Soft vs Structured Tailoring

[jdp234]

Are their any photos to dileneate what represents structured vs soft tailoring? I have seen some suits that are considered softly tailored that still have a structured look to it.

This is a good point—Steven (sp?) Hitchcock springs to mind as a tailor who is working in the “soft” style (*for England*) but still makes jackets that to my eye look quite clean and angular.

I guess I just don’t have as good a sense, not having ever handled jackets from eg Huntsman or Sexton or similarly “hard” tailoring firms.

As a general matter I have started to believe that the SF mean is too heavily biased in favor of soft and unstructured/unpadded jackets.

 

[Quesjac]

This is a good point—Steven (sp?) Hitchcock springs to mind as a tailor who is working in the “soft” style (*for England*) but still makes jackets that to my eye look quite clean and angular.

I guess I just don’t have as good a sense, not having ever handled jackets from eg Huntsman or Sexton or similarly “hard” tailoring firms.

As a general matter I have started to believe that the SF mean is too heavily biased in favor of soft and unstructured/unpadded jackets.

Obviously you get a much better sense from trying things on, but even photos of two extremes, say isaia and cifonelli, give a good sense of the difference I think.

To my mind all good jackets have shape, it's more that some get it from how they fall over the body and some much more from padding etc

 

[lordsuperb]

This is a good point—Steven (sp?) Hitchcock springs to mind as a tailor who is working in the “soft” style (*for England*) but still makes jackets that to my eye look quite clean and angular.

I guess I just don’t have as good a sense, not having ever handled jackets from eg Huntsman or Sexton or similarly “hard” tailoring firms.

As a general matter I have started to believe that the SF mean is too heavily biased in favor of soft and unstructured/unpadded jackets.

Because it feels like you are wearing nothing at ALL......

 

[sargeinaz]

I Agree. I hate feeling padding in the shoulders. I also don’t wear suits often (basically weddings or funerals), mostly casual sport coats.

I’d be interested to try on a liverano or vestrucci jacket because from what I understand they use very light wadding or padding (I forget) that’s much less noticeable.

 

[lordsuperb]

I Agree. I hate feeling padding in the shoulders. I also don’t wear suits often (basically weddings or funerals), mostly casual sport coats.

I’d be interested to try on a liverano or vestrucci jacket because from what I understand they use very light wadding or padding (I forget) that’s much less noticeable.

There is probably little to no padding in these but they still give off a structured vibe. What gives?

 

[Newcomer]

There is probably little to no padding in these but they still give off a structured vibe. What gives?

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Let's use a better pic .

 

[lordsuperb]

Let's use a better pic .

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So you concur with me or just wanted more photos added?

 

[vida]

Structured tailoring, in general, comes across as a more formal and business-like. And given that the climate continues to get more and more casual, soft tailoring just seems more appropriate.
My PLPL suits have plenty of shape and structure but are rarely worn because I feel very "dressed", even at work among professionals. So, I've turned to soft models (Isaia, etc.) that are more in line with current standards. However, I believe that structured jackets are a better compliment to my physique in many ways, yet I still choose softer garments a majority of the time.

 

[lordsuperb]

Structured tailoring, in general, comes across as a more formal and business-like. And given that the climate continues to get more and more casual, soft tailoring just seems more appropriate.
My PLPL suits have plenty of shape and structure but are rarely worn because I feel very "dressed", even at work among professionals. So, I've turned to soft models (Isaia, etc.) that are more in line with current standards. However, I believe that structured jackets are a better compliment to my physique in many ways, yet I still choose softer garments a majority of the time.

Like so?

 

[vida]

Like so?
View attachment 951098

For the most part.

 

[clee1982]

I prefer structured, probably because I got small ish frame (5’7”, 145lb). Also I think most people have some slight imbalance between shoulder, a bit padding (still not structured look at all) goes a long way to fix all the small divet what not issue.

 

[comrade]

Examples from Rubinacci and Kiton of very soft tailoring and rounded shoulder
line not evident on the photos above. To my eyes this rounded shoulder
is basically the same as traditional Ivy League tailoring. I have broad
and square shoulders and a big chest, so this shoulder suits me.

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...re_Linen_Silk_Jacket_2_large.JPG?v=1459952996

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...ket_EU_54_US_44_Slim_1_large.jpg?v=1473236916

Ivy example:

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/O-Connell-s-Robert-Noble-Plaid-Tweed-Sport-Coat-Tan.html

 

[jonathanS]

Examples from Rubinacci and Kiton of very soft tailoring and rounded shoulder
line not evident on the photos above. To my eyes this rounded shoulder
is basically the same as traditional Ivy League tailoring. I have broad
and square shoulders and a big chest, so this shoulder suits me.

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...re_Linen_Silk_Jacket_2_large.JPG?v=1459952996

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...ket_EU_54_US_44_Slim_1_large.jpg?v=1473236916

Ivy example:

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/O-Connell-s-Robert-Noble-Plaid-Tweed-Sport-Coat-Tan.html

Its clear the Rubinacci is much better than the Kiton & the Ivy imo.

Kiton button stance is too high to my eye - its right under the chest, which does nothing to accentuate the figure.

 

[comrade]

I agree re button stance but my comment is on the shoulders on the prior examples,
none of which are "natural" enough for me

 

[Bromley]

There is probably little to no padding in these but they still give off a structured vibe. What gives?

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Most of those jackets fit really well-- clean lines, no folds or bunching cloth. Maybe that's why you're getting the impression of structure. I think "soft tailoring" becomes more apparent in movement, or in poor fit. There are certain details that have become associated with "soft tailoring" as well (drape, shoulder shapes, sleeve attachment, etc). Reliably or not, I associate a trim chest/roped shoulder/ticket pocket with "structured tailoring". Those details nudge my impression, anyway.