Sole Welting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Quarantanove, Apr 19, 2012.

  1. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    It's not purely a matter of personal economics for me. I have both hand-welted and GYW shoes. Some of the latter are more costly than some of the former. For me, there is more to my enjoyment, appreciation and assessment of quality of a pair of shoes than just the welt. And several decades of enjoyment of a pair of shoes before a (reparable) failure is not going to cause me to lose any sleep.

    For some, the welt is a singular defining criterion which separates the worthy from the unworthy (hence we have claims that little separates a $100 GYW shoe from a $1000 GYW shoe, and suchlike). I don't see it that way. I believe there is a significant difference. Just as I believe there is a significant difference between a $300 hand welted shoe and a $3,000 hand welted shoe.

    But I also haven't made it my life's ambition to convince everyone to see it my way, either. Plenty of room for differing views, differing voices - not to mention differing priorities - at the great shoe table.
     


  2. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Given your experience in this regard, I am inclined to place significant weight upon your observations.
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    The staples could very well be the culprit although I would tend to doubt it--they must have that procedure pretty well dialed-in by now. It's not like it's going to change with every style of shoe...although if they have a new operator--staple gunner.

    That said, the stitching is a chain stitch--that's one of the weaknesses of the GY process. Stitching, gemming, staples--it's really all of a piece--if it's not gemming failure, it's stitching failure; if it's not stitching failure, it's something else. No matter how you cut it, it's dern sure a failure of the GY technique.

    I suspect that's the point you were making all along.
     


  4. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No need to "suspect". I think I've been clear and consistent from the beginning.
    When we replace a welt we do it by hand and lock-stitched. I understand that as well.
     


  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Wait...sorry, I'm missing something here...I was responding to MWS.

    ??
     


  6. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oops...My bad. Apologies.
     


  7. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Nick, speaking of this, since you replace the welt by hand, are you able to reuse the original holes in the upper, thus extending the number of potential resoles that a Goodyear-welted shoe can handle? My main beef with factory recrafting is the automatic replacement of the welt, which shortens the overall lifespan of a shoe due to the destruction of the uppers at the inseam.
     


  8. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, that's what they do. The holes are already there and are pretty much used as a guide. Holes are bored through the welt for correct alignment. Sometimes if we see a weakness we patch (support it) in the same area that the holes we in.
     


  9. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Fantastic, thanks for the info!
     


  10. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Great info.
     


  11. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Nick,

    Just curious...under what circumstances would you not use the original holes if you were just replacing welt (not patching the upper)?

    Under what circumstances...not having access to a GY inseaming machine and consequently having to do it by hand...would you not use a lockstitch when replacing welt?

    Sorry if the question seems to come out of left field but the situation just seems so straight-forward and commonsensical, it gave me pause....

    --
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2014


  12. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    hahaha, good questions :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2014


  13. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Hey Fishball,

    Haven't heard from you in a while. How are your bespoke shoemaking "studies" coming along?
     


  14. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I simply answered the question that was asked of me.
    Welting machines are expensive and beyond that they very hard to come by. A few years ago I was able to find one in excellent condition. Before I pulled the trigger I talked over with the guys in the shop. They didn't want it....
     


  15. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Too busy for my "day job," no time to really start a new pair. But will see, may be I will start it again in summer! :)
     


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