• Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Threads of Apollo We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Threads of Apollo, a sustainable leather goods company based out of Vancouver, BC, Canada, making premium, made-to-order, water-repellent leather jackets and gloves. .Please help me give them a warm welcome in their new thread.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Some questions regarding pleated trousers

Alias

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
1,536
Reaction score
3
I don't wear these often, because I've had very bad experiences with them making me look 50 years older than I really am, especially when my jacket's off. I'm getting a suit made, and I chose to have my trousers pleated, because I'm also tired of flat-front pants squeezing my butt whenever I sit down; I'd like a more generous fit (admittedly, I do like my suits on the slim side.) I went with a compromise: a single-pleated trouser.

Here's my major question: I notice that on a lot of pictures in eBay auctions and whatnot, the pleats start very close to the pockets. The tailor here recommended that my pleats go through the direct middle of my front thigh. Also, how deep do pleats usually have to be? The tailor here said that the deeper they are, the wider the fit (sounds reasonable), and he recommended that, since I like slim-fitting trousers, I should have pleats on the shallow side of things. Good advice?
 

masterfred

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Messages
81
Reaction score
0
Alias, I'd say the single-pleat option is a good one. Personally, I don't care for flat-front trousers; to my mind, few men look good in them. If you're not willing to go with a fuller-cut trouser, then a single-pleat will give you some extra sitting room. There's been a fashiony reaction against pleated trousers in the last few years (witness the "Queer Eye" comments on them); I suppose too many older, heavier-set men having been wearing pleated pants with an unflattering cut. It's also the cyclical nature of fashion.
BTW, the single pleat will look best, I think, if the pleat bisects the leg, i.e., down the center crease. Ever seen a pair of Hackett's suit trousers?
 

Alias

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
1,536
Reaction score
3
I haven't seen them in person, but I think I get the idea. Thanks for the information.

Flat-front pants aren't that bad, it's just that I wanted to go pleats for a bit. I like the idea of how properly-set pleats make the trousers look sharply pressed.
 

DandySF

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
866
Reaction score
46
Any thoughts on whether the pleat opening should face in or out? I find that the outward facing pleats look best.
 

Carlo

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2003
Messages
1,027
Reaction score
3
I would suggest you go with an inverted box pleat. Â That is the one that looks like a slit - the pleat is 'inside' like an envelope. Â Here's a pic below, the inverted box pleat is just below the beltloop in closeup, normally it is more subtle, here it was held open. Â Unlike the 3-4 pleat slacks I have found that a centered inverted box and perhaps one small standard pleat between pocket and center gives the same comfort, a sleeker drape and keeps you from looking like an accordian. I also suffer from 30's onset gluteal expansion syndrome, I hear you brother :) NOTE: Â Lest i be accused of advertising or otherwise engaging in blatant commercialism in pursuit of evil money, please note that the ad below is from a previously sold item, not a current auction :)
 

bryce330

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2003
Messages
805
Reaction score
3
I agree with your tailor - for slim-fitting pants,single pleats should be shallow and right down the middle (i.e. the crease) of the pants, not out towards the pockets.
 

matadorpoeta

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2003
Messages
4,458
Reaction score
1
i agree with bryce. i like single-pleated pants too. i suggest you don't have them cuffed though; your legs will look shorter and overall the look will be too conservative. my two cents.
 

Alias

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
1,536
Reaction score
3
Thanks for all the replies, and special thanks to Chuck for the informative pictures
I think I'll stick with the regular shallow single-pleat for now, but my big issue is the cuffs/no cuffs thing. I want this to be my suit to wear to job interviews and the like. Would I be frowned upon if I wore cuffless trousers?
 

FCS

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2003
Messages
753
Reaction score
0
Thanks for all the replies, and special thanks to Chuck for the informative pictures

I think I'll stick with the regular shallow single-pleat for now, but my big issue is the cuffs/no cuffs thing. I want this to be my suit to wear to job interviews and the like. Would I be frowned upon if I wore cuffless trousers?
Why would cuff be any issue? It should be ok. Besides, usually single pleat pants don't have cuff anyways.
 

Alias

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
1,536
Reaction score
3
I dunno, maybe I'm exaggerating the stuffiness of your modern day American businessman in my mind, who would recoil and shriek in horror at the absence of cuffs resting upon my feet. Like so.
 

Carlo

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2003
Messages
1,027
Reaction score
3
Alias - Your welcome as always.

When we're in Italy it seems everyone goes cuffless, personally I like cuffs because they add extra weight to the trouser and give me a better drape. This is one of those deals where I will be very opinionated - whomever tells you that one is right and the other wrong is taking their opinion and making a rule out of their opinion. Jeans and Tuxes excepted of course - no cuffs there,

My suggestion - pay attention the next time you wear each type, see how they move with you, look at how they drape and hold thier lines.

Then, do what works for you.

I've heard it said that by creating another horizontal line with a cuff you make yourself shorter. As a 5'9" giant I don't think this is true, the line is at your foot so it is less notable than if it were elsewhere.

At any rate - it is like arguing over whether cordovan or brown shoes work with Navy, the answer is "Yes".
 

bigbadbuff

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2002
Messages
1,790
Reaction score
148
I have a suit with single pleated trousers and elected to not have them cuffed. I do agree that cuffs add desirable weight for drape but I just couldn't do it with these.

And the whole 'double pleats are for old, fat people' opinion is ridiculous. As always it comes back to fit- if it doesn't fit good, it isn't going to look good.

I like flat front for a change but I have plenty of double pleated trousers that look great.
 

j

(stands for Jerk)
Admin
Spamminator Moderator
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Messages
14,912
Reaction score
103
Who needs cuffs? Check out this razor-sharp looking guy from the 40s:
Someday, this suit will be mine. Oh yes, it will be mine.
 

Carlo

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2003
Messages
1,027
Reaction score
3
J - any idea who his tailor is? That, ladies and gentleman, is the fit of a truly bespoke suit.

Could the break in his trouser be any more elegant?

Insert standing ovation emoticon here.
 

A Harris

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jan 6, 2003
Messages
4,594
Reaction score
31
Great suit. One thing though - it looks like he did up the bottom button and it is making the jacket pull a bit - anyone else seeing that?
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Styleforum x S.E.H Kelly Balmacaan: Choose the Fabric

  • standard 5 — light and dark brown

    Votes: 8 6.5%
  • standard 7 — dark brown and charcoal

    Votes: 17 13.7%
  • wide 1 — charcoal and blue-grey

    Votes: 7 5.6%
  • wide 3 — barley and brown

    Votes: 5 4.0%
  • wide 5 — charcoal and dark navy

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • wide 6 — charcoal and black

    Votes: 3 2.4%
  • wide 7 — dark green and black

    Votes: 29 23.4%
  • wide 8 — malt and dark brown

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • wide 9 — blue-grey and charcoal

    Votes: 35 28.2%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
458,204
Messages
9,938,799
Members
207,092
Latest member
modamujer
Top