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So does half-canvas mean fusing included even for high end labels?

WatchmeWhipWatchmena

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So I'm trying to get my head wrapped around canvassing in suits. I feel like there's a lot of confusing information on the internet when it comes to explaining the half canvas suit. I was under the belief that half-canvassed jackets meant that it has fusing involved, particularly for the bottom layer of the jacket; maybe even the lapels.

An example of this confusion are for the products below, with the mentioned constructions:

Silk-Wool Twill Suit Jacket (Full construction) £520

The RL67 Herringbone Jacket (Half canvased) £799

Now surely, surely! That the RL67 jacket is c*** compared to the first jacket. They look virtually the same construction wise. So would it be correct in assuming the £799 jacket (RL67) will probably have no fusing, and half-canvas just to make it a bit more lightweight? Because I can't see why it'd be more expensive.

Thanks to various sources over the internet, I have thought that half-canvas or floating canvas meant those type of high end suits still use fusing. I think Drake for examples uses half-canvassing for their suit jackets. For example, I have a Chester Barrie gold label Italian jacket (one in my profile picture), which has a floating canvas all the way through the jacket, but there's no canvas near the buttons / buttonholes, nor the lapels. Would that mean the jacket is fused despite being the highest end and probably would've retailed for something like £800 (I got it for £50 of eBay, and yes it's genuine).

Please let me know your thoughts, I'm eager to know.
 

notdos

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Bottom line, you don’t want anything fully fused. As I understand it, most construction, including full canvas, has a limited amount of fusing. From Oliver Wicks website…“So why use any kind of fusing at all if it’s so bad?” The answer is that adding small amounts of fusing, in addition to a full or half canvas construction, results in a longer lifespan for many of the lighter-weight suit fabric options that we offer.
 

breakaway01

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This is a pretty definitive summary of the differences between fully fused, half- and full-canvas jackets.

Note that @jefferyd points out that even full-canvas jackets can have a thin layer of 'skin' fusing to stabilize lightweight fabrics, as @notdos also points out.

I would be very surprised if your Chester Barrie jacket did not have canvas in the lapel. What makes you think that it does not? The canvas should have been padstitched in the lapel so it is not a freely floating layer there.

In comparing the two RL jackets you linked, you should never assume that a higher priced garment automatically means a more complicated construction. There is so much more that goes into pricing than the construction. Another thread here demonstrates what seems to be a fused Brunello Cucinelli jacket.
 

jefferyd

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Yes, all half-canvas garments have fusing.

The first garment is unspecified wool and silk blend, with a poly/viscose lining and is made in Portugal.

The second garment is made from English alpaca and wool, has a cupro (bemberg) lining and is made in Italy.
 

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 87 37.7%
  • Half canvas is fine

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  • Really don't care

    Votes: 25 10.8%
  • Depends on fabric

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  • Depends on price

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