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So I started a clothing company...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by bdavro23, Nov 16, 2018.

  1. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    In the interest of brevity, which is something quite foreign to me, I will spare you my usual lyrical waxing and just post the pictures. Another new book day...

    IMG_20190314_190325.jpg

    IMG_20190314_201256.jpg
     

  2. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Very nice. Any vicuña blends in the books?
     

  3. ValidusLA

    ValidusLA Member

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    I'm a new member, who just happened to pick up my first LP blazer from my tailor last month (from their last set of 2018 books).

    Why do you say people on SF are not LP fans? Just curious - is there some sort of bad rep? I love the fabric feel and quality.

    Also following thread - as someone who does operations for a private label clothing company I can relate to many of the issues you have had to deal with lol.
     

  4. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    As far as I know, the only Vicuna is in the Zenit collection, and there are a fair number of swatches with that blend. Also Chinchilla, cashmere and silk. I didnt ask for that collection as I dont anticipate overwhelming demand for orders from it, and it comes in a big box. However, I do have access to the swatches should I need them.
     

  5. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    I am a big fan of their fabrics, as you might have deduced. I am also a big fan of VBC and think they have some lovely cloth that tailors really well. For whatever reason, LP and VBC havent received a lot of love on the forum. There seems to be more appreciation for other mills/ merchants and I cant say that I know why. It also could just be my interpretation and maybe I'm wrong. Who knows. Luckily, everyone gets to pick their own cloth. Thanks for following along.
     


  6. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    I think it probably has at least something to do with the fact that a lot of store brand suits and sport coats are made with Loro Piana or Zegna fabrics. To the average person buying a suit off the rack, thats a pretty good selling point. To the enthusiast like most people on the forum, I guess it could be seen as a bad thing. Full disclosure, I dont know if the Zegna Trofeo or LP Four Seasons fabric used on those suits is the same stuff their wholesale accounts get or a special diffusion line made especially for big box stores. Despos said VBC has a diffusion line for retailers in another thread, which I was unaware of. The VBC fabrics I've seen and used on the wholesale account side of things have been great. In fact, I'm wearing a pair of flannels today from VBC and they're great.

    I do wonder what the reputation of Smith Botany or Lumbs Golden Bale would be if Saks started using them for their house brand suits. It's an interesting discussion.
     

  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Stylish Dinosaur

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    I don't know that I have detected a dislike for Loro Piana or VBC, per se. Rather, I think people on SF tend to do what enthusiasts do which is to seek out the things they haven't seen before. LP and VBC are so common, as @bdavro23 has alluded to when he says that they are used in a lot of luxury store brands. Besides, a lot of those store brands are associated with the high cost/low-ish quality stuff that Nordstrom and Saks are known for, so I'm sure that goes into it. It's much cooler for some really instagram worthy SF person to wax about the obscure Scottish mill his tweed cloth was made in rather than the same ol thing you can find in Nordstrom.
     

  8. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    You nailed it. And to be fair, I love hearing about those obscure Scottish mills as much as the next guy. With that being said, it doesnt make LP, or VBC, or Zegna any less fabulous in their own rights.
     

  9. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Stylish Dinosaur

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    Totally agree. I personally wouldn't hesitate to use either company.
     

  10. ValidusLA

    ValidusLA Member

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    I guess that makes sense. I guess I'm not really in the game of sourcing my own mills. My tailor in LA carries a lot of them, and when I test out their swatches from LP they certainly don't feel the same as anything you could find at Nordstroms. I wore my newest LP blazer to my brothers rehearsal dinner - and never have I gotten so much praise for a jacket.

    Most of my stuff is significantly less expensive fabric than even LP. I'd love to have my tailor do some Scabal for me, but alas I am not that spendy yet.
     

  11. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Distinguished Member

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    Zegna Huayaca tweed is consistently good, unique and a perfect "faux" tweed look and feel for me. I source it from a place that buys seasonal leftovers from a lot of high ends mills (from kiton on down). I am never afraid i am going to see 3 other guys with the same stuff.
     

  12. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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    Got a link to your fabric source?
     

  13. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Who actually doesn't like LP? I've never seen criticism on the forum for it. But yes, some British mills are held in high esteem on SF.
     

  14. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    I think LP and Zegna are sometimes categorized as being "too commercial". They both operate retail stores and have their own clothing lines. This keeps their cloth patterns evolving to keep something new and fresh. This isn't like traditional English cloth that keeps standards in books that don't change for decades. It is hard to find a robust 11 -14 ounce cloth range from either of them. The classic patterns offered have some nuance or luxury (Super 180's etc.) aspect. Not knocking their cloths just offering some insight to their reputation. Think their appeal is to someone looking for visual presence and image in the cloth over just cloth construction in terms of durability and longevity. Not saying their cloths don't have that as well.
    LP has had some of the best jacket collections over the last few years. Probably used them more for jacketing than other brands. Their shirtings can be fantastic.
    Zegna had one of the best flannel ranges but only ran it for three years. The Trofeo line was great to work with. Just made up some Zegna corduroys for trousers and am very impressed.
    Every cloth maker has good and not so good in their lines. What one tailor or client likes is not an absolute
     

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