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Soft-tailoring question - does unstructured shoulders/chest mean no canvas?

theyare

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Does unstructured shoulders/chest mean no canvassing throughout or are they unrelated?

What exactly is it that gives Isaia and the like that soft unstructured feel throughout the jacket? Trying to explain to my HK tailor how to make adjustments.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by theyare
Trying to explain to my HK tailor how to make adjustments.

If the tailor needs instruction from you on how to do soft-tailoring, then getting him to do it is unlikely to produce a desirable result.
 

aj_del

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^^ agree except that on the first try, it is highly unlikely that you wil get what you were looking for.

Anyways unstructured jackets are overrated IMO and a thing which RTW companies do better
 

Martin Stall

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While I have no experience with asian tailoring, I do have an inordinate amount of experience with tailoring since I'm a tailor. As such, I can tell you that the modern and very fashionable concept of soft tailoring is a clever and very functional marketing stratagem.

Since clothiers have moved from making sturdy twills to super 100's any tailor who makes a stiff, or structured, coat out of modern lightweight cloths, should be barred from the profession.

No one is though, which proves my point. A tailor will know what combination of canvasses to use for each type of cloth. He will also decide on the type of padding and make up that complement the cloth.

As for telling your tailor how to make your suit, that is a risky affair, to say the least. Do not, under any circumstance, push your tailor out of his comfort zone. If you do, your money is lost and your suit will remain unworn. If you feel you have to persuade him and instruct him, it's not likely to end well. If however he reacts: "It's not how it should be done, but I can do it if you so desire" you might have a good one on your hands.
 

TonyThe Tailor

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Originally Posted by theyare
What exactly is it that gives Isaia and the like that soft unstructured feel throughout the jacket? Trying to explain to my HK tailor how to make adjustments.

Why not just buy an Isaia?
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by Martin Stall
As for telling your tailor how to make your suit, that is a risky affair, to say the least. Do not, under any circumstance, push your tailor out of his comfort zone.

Apparently, despite all indications to the contrary, this axiom does not apply within tha geographical boundaries of Hong Hong.
 

TonyThe Tailor

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Originally Posted by theyare
I do have some Isaia's, but it's tough to handle the $3k + or more price tag for exactly what I want


true!

When I make a "soft jacket" i usually make shoulder pads from the canvas just to give the shoulders some support
 

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