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Slim fit tuxedo -- any suggestions?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by TheDroog, Aug 28, 2008.

  1. TheDroog

    TheDroog Senior member

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    I've done a few searches on both SF and AAAC but didn't quite dig up as much info as I would have like, so I'm starting a new thread. (If there's an old one I missed somehow, please let me know).

    After years of renting, I've decided to buy a tuxedo. I want it slim fitting with satin peak lapels, preferably one-button. Flat front pants are a must. I consider this an investment, so I'm willing to spend up to ~$1500 on this, although $1000 or less would be better. I'm not interested in a H&M style tuxedo that will fall apart after a few years.

    So far, RL Black Label's tuxedo is the only name that seems to pop up with regularity. There was a thread about using Mr. Ned in NYC, but I don't live there so I wouldn't be able to go there for multiple fittings.

    What are my best options at this point? What brands best fit this description? I'm not keen on bespoke or MTM at this point, but I'm willing to listen to what others here have to say.
     
  2. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm in the same boat. Black Label would be a perfect solution if they made a peak lapel. Right now, they only do a notch. I'd also like grosgrain vs. satin. I asked if they can do a special order, but they don't do MTM in BL, at least for now.

    I'd also be curious if anyone has any other OTR suggestions. Corneliani?
     
  3. LesterSnodgrass

    LesterSnodgrass Senior member

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    I have a blue label that is quite slim and has ff pants. It is SB, peaked grosgrain lapel. Will Field has it right now, but once he is back from holiday and I pick it up, I'll post pics.
     
  4. CunningSmeagol

    CunningSmeagol Senior member

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    I'm in the same boat. Black Label would be a perfect solution if they made a peak lapel. Right now, they only do a notch. I'd also like grosgrain vs. satin. I asked if they can do a special order, but they don't do MTM in BL, at least for now.

    I'd also be curious if anyone has any other OTR suggestions. Corneliani?


    With black label's modern skinny cut, is it really necessary to have peak lapels?
     
  5. sartort

    sartort Senior member

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    If you are not a classicist, then the black label tux is the way to go (with the notch lapels). I tried it on at the Chicago RL store on Michigan Ave last Labor Day weekend in fact, and it is superb.

    That being said, I found a nwt PRL Midnight Navy single button peak lapel with flat front pants on ebay this summer for a song ($310). It has grograin lapels, and like the OP, I prefer these to satin. It fits perfectly. Granted it is not quite as slim as my Black Label suits, but only by mere fractions. It's still slim fitting and I am not even going to get the sides taken in like I normally would on most things outside of Black Label.

    Good luck with your search. You might also try to see if Paul Stuart has a Phineas Cole model with your specs.
     
  6. TheDroog

    TheDroog Senior member

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    With black label's modern skinny cut, is it really necessary to have peak lapels?

    It's not a make-or-break detail for me, but I read somewhere that peak lapels are a more classic look when it comes to tuxes; something about visually broadening the appearance of your chest.

    [​IMG]

    The most important thing is a slim fit though. I tried a tux on at Brooks Brothers about 5-6 years ago and was appalled at how baggy it was, not just through the length of jacket but in their pants as well. I asked if they had anything slimmer and they said the one I was trying on was the only type they carried. Maybe that's changed since then.
     
  7. needshoehelp

    needshoehelp Senior member

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    I think BB might have a Black Fleece tux.
     
  8. athletics

    athletics Senior member

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    I had a Samuelsohn made a few months ago for my wedding and it was very slim fitting. Good price point and would be in the price range you mentioned. They are certainly worth a look.
     
  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Valentino, this season, has really gone the distance with formalwear. Maybe you should try their stores. The price will be outrageous (about $3.5K), but you could probably get something come sale time.

    The best value for the dollar, imo, is the Polo Fairbanks tuxedo. It actually fits quite slim, and though it typically comes with pleated pants, I believe that you can special order flat front pants. I think that current retail is $1350, right at your range.

    Good luck.
     
  10. CunningSmeagol

    CunningSmeagol Senior member

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    It's not a make-or-break detail for me, but I read somewhere that peak lapels are a more classic look when it comes to tuxes; something about visually broadening the appearance of your chest.

