Some comparisons of suits over time

[itsstillmatt]

I posed this at the London Lounge, but thought that it might be of some interest here as well:

We have had a lot of great threads recently about some styles that are no longer with us (thanks to Sator) and one fascinating thread in the ananymous section about whether some of the great houses (esp A&S) have changed much over time, and whether this change has been for the better or worse.

The last time that I was in Italy, I had the chance to try on some vintage pieces that Rubinacci made in the 30s and my wife was kind enough to snap some pictures. In response to a question from a friend I put on one page a collection of three photos. One is a dinner jacket from '33, one is a sportcoat from this year and the last one is a suit from this year. The dinner jacket was not made for me, and does not fit perfectly, but it is very instructive. What is surprising is how little the style of coat made by Rubinacci has changed over the last 75 years. Perhaps the fronts were slightly more rounded back then, but the amount of drape, shape of the shoulders and amount and shape of waist suppression is eerily similar to what it was back then. I imagine that the dinner jacket is overly closed on me due to the difference between me and the original wearer, and that the too short length comes from th esame thing. The coats made today are still probably the shortest you will find anywhere, but they are not like the DJ.

Enjoy:

 

[edmorel]

That sportcoat in the middle is an absolute work of art. The feeling to wearing it must be incomparable (unless you own more Rucinacci

) There is no excuse, though, for your tie knot in the third pic.

 

[zjpj83]

Wonderful! I agree that the sportjacket is sublime.

 

[von Rothbart]

I am curious to know if the Rubinacci had the same style during 60's and 70's. It seems to me all makers were succumbed to the prevailing trend during those periods.

Btw, both the jacket and the suit are piece of art, but it's more apparent with the jacket from the picture.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by von Rothbart

I am curious to know if the Rubinacci had the same style during 60's and 70's. It seems to me all makers were succumbed to the prevailing trend during those periods.

Btw, both the jacket and the suit are piece of art, but it's more apparent with the jacket from the picture.
I am curious about the same thing. I will ask if they have any pictures lying around the nixt time I am there. You are right, the jacket and suit are equal but the jackiet is more compelling because of the fabric and more casual detailing.

 

[Kasper]

Do you think that the jacket in the middle will ever go out of style?

 

[rnoldh]

Thanks for the pics and the thread. Extremely interesting.

I am curious about the condition of the 75 year old DJ. Is it still pristine?

BTW: I am in complete accord about the current Rubinacci's. They are sublime. I guess there's some truth to the old maxim, "You get what you pay for!".

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by rnoldh

Thanks for the pics and the thread. Extremely interesting.

I am curious about the condition of the 75 year old DJ. Is it still pristine?

BTW: I am in complete accord about the current Rubinacci's. They are sublime. I guess there's some truth to the old maxim, "You get what you pay for!".

It is in pretty good condition, but there are some teirs in the lining. The fabric is a sort of melto wool that is very heavy.

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by von Rothbart

Btw, both the jacket and the suit are piece of art, but it's more apparent with the jacket from the picture.

+1. You should see them in real life. It's even more stunning in 3D.

--Andre

 

[whnay.]

Interesting comparison (the shoulders are almost identical). Not a fan of the curved lapels on the dinner jacket.

 

[Tomasso]

Matt, your sportcoat sleeves are significantly shorter that your suitcoat sleeves. Was this intentional?

 

[Toiletduck]

It seems the dinner jacket has larger sleeves compared to the other two...Is this a product of the past wearer having fatter arms? hmm...doesn't seem like it...