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Slim-Fitting Suits for Short Men

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by arottler, Mar 19, 2012.

  1. md2010

    md2010 Well-Known Member

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    Jul 11, 2011
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    Sydney
    

    I had Jaundice and then Chickenpox and few other diseases back to back when I was around 8-10 years old. And was really sick on bed for over 6 months. And no matter how much I eat I never gain weight . I don't even do any exercise .
     
  2. antikantian

    antikantian Well-Known Member

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    Jun 19, 2011
    I feel your pain. I'm 5'8" 115 pounds (I'm half Asian, and judging from my extended family on my Asian side, they were all around my size when they were my age; if anything, I have a few pounds on them. The downside is that after age 30, they all ballooned up, so I might be SOL with my current wardrobe in a few years). It's virtually impossible to find anything that fits, and I'm extremely picky about fit, so I usually have to go custom on shirts (12.5 neck) and suits/jackets. This is made more difficult given that I'm in North Carolina, so I typically go home to NYC for clothing.

    Maybe I shouldn't say this at the risk of all of you skinny bastards copping my goods, but Mr. Porter does have some XS/34's from time to time. I just picked up a Brioni SC in 34, and hopefully it'll fit with some tailoring. I fit a 34R pretty well, so here's hoping as I *really* want this item. I've actually never seen a Brioni 34 in the flesh, as in the stores they always start at 38R. There's still a nice unstructured Brioni XS SC on MRP, in a nice dark blue. Please don't buy it though - if this other example fits, I might want that one as well :p j/k...

    Speaking of Mr. P and skinny gents, I recently bought an XS rain coat there, and it was actually too small, go figure.

    As for less pricey items, if you have any family members in Europe, stores generally carry 34's. The non-Asian half of my family lives in Luxembourg, and they always pick up 34's during sale time. I received a few sport coats that fit reasonably well from Paul Smith, and they were like 200 Euro or something like that - although they were PS by Paul Smith, not the main line.
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2012
  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    I am terribly sorry to hear that, Sorry I had been rude before
     
  4. DJBeckfield

    DJBeckfield New Member

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    2
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2012
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    I'm having the exact same problems you are! I'm a college student as well standing at an always impressive 5'5" 125lbs... I've been trying to find a suit that fits perfectly for a few years now and have found some that work, but none that I love.

    I've been trying on some of the GAP coats and I haven't been too impressed with their fit, especially the coat length. I do like the way their pants fit with their low rise and slimmer fit through the legs.

    I have bought a few suits from Mens Wearhouse in the past and have been satisfied, but not in love with any of the suits. They carry 35s which is a start, but they still don't fit like I'd really like them to. My biggest problems have been with pant leg width and rise as well as the jacket length. Taking in the chest and midsection is pretty easy and inexpensive, but shortening the jacket is pretty costly and some tailors around me wont even do it.

    I have recently discovered a short men's store in my area which carries a few 34 extra shorts. I just bought a suit from them for a good price and will post a picture of its fit once it is done later this week!

    I'm so happy that I'm not alone!
     
  5. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Well-Known Member

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    Jan 23, 2011
    I'm 5'6" and 138-140 pounds and people usually call me skinny, but I'm also on the wrong side of 30 so you lads have a way to go. That said, i can feel your pain (somewhat).

    Someone mentioned trousers being an issue. I'd ape this. Make sure you get low rise trousers. Anything with a rise longer than 8.5" will make your legs look shorter. Keep it in mind.

    MTM can be a boon, but as a 46 IT size I usually just get my suits tailored and I'm good to go.

    At least you're not fat.
     
  6. ianGP

    ianGP Well-Known Member

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    794
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    Mar 6, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Ugh - all you skinny people!! I wish I were the same.... OTR clothing I've handled do not have drastic change in measurements to accommodate me...

    I just did rough measurements on myself tonight:
    Around the shoulders is 46 ¾"
    Chest 40" (39.5-ish if I don't breath lol)
    Waist is 30.5" (none to eat yet)

    Horrible measurements for suits :( As some of you have seen on my WAYWRN pics, I've got some fitment problems. All my jackets have to be taken in from the chest down to the waist ALOT to compensate for the big drop.

