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Sons of Henrey - Shoes of timeless elegance - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Notch, Oct 18, 2018.

  1. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Hi A.! Yes definitely, you are included. You were the first to join, on January the 9th, size 8.5 UK. I have it on file. Sorry for not responding to your email earlier.
     

  2. WhyUEarly

    WhyUEarly Senior Member

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    Lovely Tom! Thank you
     

  3. mxgreen

    mxgreen Senior Member

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    Tom - You may want to change the description of the leather on the GMTO. It currently says that shoe is to be made in brown suede.
     

  4. Proleet

    Proleet Senior Member

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    @Notch any plans for a whole cut Oxford? (and if so; what leather?)
     

  5. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Thanks for that, it's changed now.

    Not at the moment.
     

  6. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    I will be in the factory from tomorrow. A lot more can happen if I'm in the factory, in terms of follow up, new designs and new production. I'll report back when I can.
     

  7. Burzan

    Burzan Distinguished Member

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    Sorry, got a new camera. Not the most practical shot to show these off, but damn if it isn't cool looking.

    2019-01-21 22.21.53_edited.jpg
     

  8. TAFJIR

    TAFJIR Well-Known Member

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    @Notch Any update on the black Utah chelseas?
     

  9. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    An update, long overdue:

    I returned yesterday evening from spending two days in the factory. Together with the designer and my account manager, I worked on new patterns, new F/W samples and checked up on production. First, an update on the most urgent matter, the group orders that were promised for January.

    The Black Utah calf Chelsea boots should be ready in 3 weeks from now. This is more than a month later than expected/promised. There is no real reason for the delay. The order was placed on November 5th, and processed on the 12th. The leather was cut and sent to a factory down the road, that does the closing. It only arrived back in the factory this week, ready to last.

    I apologise for the delay, and will be sure to check up on this every week until finished.

    There was a small re-stock for the George in Utah calf. These are expected next week, after a delay in the supply for Dainite rubber soles. Not everyone that produces in the factory uses these, and Dainite soles require large MOQ's.

    I'll do a longer update, with pictures, soon!
     

  10. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    @Notch do the new patterns include a last with a lower instep?

    We need this!
     

  11. Meyboom

    Meyboom Senior Member

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    @Notch Any updates on the GMTO George in english grain? Is the leather already in the factory? Really looking forward to seeing them in the flesh...
     

  12. Proleet

    Proleet Senior Member

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    @Notch did you get any clarity yet about whether you’d be able to offer lama in a very light or tan color? Thx!
     

  13. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Afraid not. With my budget, it's impossible to create another, specialised last. At the moment I have four (including the loafer last that hasn't been released yet), and for now that's all I can manage.

    The leather is in the factory ready to be cut, order has been put in at the end of January. No delays at the moment.

    I source my lama calf leather from an independent agent. Currently, they have black, navy, dark bordeaux and ebony. The ebony that I have is currently being used for a Chukka boot, and a loafer sample. They have two shades of lighter coloured brown lama, but not in stock currently. I will have the chance to meet them during Lineapelle next week, and will enquire then.
     

  14. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    As promised, an update from my time in the factory last week. I am generally not there to take pictures, but did my best to compile some old and new pictures.

    First, some general pictures of Spain and Almansa, the town where all Sons of Henrey shoes are produced, at the moment.

    Flying into Valencia. A good eye can spot the City of the Arts and Sciences. Old and new stand next to each other in this city, which today houses a lot of university students.

    13.jpg

    Driving to Almansa. It's about a one hour drive. There are buses and trains, but rental cars are so cheap it is the better option.

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    A small square in the centre of Almansa.

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    Castle of Almansa, built by the Moors in the 12th Century. Was even home to the Knights Templar at some point in time.

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    There used to be three hotels, of which one closed down not so long ago. Now there are only two. I always choose the least expensive hotel in the city. Cheaper hotel means more money for development ;). This is breakfast at the hotel, nothing much. Spanish people usually eat a sweeter breakfast though.

    12.jpg

    Just a quick shot of lunch in Almansa. I have a lot of food pictures, not going to show them all as I think you are all more interested in shoes.

    8.jpg
     

  15. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Then, onto the shoes.

    I arrived in Almansa on Tuesday evening, and went straight to the factory. I first check on all samples and production (group orders and stock orders), and talk with my account manager, designer and head of the leather department to see if there are any issues. I then check on the leather that arrived in the factory during the past weeks, such as the Chestnut coloured English Grain, Oxblood calf etc. I then do a new stock check to see how much leather there is left from each type. This is easy as I have my own place in the factory. A smaller shelf with my name on it, and a larger cart where the bigger and longer leather rolls are stored. This is what I love doing most: sourcing leather, purchasing small quantities and then turning them into a series (or multiple series) of 14 pair of shoes. Future models will use much more of these 'special' leathers.

    7.jpg

    The next morning, I go over each of the samples with the designer. One by one, we check to see if we can make any improvements to the pattern, or to the construction. I'm a small customer to a very big factory, so it usually takes a while to locate all the different samples. The factory does have a very neat computer system for this, which makes life much easier compared to when I was working with Vass (where they simply wrote everything down in a ledger). In general, I usually spend as much time as possible on the factory floor. I try to talk with the factory workers (through Google translate). The people at the lasting station and in the finishing department always have a lot of great feedback.

    The next morning I have a couple of hours left inside the factory, which I usually spend with my account manager to check on payments, orders and invoices.

    Then, a few pictures of some of the samples. Many of the samples were in the cutting/stitching stage, which is a great stage for me as there is still some room for changes, however not the best stage for taking pictures. There were some samples, such as that of the chukka boot with buckle, and a lot of samples for F/W 2019, that I did not take pictures of.

    A couple of F/W 2019 samples rolling off the belt. Here, the leather is heated, so that it can more closely form to the last. Next stage is hammering the leather.

    14.jpg

    Closeup (Inca grain in dark brown). Great leather to work with, and very beautiful.

    1.jpg
     

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