Smedley fitting woes

[bhaga]

I am a long time lurker but first time posting. About 5 foot, 10 and 170 lbs. This is a small Marcus in standard fit and I want to wear this over a shirt but here I am just wearing it over a thin vest. It does look I need to go a Medium.

Few questions:
1. I notice the sleeves are really long, notice the wrinkles. I read about turn-back cuff which is a Smedley feature on few styles including Marcus. Is the idea to turn the cuff in, do we turn it in from the outside or from the inside of the garment)?
2. Smedley sleeves seem long in general, how do people fit them to their desired length? The turn-back stitch does not seem to be on all styles
3. I read that Kershaw or some Italian fits have shorter sleeves, is that the case?
4. I intend to use this for formal/work occasions. Are crew necks or V-necks (without a tie) a better fit?

 

[dieworkwear]

As you noted, the sweater is too small for you.

Questions 1 and 2: If you look at the sleeves, they are finished with an unusually long cuff. By cuff, I mean the ribbed section of the sleeve. This part is meant to be folded back. You take the cuff and fold it back, such that the cuff is visibly folded back when seen from the outside (meaning, the cuff's extra layer ends up laying on the outside, not the inside). This type of design is common in knitwear. It's meant to allow you to adjust the cuffs as needed.

Question 3: I am not familiar with the Kershaw. Sweaters are typically not made with sized sleeves. With dress shirts, you can buy sized sleeves, such that they come in sizes 31, 32, or 33, etc. This is not possible in knitwear and is unnecessary because of the folded cuff.

Question 4: Crewnecks or v-necks are fine for work. If you wear a v-neck, you may find that you have to wear a collared dress shirt underneath. A collared dress shirt can also be worn under a crewneck shirt, although you can also wear a crewneck without one.

Personally, I think you would do better in a textured, more casual sweater if you're going to wear these for work and without a tailored jacket. Something like an Aran, cable knit, Shetland, or some other type of textured knit. This adds visual interest in a way that a smooth, plain merino crewneck and v-neck won't.

 

[maxalex]

If by “formal/work” you mean the sweater will be worn under a sport jacket or blazer, just size up, and turn back the sleeve cuffs. If you won’t be wearing a jacket, I agree a more textured sweater would be better. Thin merino and cashmere pullovers are optimized for pairing with a tailored jacket, since a thicker sweater would obviously not fit under a properly sized jacket.

 

[bhaga]

Thanks a lot folks for the quick response. Maxalex by formal I had meant just worn over a dress shirt but no jacket. I suppose I should have called it business casual. I am thinking of ordering a Medium which is a good 3 inches more on the chest. Do you folks think that will work? In other words one size up (M) and not two (L).

Dieworkwear and Maxalex, quick question on your recommendation, are there any good makers of textured knits or shetlands? Does Smedley make some?

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks a lot folks for the quick response. Maxalex by formal I had meant just worn over a dress shirt but no jacket. I suppose I should have called it business casual. I am thinking of ordering a Medium which is a good 3 inches more on the chest. Do you folks think that will work? In other words one size up (M) and not two (L).

Dieworkwear and Maxalex, quick question on your recommendation, are there any good makers of textured knits or shetlands? Does Smedley make some?

Too many makers for textured knits. Just depends on the style you want.

I would check with a shop such as No Man Walks Alone. Or O'Connell's if you specifically want Shetlands.

 

[Sirguywhosmiles]

....This adds visual interest in a way that a smooth, plain merino crewneck and v-neck won't.

@dieworkwear, do you think a cashmere crewneck or v-neck is a little more interesting, due to it's softer/fluffier nature, if someone wants to go with a simpler, less textured knit?

( I have seen your articles on cashmere over-production; assume for the sake of argument one goes vintage, or otherwise tries to buy sustainable cashmere.)

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear, do you think a cashmere crewneck or v-neck is a little more interesting, due to it's softer/fluffier nature, if someone wants to go with a simpler, less textured knit?

( I have seen your articles on cashmere over-production; assume for the sake of argument one goes vintage, or otherwise tries to buy sustainable cashmere.)

Smooth merino is visually going to look the same as smooth cashmere.

