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Solaro suit : original or not?

lorcar

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I have almost decided to pull the trigger on a bespoke solaro suit. The only thing I am undecided yet if I should go the original Solaro, which is terrific but heavy and for sure not a summer fabric here in Italy, it choose a different brand like Piana/Zegna /Caccioppoli which have lighter solaro fabric. However I am unsure how the latter wood look in terms of final effect. I mean, the main reason for buying a solaro is the sunlight plays and reflective characteristics. How would these differ in a Zegna cloth vs the original?
Or should I simply not care and get the original Smith Wollens?
Any hint is appreciated
Thanks
 

brax

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I had your same dilemma and went with the Original Smith in twill rather than herringbone. I’m happy that I did so. My tailor in Naples was very happy with how the suiting performed and is now recommending it over the lighter weight Solaros made by others.
P.S. While not light weight, the Smith does not wear warm. I wear mine in 30 degree heat without any trouble but I am pretty oblivious to heat or cold.
 

lorcar

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thanks
not sure i understand what you mean by "twill", i know there are 4 different "designs", 2 are herringbone. But i'd guess they perfom all the same?
here a pic
https://goo.gl/sg9ZNp
https://goo.gl/gqmWHM

i have tried an original SOlaro, and really dont see myself wearing it in Milan 30 celsius degrees...

have you had the chance to try/see Zegna/Caccioppoli?
 

brax

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Yeah, I have the 2577 which I now remember is a plain weave rather than a twill. As I’m sure you know, it is 11-12 oz so not summer weight but not particularly heavy either.
My Naples tailor uses a fair amount of Caccioppoli and we looked at that Solaro. My commission was his first use of Smith and I think that he now recommends that over other Solaros. In my opinion, the others lack the reflective property that makes a Solaro a Solaro.
 

brax

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Wow! I’d never seen that Smith green Solaro that you posted. Looks very interesting. Have you seen that live?
 

GBR

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I agree, the green Solaro is very tempting!

To answer the question, stick with the original Smith's Woolens. It makes up extremely well and does not wear hot - even in Italy.
 

lorcar

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How can it be not hot, since its weight is above 300 grams? Usually a winter suit is 270 grams, isn't?
 

brax

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How can it be not hot, since its weight is above 300 grams? Usually a winter suit is 270 grams, isn't?
As I mentioned, I’m not very sensitive to heat or cold. And I live where summer highs average around 30 while winter highs average around 0.

And to add another variable to the equation, the porosity of the fabric makes a difference. For example, the London Lounge Brisa is 13 ounces yet many persons wear it as summer suiting based on porosity. As for me, I wear Rangoon and Minnis Frescos in summer. They are 8/9 and 9/10 ounces respectively. I also wear London Lounge linen but that’s a different matter. So, yes, the Solaro is heavier than anything else I wear in summer but I don’t have much trouble with it.

As for winter, I wear heavier flannel and some Lesser 16oz. I have no winter suiting in 270g (9 Oz) nor could I ever imagine anything that light working for my winters.

13 ounce would be a good shoulder season weight for me.

But the true answer is that the weight is completely subjective to your temperature sensitivity. If 11-12 is too heavy for your summer, then it is too heavy regardless of how I feel in it.
 
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GBR

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Brax makes a good point about sensitivity. I have to admit that I can find an 8oz to warm in the depths of winter but for me, 10/11oz is certainly a good year round weight! To compound that a decent collapsible umbrella is a far more versatile object to own than an overcoat as I scarce wear one.
 

GBR

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A wayward thought; I could well see the green Solaro making a nice sports coat for some. Not everyone could carry it off but tempting.
 

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