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Sources of trouser inspiration: pale chinos

Panama

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I wish I could like a Norwegian Split toe... but it just doesn't do it for me. I generally dislike any shoe with an apron, and I find the **** toe usually looks ugly. Sometimes the overall silhouette of a Norwegian Split toe looks great, but I can't see past the weird stitching.

What's the thoughts on a captoe derby in casual outfits? Like this:
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OXFORDS are nicer...
 

dirtbag-delux

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Yes, I think oxford is the demarcating line. Some caveats: some very well dressed people I know wear oxfords outside of suits. I know Bruce Boyer often wears suede Clev oxfords with sport coats. I've seen Mark Cho at The Armoury recommend oxfords in non-suit contexts a few times in his videos, although in one video, he says he personally believes that oxfords are for suits (so who knows). FWIW, I don't think I've ever seen a photo of Mark himself wearing oxfords outside the context of a suit.

I don't believe in historical cosplay, but when you look at the "golden age" of classic men's style, suits were worn with oxfords and more casual shoes, such as loafers, derbies, and chukkas, depending on the context. Oxfords, however, were only worn with suits. In other words, you can dress a suit down with more casual shoes; but casual outfits called for casual shoes only.

Voxsartoria has a really good online photo archive of well-dressed men from about 1930 to 1980. Just look at some of the combos there. If someone isn't wearing a suit, then I think they'd do better in very casual shoes. Also likely not in tan because tan is a very specific color that requires some attention to how things are put together. Sometimes tan works; often it doesn't because the wearer doesn't have the wardrobe for it. Easier to go with mid or dark brown.

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Are there traditions about wearing wingtips? I've been looking for a pair of brown short wing derbys lately. Is there a traditional way of wearing such a shoe?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Are there traditions about wearing wingtips? I've been looking for a pair of brown short wing derbys lately. Is there a traditional way of wearing such a shoe?

IMO:

- Wingtip oxfords only with suits
- Wingtip derbies with either suits or sport coats
- Wingtip derbies with some CM casualwear, but possibly sometimes better with a different shoe, depending on the casual outfit.
 

Northants bloke

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IMO:
- Wingtip oxfords only with suits....

Absolutely. Never wear Oxford brogues with casual wear ?
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image.jpg
 

apShepard

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@dieworkwear is right. That looks atrocious, especially the blue oxfords worn with chinos. Looks like the people wearing fedoras with wolf t-shirts.

That being said, Simon tricked me.
 

Northants bloke

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@dieworkwear is right. That looks atrocious, especially the blue oxfords worn with chinos. Looks like the people wearing fedoras with wolf t-shirts.

That being said, Simon tricked me.

You don't think suede and an extent broguing mitigates the Oxfords with chinos rule? Personally I see these particular blue shoes with natural soles as exclusively smart casual. I wouldn't wear them with a suit. My default work clothes these days are jacket, button down shirt, tie, chinos and leather or suede boots/shoes. I'm tending towards chukkas but still like my brogues too and I haven't worn a suit yet this year. I don't like sneakers even with jeans

Perhaps you wouldn't wear blue suede brogues fullstop?

I did try but I can't pull off a fedora look anyway.
 
Last edited:

dirtbag-delux

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You don't think suede and an extent broguing mitigates the Oxfords with chinos rule? Personally I see these particular blue shoes with natural soles as exclusively smart casual. I wouldn't wear them with a suit. My default work clothes these days are jacket, button down shirt, tie, chinos and leather or suede boots/shoes. I'm tending towards chukkas but still like my brogues too and I haven't worn a suit yet this year. I don't like sneakers even with jeans

Perhaps you wouldn't wear blue suede brogues fullstop?

I did try but I can't pull off a fedora look anyway.
After further contemplation I have updated my personal style rules to include -- no oxfords, no wingtips.
 

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