Some examples of what I mean. I think this looks boring

If you wear a smooth sweater, I think it does better under a sport coat.

If you're not going to wear a sport coat, I think the sweater would be better if it was textured. Like so

This sweater is called a Shetland. It's a bit more textured than a plain merino or cashmere sweater. I think it can be worn with a sport coat, but also on its own. The texture looks a bit more interesting than flat cashmere or merino

 

[Sirguywhosmiles]

Thanks for the reply.
Cable-knits are my favourite, but i like a smooth merino when travelling, it packs up small but adds heat, but not too much, where needed.

I think a lot of those textured knits tend to be warmer, so people who run hot might be more inclined to go with the plainer jumpers you dislike. Of course, smooth cashmere is warmer than wool too!
Maybe a linen cable knit for visual interest without heat?

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks for the reply.
Cable-knits are my favourite, but i like a smooth merino when travelling, it packs up small but adds heat, but not too much, where needed.

I think a lot of those textured knits tend to be warmer, so people who run hot might be more inclined to go with the plainer jumpers you dislike. Of course, smooth cashmere is warmer than wool too!
Maybe a linen cable knit for visual interest without heat?

I think it helps to push the outfit away from business casual. The idea of adding a textured knit is to just push it away from the first photo in that post. So long as the outfit has some aesthetic direction and doesn't just look like every other boring outfit in a business conference.

So if someone was wearing a cable knit, I would do

- Cords instead of flat front chinos
- Loafers or chukkas instead of oxfords or Allbirds.

 

[maxalex]

If you’re really set on smooth merino or cashmere, consider a cardigan. With or without pockets. It’s a good middle ground between a pullover and a tailored jacket. I prefer buttons over zip, which is a bit too Mr. Rogers.

 

[Sirguywhosmiles]

[

I am a long time lurker but first time posting. About 5 foot, 10 and 170 lbs. This is a small Marcus in standard fit and I want to wear this over a shirt but here I am just wearing it over a thin vest. It does look I need to go a Medium.

Few questions:
1. I notice the sleeves are really long, notice the wrinkles. I read about turn-back cuff which is a Smedley feature on few styles including Marcus. Is the idea to turn the cuff in, do we turn it in from the outside or from the inside of the garment)?
2. Smedley sleeves seem long in general, how do people fit them to their desired length? The turn-back stitch does not seem to be on all styles
3. I read that Kershaw or some Italian fits have shorter sleeves, is that the case?
4. I intend to use this for formal/work occasions. Are crew necks or V-necks (without a tie) a better fit?

I have one Smedley v-neck, and I already exchanged it for a larger size and it still fits weird.

Long arms like you say, tight waist, long body, all of which you might blame on my less-than-ideal shape, but the narrow shoulders aren't designed for any person I see regularly in real life. The material stretches to fit them , but that just makes the chest and sleeves hang strangely.

I have a brooks brothers crewneck in a similar fabric and it fits like most other jumpers I own. The arms are long on me because mine are short, but the body is shaped like a regular human.

 

[dieworkwear]

[

I have one Smedley v-neck, and I already exchanged it for a larger size and it still fits weird.

Long arms like you say, tight waist, long body, all of which you might blame on my less-than-ideal shape, but the narrow shoulders aren't designed for any person I see regularly in real life. The material stretches to fit them , but that just makes the chest and sleeves hang strangely.

I have a brooks brothers crewneck in a similar fabric and it fits like most other jumpers I own. The arms are long on me because mine are short, but the body is shaped like a regular human.

Sweaters often have a longer body. The hem is typically ribbed so that you can pull them up and adjust them on the waist. As noted above, you should also fold the cuffs back so the arms fit how you need.

 

[Sirguywhosmiles]

Sweaters often have a longer body. The hem is typically ribbed so that you can pull them up and adjust them on the waist. As noted above, you should also fold the cuffs back so the arms fit how you need.

Thanks, but I am well used to rolling cuffs back, and having a little bit longer body so not to be too tight. It is not so much the length of the body as the shape.

This Smedley shape is different again; no other knitwear I have seen has been so tight on my weedy shoulders. I can't imagine how it would look on a genuinely athletic person.