    And then the issue with my thighs.... I played soccer in school and the physique just carried with me........ I have to be careful not to taper too much or else I risk the trousers to look like clown pants....but the full bodied leg openings feel sloppy to me....I might have found a happy medium but time will tell.
     
  7. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Well-Known Member

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    Dec 10, 2008
    I'm 5'3", 120 lbs. Go MTM through Thick as Thieves if you cannot afford bespoke. It will be VERY SLIM and VERY FITTED and of good construction, and it will cost you about $500.
     
  8. Simplex

    Simplex Member

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2012
    Location:
    Chicago
    I'm about 5'6"-5'7" @ 127lbs. so I know your pain. For finding suits/jackets that fit me is a real challenge. I would say I'm a good size 34.

    For a poor college kid needing a cheap suit, the best fit for me is Topman. Although their quality department is lacking (all polyester, wool/polyester blends and few 100% cotton), it's one of the best fits for a skinny guy. Also, H&M will carry 34R(US)/44R(EU) but I noticed that their better made suits/jackets will not be in 34R (smallest is 36R). Jcrew XS blazers/jackets fit me well. Actually, their XS line is pretty close to my size, just a little to long in the arms. The only problem is that Jcrew usually do not have many XS available and even less XS blazers. The 36S suits/jackets are still too big for me. When I was studying abroad in Japan, Uniqlo became one of my favorite places. They're cheap, well fitted, and pretty good quality. For Uniqlo in the US, I go with XS. Their shirts fit so well to me that it's the closest to perfect without being bespoke.

    And like the previous poster said, don't be afraid of the kids section. I'll admit, it is a pretty big stigma to get past, it can open some more windows for you. I'd say, you can start off buying a blazer on Ebay. They'll usually go for $20-60 depending on the quality/brand, so it won't be too much of an investment and you can see how it fits. I fit into 16R or 18R, but they have some weird ass boxy cuts (aka tailor it like you should with all suits/jackets) and the button placement is higher for me. Since you're a little shorter than me, it'll be better as the button won't be as high on you, plus kids stuff is cheaper (I bought a Brooks Brothers suit for $220).

    Another option is made to measure (MTM) online shops. Some people have success, some have failure, but it's cheap. I would rather just go with bespoke to be on the safe side.

    Depending on how much you do want to spend, Brooks Brothers Black Fleece (Thom Browne) BB00 fits like a 34S. I put on a blazer and it fit perfectly. I'm just not rolling in the cash to drop $900+ on a blazer. So, if you do find yourself with excess cash, you can look into Black Fleece, but if you have that much cash, just go with bespoke.

    Depending on where you live, you can probably find several places to make custom made suits at reasonable prices. I live in Chicago and there are a lot of places that start off cheap $500 for suits and $350 for blazers/jackets. I haven't had a chance to check them out or know how well their product is. It's just another option to think about.

    EDIT:

    I forgot to add, I know a UK brand Jump the Gun makes their suits in 34S. I've been interested in them, but since they have working button holes I would have to pay more to adjust the sleeves.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2012
  9. atila

    atila Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    405
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2010
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Buy a short suit - as in 38S or 36S and then have a competent tailor shorten the jacket for you the extra .5" to 1" you need off - costs about $40-50.

    I'm 5'4 and 145lbs, athletic build... I wear a 38S which fits me fine in the chest and shoulders but even a "short" suit is still a bit too long for me... my tailor in Rowland Heights charges me $40 to shorten the jacket and it looks GREAT.

    edit: I should note, that before I bulked up and was around 125lbs, I had bought a suit that was a 35XS - 35 in the chest and an "extra short" and that length fit me perfectly. If you can find suits in XS it should do the trick for you, but generally those will be a 36 or smaller chest. Good luck
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2012
  10. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Well-Known Member

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    Toronto, Canada
  11. arottler

    arottler Member

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    Mar 19, 2012
    Thanks for all the help everyone! Lots of great suggestions!

