Slim Pleated Pants?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Knowledge is King, Sep 2, 2009.

  1. Knowledge is King

    Knowledge is King Senior member

    Messages:
    618
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    May 18, 2007
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Anyone have suggestions for a reliable source of slim, pleated wool trousers? Single or double pleat works. Thanks.
     
  2. Coburn

    Coburn Senior member

    Messages:
    624
    Likes Received:
    45
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    Location:
    Seattle
    I'm bumping the thread because I'd like to hear some suggestions.

    Anyone have suggestions for a reliable source of slim, pleated wool trousers? Single or double pleat works. Thanks.
     
  3. IBJanky

    IBJanky Senior member

    Messages:
    924
    Likes Received:
    35
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2009
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    Slim and pleated?

    That's like an oxymoron [​IMG]

    myke
     
  4. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

    Messages:
    852
    Likes Received:
    34
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2003
    Location:
    San Francisco
    One approach would be to find a pair that fits reasonably well and them have them tailored so that they fit perfectly, especially through the hips, seat, and thigh. I'm beginning to move away from well-fitting pleated pants to slimmer flat fronts. I find the pleated pants are just too voluminous.
     
  5. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,314
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2007
    Location:
    In A Gadda Da Vida, Baby!
    I have two pair, but they're vintage. Grey virgin wool flannels --one warm grey, one cool -- given to me by a friend from Italy. One is marked "Actualite" and other is "Nobleman for La Rinascente.

    The drape is great and they're fairly slim straight down, no taper. Not like Dior Homme slim, but...

    If you couldn't see the top part, you wouldn't know they were pleated.

    Living in an exclusively flat front world can be a drag.
     
  6. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    19,145
    Likes Received:
    3,253
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    Slim pants with pleats are pulled open. They don't have the natural drape intended for pleats. They don't work because they don't look properly fitted.
     
  7. Don Carlos

    Don Carlos In Time Out

    Messages:
    7,527
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    May 15, 2009
    I could see a single reverse pleat possibly working, but you'd also need to cuff it. At that point you're basically defeating the purpose of slim fitting office pants.
     
  8. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,314
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2007
    Location:
    In A Gadda Da Vida, Baby!
    Slim pants with pleats are pulled open. They don't have the natural drape intended for pleats. They don't work because they don't look properly fitted.

    The ones I have are straight down and not tapered -- and not so slim that the pleats are pulled open. Also, the pleats aren't deeply set-in. They're on the small side.

    I guess you have to get vintage Italian ones to get the proper cut.
     
  9. rebel222

    rebel222 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,704
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    May 21, 2008
    Location:
    Louisiana
    The Isaia pants in my signature are single reverse pleat, and they are pretty slim. I would definitely call them slim fitting... not ball crunching Incotex slim, but very slim.

    I am a slim guy, and they are some of the best fitting pants that I own.
     
  10. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,314
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2007
    Location:
    In A Gadda Da Vida, Baby!
    I could see a single reverse pleat possibly working, but you'd also need to cuff it. At that point you're basically defeating the purpose of slim fitting office pants.

    The ones I have are double pleated, but smaller pleats. and they both actually do have cuffs.

    I no longer have an office thanks to the recession, so it's not a big deal for me right now. [​IMG]
     
  11. Don Carlos

    Don Carlos In Time Out

    Messages:
    7,527
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    May 15, 2009
    The ones I have are double pleated, but smaller pleats. and they both actually do have cuffs.

    I no longer have an office thanks to the recession, so it's not a big deal for me right now. [​IMG]


    When you're in office pants, my friend, the world is your office.
     
  12. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,314
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2007
    Location:
    In A Gadda Da Vida, Baby!
    When you're in office pants, my friend, the world is your office.

    Thanks for the laugh!
     
  13. Knowledge is King

    Knowledge is King Senior member

    Messages:
    618
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    May 18, 2007
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Slim pants with pleats are pulled open. They don't have the natural drape intended for pleats. They don't work because they don't look properly fitted.
    Just because pants are pleated doesn't mean they can't be slim through most of the leg. If the rise is appropriate and the pleat is deep enough, it can work easily. I'm basically looking for more crotch room and better drape across the lap area while keeping a relatively narrow leg. I think good examples of pleated pants that are still slim are those worn by Mafoofan and Incontro (amongst others). Both of those guys use custom tailors though which I'm not looking to do. [​IMG]
     
  14. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,721
    Likes Received:
    100
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2006
    Location:
    Capital M
    On a pair of bespoke trousers, the tailor can adjust the amount of material that is folded over to create the pleating that can still give a slim leg. But if you are thinking of taking-in a pair of OTR trousers with pleats, then there is a limit to how much you can take in without pulling the pleats open.
     
  15. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,897
    Likes Received:
    296
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    Slim pants with pleats are pulled open. They don't have the natural drape intended for pleats. They don't work because they don't look properly fitted.

    Not true. I have several pairs of quite slim, double inward-facing pleated pants
    with very low rise purchased in Paris in the '80s, or at the late-lamented Andre
    Oliver in New York, imported from France. Later I purchased dress slacks, also
    from Paris with a somewhat fuller leg, but double-pleated and low rise. These from
    Arthur et Fox which has received excellent review in this forum. Finally,
    a pair of flannels from the now-defunct San Francisco branch of Swaine Adney,
    also short rise and double pleated and quite slim
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by