Sole Welting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Quarantanove, Apr 19, 2012.

  1. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    Okay, no good then. No idea how to help, thelonius then.
     
  2. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    Blake stitch with closed channel* : pump stitching :: GYW : hand welting?

    *I presume a shoemaker can do closed-channel stitching on a blake shoe, just as they can on a welted shoe.
     
  3. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

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    About Gemming Failure, from a nice C&J Factory Tour by Gentleman's Gazette:

     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I don't think the machines are engineered to do that. Have you...has anyone...ever seen a Blake shoe that had a closed channel?
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
  5. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    Not IRL, no. I was under the impression that the channel was closed on a separate machine from the one the sole was stitched on, but I suppose that's not the case.
     
  6. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    I thought so. Others in the know in this thread have reported the same.
     
  7. kentyman

    kentyman Senior member

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    Ah, thank you; that was my confusion.

    To recap, Bonwelt is not a construction but rather a type of cosmetic faux "welt" used on Blake or cemented shoes. The incongruent stitching between the "welt" and outsole proves that it could not be Blake/Rapid, and the stitching on the outsole suggested that it's Blake instead of cemented, although it is not impossible that a company could put faux stitching on the outsole of a cemented shoe.

    I think I'm convinced. Would you suggest adding a topy ASAP to prevent any possible moisture wicking from ever occurring, or is there a reason to "break in" the shoes first?

    Also, any specific recommendations regarding the topy? I think you said before that you would have it cover the entire outsole. Sadly, I'm not as keen on the look of that.
     
  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I would do it immediately. Once you wear the shoes at all...and the problems gets worse the more you wear them...you will grind so much dirt and so forth into the outsoles that to do the job correctly the outsole will have to be ground away slightly. That may impact the integrity of the stitches. Which would defeat the purpose.
     
  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    You help him. You or maybe someone else who is "in the know"...even though they have never made a shoe or boot, never even seen any of their own shoes torn apart; and can't be bothered to read other people's remarks in their entirety, much less even look at photos. I fear anything I say would fall on deaf ears, in any event.

    What do I gain by giving the advice I give? What do I gain?

    What does C&J have to gain?
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
  10. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    If you note, I did not use a question mark in my above post. Therefore, I was not asking a question of you, I was making a statement, saying that I have no idea how to help thelonius with his issue of the inner lining cracking due to his feet sweating. Has nothing to do with C&J, or making shoes etc. that you bring up. You need to pay better attention, DW, and maybe don't be so uptight *sheesh*
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
  11. Roger la Rock

    Roger la Rock Senior member

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    I have some from before I knew better. Fluevogs, corrected grain, yes I know. They have Blake stitching inside and a closed channel. My understanding, but I could be wrong, is that they were made in a factory in Vietnam belonging to the Japanese maker Perfetto.
     
  12. kentyman

    kentyman Senior member

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    Good to know. I haven't worn them outside even once, so I'm glad I asked. Thank you.

    Do you still feel covering the entire outsole is necessary? There's something about leaving the arch leather exposed that looks better to me, though I understand this would allow moisture in through the arch stitches if I was ever really tromping around. That's not my plan, however.
     
  13. thelonius

    thelonius Senior member

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    Thanks for the idea TW. No, I don't think talc is the answer. I don't think it's a problem particular to me, although everyone differs of course. Chemical aggression from the interior is definitely an important source of shoe deterioration as far as I'm concerned and I've heard other people mention it, but I haven't come across any particular treatments to protect the interior surfaces. I thought of adding a leather insole with active carbon layer, the sort one can find for sale easily and renew regularly, but adding an extra layer fills the shoes up more and may distort them. An such a layer would not protect the linings either.
     
  14. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Thank Alex. It's good to see this being squarely addressed by others.

    Thelonius - I wish I had a suggestion to help you, but I've never experienced that problem.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2014
  15. MSchapiro

    MSchapiro Senior member

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    thelonius,

    I have the same problem. I found that wearing smart wool socks really mitigates the problem. Cotton really lets my sweat through, but the wool socks not as much.
     

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