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Sole Welting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Quarantanove, Apr 19, 2012.

  1. CalzolaiFeF

    CalzolaiFeF Well-Known Member

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  2. Nick V.

    Nick V. Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Oops....sorry I missed that. We hand stitch the welting into the existing holes. The soles ate stitched to the welt by machine. We try and match the holes in the welts. Never had any problems. If the shoe was re-welted it doesn't matter.
     


  3. Fishball

    Fishball Distinguished Member

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    Really? I remember few years ago here had a post said otherwise.
     


  4. Nick V.

    Nick V. Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    I have no idea where that came from. Don't even have a welt stitching machine. Never did, my guys don't want one.
     


  5. Fishball

    Fishball Distinguished Member

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    Oh sorry, I mistakenly mixed it up with the outsole stitching.
     


  6. cbfn

    cbfn Distinguished Member

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    [​IMG]

    Edit: And I just learned the difference between a welt-stitch and sole-stitch. So even though a shoes is handwelted, are the soles usually stitched on by machine?
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014


  7. dbhdnhdbh

    dbhdnhdbh Senior Member

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    Even DW has said that he will machine-stitch the outsole for clients who are that cost conscious. Not many such people buy bespoke shoes, so it rarely comes up. Somewhere in this thread there was an explanation that one can match the holes in the existing welt but still use a machine.

    In GY welted shoes that B Nelson has done for me the outsole stitching used the existing holes. Apparently this is quite practical if you know what you are doing.
     


  8. dbhdnhdbh

    dbhdnhdbh Senior Member

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    Perhaps the brief life of the finish is part of the appeal. Like the presentation of a meal. The elaborate arrangement of the food will be lost the moment you start eating.

    From some of the comments, it seems no bespoke or high end RTW maker would consider presenting shoes without finishing the soles. It would be like not polishing them.

    I would still love to hear Nick on the durability of soles that are always covered with Topys. Do you eventually need to restore the footbed after the cork has compressed and shifted? Does the sole deteriorate in some other way in such shoes? Protected from abrasion, but still flexed as much as unprotected soles? If one uses Topys is there still a reason to get JR, or will regular super prime last just as long?

    I'm glad to see this wealth of information back to civil discussion.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014


  9. chogall

    chogall Distinguished Member

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    In inclement weather conditions such as (sub)tropical there's absolutely no reason to use leather sole or topy. Shoes will absorb water both from the sole and the welt. Not even Norwegian or storm welt could help.

    The only solution is rubber sole.

    Topy could only prevent sole wears but not water.
     


  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I beg your pardon if this is unwelcome...but you did mention my name and refer to comments I made previously. And, if I'm not mistaken, the information about stitching in the same holes with a machine was also mine.

    In any case, I thought I would post this photo (since I'm in a photo posting mood this morning)...this is a shot of the bottom of an outsole that has been stitched by machine. While not a repair and not addressing the issue of using the same holes in the welt, boots that come into me to have the outsole replaced go out looking exactly the same. Made about 12-15 years ago.

    [click for closer view]

    [​IMG]

    Same boots shown just to satisfy curiosity and to clarify the perspective distortion of the bottom view.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014


  11. LynahFaithful

    LynahFaithful Senior Member

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    Are there wooden pegs in the waist?
     


  12. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I assume this is meant for me...

    Yes. That's Traditional for the form / style of boot.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014


  13. LynahFaithful

    LynahFaithful Senior Member

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    DW - Yes it was. Sorry I wasn't clear. I thought you used the pegs but I couldn't quite tell from the picture. Thanks.
     


  14. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    No worries.

    Double row, 10 to the inch.
     


  15. dbhdnhdbh

    dbhdnhdbh Senior Member

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    Wow! I mean, I would never wear something like that. It would attract too much attention. But WOW
     


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