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Sole Split

chogall

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Saw this on Will's ASW blog.



Incidentally I have similar problem on one of my hand grade C&J at around the inside waist area.

What causes this and whats a good solution to remedy this problem?
 

MyOtherLife

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Hard to tell from the angle of the photo but my guess is it is a thin finishing layer of leather that was applied to the sole to hide the stitching. I used to have a pair of Fratelli Rosetti that had this feature and problem. Aside from some glue to slow it down there isn't much one can do to prevent it from happening. A complete resole would be the only final solution. Would like to see what G&G owners say about this photo or their own experiences.
 

DWFII

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As MOL said, it is hard to tell from the photo. But I have even money that what you are seeing is the edge of the horizontal channel that was cut in the outsole to hide and protect the stitching.

A closer look would confirm...or not...but sometimes that channel is cut with a machine that leaves it relatively thin...it's essentially little more than a 'flap.' And because it is cut horizontally--parallel to the surface of the outsole, IOW--the glue that holds it shut gets wet faster, the thin layer wears through faster and you end up with this ragged look.

On shoes with hand-cut channels the channel itself is cut at an angle. This doesn't entirely prevent the channel opening but as it opens it tends to wear away only at the very extreme edge and at the same rate as the outsole itself. Also the edge gets thicker and heavier as it is worn away.

A better, more water resistant glue or cement is almost a must for these channels. For example, even though such glues were not known historically, waterproof PVA's are available that would seal and eliminate the problem altogether.

But of course they are much more expensive than starch or hide based glues.
 
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Holdfast

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I noticed a milder version of this with a pair of Zegna Couture shoes just last week. Noticed it after wearing them in very wet weather and then as they dried out, a small split occured above the channeled bit of the sole. Seems to be self-limiting though, but I guess the proof will be in the pudding when I next wear them.

*shrug* I guess these things happen once in a blue moon.
 

chogall

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A better, more water resistant glue or cement is almost a must for these channels. For example, even though such glues were not known historically, waterproof PVA's are available that would seal and eliminate the problem altogether.

But of course they are much more expensive than starch or hide based glues.

So would a waterproof PVA be able to slow down the process? How accessible are those glues from hardware stores like home depot?

This is a strong case of using overshoes...
 

DWFII

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So would a waterproof PVA be able to slow down the process? How accessible are those glues from hardware stores like home depot?

This is a strong case of using overshoes...
Yes, TiteBond III (?) is an example of a waterproof PVA if you are looking in the hardware store. Like all glues the bond must be pressed for a time and allowed to dry and cure thoroughly. If you can find a contact cement such as Barge (comes in small inexpensive tubes) or even something for adhering formica to wooden countertops, that too will work, although it's probably not as permanent a solution as the TiteBond. On the other hand you don't have to hold the pieces together--just allow to dry for a small amount of time, press together and hammer. Follow the directions on the tube, IOW.
 
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