whoever makes it.

    What do their sport coats run for these days? I'm guessing around $600 at todays prices?
     


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