Slim-fitting shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by youngteam, Oct 10, 2004.

  1. youngteam

    youngteam Member

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    Just recently I decided I can't wear my RL shirts any longer because they're too blouse-y and billowy, probably because I've become accustomed to wearing Banana Republic shirts, some of which are cut slimmer than their traditional dress shirts.

    Banana Republic, while serviceable, isn't the best quality, so I'm wondering if you all know of any designers that make slim-fitting shirts.

    Also, have any of you heard of Steven Alan? I read about his shirts in GQ. Evidently they're cut slimmer and shorter and meant to be worn untucked (they look very casual). They look interesting. Anybody here familiar with his stuff?
     


  2. aybojs

    aybojs Senior member

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    I took a look at the Steven Alan shirts on his website, and didn't find them that impressive. The fabrics are pretty dull, the collars look limp and lifeless, the design and detailing are pretty bland, and I imagine the construction isn't on the high quality side. For $158 they seem like a ripoff, considering that you could get numerous places to make you a made to measure shirt for that price.
     


  3. rsp1

    rsp1 Senior member

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    I have a Steven Alan shirt that I picked up at his eponymous Tribeca store (they're now carried at Bloomingdales and Barneys). Anyway, it is my go-to casual, weekend-wear shirt (white, with thing blue stripe) -- I wear it untucked with jeans. At least the style I have is made to look somewhat aged (it's somewhat frayed intentionally). It is, however, one of the softest cotton shirts I have ever owned and is thus exceptionally comfortable. It is also slim fitting. In summary, I love the shirt, but somewhat grimmace at the price, which is why I haven't purchased others.
     


  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I really like Steven Alan shirts as well. For me, they serve the same purpose as say, the similarly soft collared and deliberatedly laundered and wrinkled looking Paper Denim shirts made by Lorenzini, and are a little slimmer to boot. These shirts are a lot better to wear with jeans (d'oh, they were designed that way) than shirt that were made to wear with suits. Agood alternative to the lame guy poplin striped shirts that are the current cub uniform.
     


  5. montecristo#4

    montecristo#4 Senior member

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    Banana Republic shirts are a long way from being slim fitting, IMHO. Try a Thomas Pink slim fit (not worth the money unless you buy at the routine sales they hold), or a Zara shirt (not very high quality, but cut quite slim).
     


  6. youngteam

    youngteam Member

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    You're right, BR's shirts aren't slim-fitting, with the exception of their stretch poplins and their shirts that have the double-button collars, which are the ones I typically wear.

    I've been looking for understated, well-fitting quality shirts to wear with jeans, so based on your appraisals (and GQ's) I think I'll pick up a Steven Alan shirt. It's a little pricey, but quality > quantity.
     


  7. brescd01

    brescd01 Senior member

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    From personal experience I can say Barba and Carlo Franco shirts are quite slim-fitting. Someone reported Paul Smith and Brioni shirts are also very slim-fitting.
     


  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    You might also want to look at Coast shirts - there are usually lots of examples on Yoox.
     


  9. minimal

    minimal Senior member

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    prada's shirts are all cut both slim and long. They are expensive, but can often be found at considerable discount (for a very short while since they sell quickly when priced well).

    i'm 6'4", and almost "iggy pop" skinny (i.e. very skinny.),and their shirts fit me perfectly. i'm not sure who else can wear their stuff, since my arms are really long too.

    but they have some gorgeous fabrics. tho' if you can't find them on sale, you might as well have custom made as the cost is the same. i add, however, that custom shirtmakers don't seem to have the kind of fabrics that interest me: i like a little more "modern" and a little less trad. custom shirts seem to be a bit of a trade-off: you get perfect fit, but less innovative fabrics. [this all in my very limited experience & opinion. do i need to add that?]

    [side note: although prada's shirts and pants are cut this way, their suits are NOT. how strange. i lusted after a prada suit in a gorgeous fabric, but the long was not nearly long enough nor narrow enough in the waist.]
     


  10. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    youngteam -

    These are all good recommendations. I can't say I like the Alan shirts, but that's just because I'm picky about collars on that kind of shirt, and those are too soft for their shape (for me). Admittedly, they're not really my style, so that's not an appraisal of their quality/style for you.

    Since you mention RL shirts in your first post, have you looked at the RL custom fits? Relative to the other designers mentioned (prada, Paul Smith, etc.) they're not slim at all, but are a lot more reasonable than the acreage of material on a regular RL shirt. They're also now commonly available on discount (my cheapness comes through) at Filene's Basement/Marshall's etc., for like $30.

    Also, look vintage if you don't mind. I've found a few great, clearly older shirts at thrift shops, no name brands, that fit, I think, like what you have in mind. Polyester blends, naturally.

    LA Guy has a point that the Alan shirts look better with jeans than dress shirts, because they are designed to be worn that way, while dress shirts are made to be tucked. I was out over the weekend and the number of idiots (idiots in addition to, not because of, their clothing) wearing oversized striped shirts with slim jeans was appalling. It's a weird look: skinny legs with a nightshirt-like multi-colored monstrosity down to mid thigh. So much pomade... I hate to admit, the ladies seem to dig it. I must be going to the wrong bars.
     


  11. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Minimal You are correct about most custom shirtmakers having very basic offerings. I do my best to find odd sample cuts that are a little more interesting. I often get leftovers from desingers. Also most shirtmakers don't even understand what sort of look these young guys even want. the biggist change is in the shape of the tail and the fullness in the hips or lack of. To acheive the right balance. The problem is that a shirt worn out is often too short to be tucked in with a suit. I have had several customers bring me their own non-traditional fabrics. Carl www.cego.com
     


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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  13. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    There is a simple solution: order two shirts, one for tucking in, another for leaving out. [​IMG] Jon.
     


  14. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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    I echo the recommendation for going custom at CEGO. Carl's a great guy and some of his odd stock would make a unique shirt. If you're not prepared to venture into the bespoke or MTM market, I suggest checking out Seize sur Vingt (16of20) in SoHo. They use a lot of Etro-esque fabrics and are markedly cheaper. The construction is on par or better than most of the other Italian makers (not quite to the standards of Borrelli or even Charvet), while the cuts are definitely slimmer and more youth oriented.
     


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