    I've been thrifting a lot with no luck so far (as was expected), and since I live in Albuquerque I don't quite have immediate access to some of the more frequently mentioned names (Brooks Brothers, Nordstroms, etc..), but I'm going to suck it up and start looking at some boy's sections this week. I don't have a lot of shame in this regard, so I'll let everyone know what I find!

    Also, I had a friend with a phenomenally well-fitted suit recommend thick as thieves with an estimate of about 500 dollars for a solid suit. I hesitated initially, but I'm done growing, so I suppose I might as well?

    Thanks again for all the great info! I'll be sure to report back with pictures/prices on what I end up with. If any of the rest of you are half as frustrated as I am, I hope this whole thread has alleviated that at least a bit.
     
  12. djchinadog

    djchinadog New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2004
    Location:
    Beverly Hills, California, 90210, USA
    I would like to suggest our suit collection. Jimmy Au's for Men 5'8" and Under. We've been carrying short (5'5" to 5'8") and extra short sizes (5'2"-5'5") in suits and sportcoats since 1975 including slim fits starting at a 34xs and 34sh. Our entire collection is trimmer fit. Just another option you might want to consider as this would be a logical thread for me to promote our collection. You don't even have to come to Beverly Hills to try something on. Give us a call, we size you up in our sizing scale and we ship. You have 30 days with a full money back guarantee minus shipping as long as the clothing isn't damaged or worn (other than trying on). Our fit isn't some manufacturers MTM program, its our own design and pattern. Our online presence is limited, but then again, we are about the store experience. Our tailored clothing collection is supported in the same way with our furnishings and sportswear. Please post any questions you have about our collection. I'm very proud of what my father has accomplished for exclusively for shorter men and be happy to respond to anyone.

    regards,

    Alan Au

    Jimmy Au's for Men 5'8" and Under
    9408 Brighton Way
    Beverly Hills, CA 90210
    310-888-8708
     
  13. SilvRsr

    SilvRsr New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2012
    I'm roughly the same size as you (5'6", 135lbs). I actually went and tried out a slim fit suit from Kenneth Cole.

    http://www1.macys.com/shop/product/...oryID=17788#fn=sp=1&spc=182&ruleId=66&slotId=

    That one to be exact. I got the size at 36S, but for some strange reason the fitting around the chest was too tight which started to make the lapels bow out quite a bit. I think it could work for you. You'd have to get it tailored too (sleeves were a bit too long for myself, and the trousers came with a unfinished hem), but what good fitting suit doesn't, especially when it comes off the rack.
     
  14. arottler

    arottler Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2012
    Hey Folks,
    I know this thread has been mute for a while, but I thought I would let all the people who mentioned that they were roughly my size and having similar problems know that I ended up buying through Thick As Thieves, and I couldn't be happier. I did all the measurements myself, got to customize every aspect of the suit, and it was made and delivered in less than a month. For anyone willing to spend just under 500, it's an excellently made, phenomenally well-styled suit.

    Thanks again for all the help!
     
  15. wintourh007

    wintourh007 Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2011
    Location:
    NSW
    BB has a slim fitting line of suits as well.
     
  16. themodestman

    themodestman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    67
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2012
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Nice. Thanks for sharing. I was going to suggest Indochino, which is a very affordable MTM solution. If you can, post a pic of your new suit!

    -B
     
  17. Regg

    Regg Well-Known Member

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    Jul 8, 2011
    I'd add that ASOS has some of their own brand suits in size 34 jackets, and they are cheap, especially on sale. Right now I'm waiting to get back my suit from the tailor, I'll try to post pictures when it's done. I'm 5'7 and about 120-125
     
  18. themodestman

    themodestman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jun 12, 2012
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Also, Peter Manning NYC now has a blazer. I know it's not a suit, but still a great jacket option for guys under 5'8".

    -B
     
  19. Essential

    Essential Well-Known Member

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    281
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    Mar 8, 2012
    For that price, I'd rather stick with MTM [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2013
  20. ChipSkylark

    ChipSkylark New Member

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    Feb 12, 2014

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