    I guess that's the point I was trying to make, that slim fit and peak lapels don't necessarily complement each other. Not by any means an expert here, just an opinion.

    Valentino, this season, has really gone the distance with formalwear. Maybe you should try their stores. The price will be outrageous (about $3.5K), but you could probably get something come sale time.

    The best value for the dollar, imo, is the Polo Fairbanks tuxedo. It actually fits quite slim, and though it typically comes with pleated pants, I believe that you can special order flat front pants. I think that current retail is $1350, right at your range.

    Good luck.


    I have one of these Polos. While I don't find it to be particularly slim, it is a great tux, and pretty easily found on sale.
     
  11. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    I guess that's the point I was trying to make, that slim fit and peak lapels don't necessarily complement each other. Not by any means an expert here, just an opinion.

    Well, I'm not an expert either, but I'm quite sure you're absolutely wrong.
    Peak lapels or shawl collar are the only two choices you have when it comes to dinner jacket lapel style, and I think that a peak lapel with a slim cut looks great.
     
  12. TheDroog

    TheDroog Senior member

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    UPDATE: I went shopping for a slim fit tuxedo a few months back and here are my notes on what I saw at various department stores. (Sorry, no pictues). Hopefully it will be useful to anyone else who is looking for a slim tuxedo.

    First, a little background. I wear a 38 or 40 suit depending on the maker; my waist size is 32/33.
    At each store I asked specifically for slim fit tuxedos. This is what I saw as of Winter 2008. All prices are full retail.

    Brooks Brothers: ($1000 including pants) 1818 39R Notch Lapel one-button jacket. Flat front pants sold separately. A boxy fit, even when sizing down to 38R. The clerk said the sides could be taken in, but it would be a very drastic alteration. I'd rather find something that fit better off the rack.

    Canali ($1800) 38R Notch lapel, one-button jacket. Pleated pants. A decently slim fit right off the rack, though not the best.

    Ermenegildo Zegna ($2400) 38R Peak lapel, one-button jacket. Pleated pants. Similar to the Canali, with a decent fit off the rack.

    Hickey Freeman ($1500) 40R Peak lapel, one-button jacket. Pleated pants. Way too baggy. No 38's were in stock, but it would have needed considerable alterations anyway.

    Hugo Boss ($800) 38R Peak lapel, one-button jacket. Flat front pants. Nice slim fit, similar in cut and shape to the Paul Smith.

    Paul Smith ($1300) 40R, Peak lapel, one-button jacket. Flat front pants. Nice slim fit with an excellent hand. Of all the tuxedos I tried on, this one fit me best.

    Polo Black Label ($2300) 40R Notch lapel, one button jacket. Flat front pants. A great fit off the rack for me. I wasn't in love with the notch lapel though.

    Polo Blue Label ($1400) 38R Peak lapel, one-button jacket. Pleated pants. Blue label isn't a true slim fit. The 40R was a bit loose around the shoulders. When I sized down to a 38 R, the fit was too tight, with rippling across the back. I guess I'm in between sizes here. It is slimmer than the HF and Samuelsohn though.

    Samuelsohn ($1100) 38R Notch lapel, one-button jacket. Pleated pants. A SF member recommended these, but this is a very conservative, boxy fit.

    Ted Baker Endurance ($750) 40R Peak lapel, one button jacket. Flat front pants. Slim style that fits off the rack very well. But the wool felt cheap, worse than any other tuxedo I tried on. The lining under the collar had a weird velvet material that shed red "hairs" all over the jacket.

    Tom Ford ($4500) 40R, Peak lapel, one-button jacket. Flat front pants. Very slender fit, beautiful hand. However, the lapels are curved and seemed excessively large to my eye.
     
  13. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    Sounds like MTM might be your best option. Sammy has a wide variety of silhouettes and ther would be no trouser or lapel styling issues to deal with.
     
  14. athletics

    athletics Senior member

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    Samuelsohn ($1100) 38R Notch lapel, one-button jacket. Pleated pants. A SF member recommended these, but this is a very conservative, boxy fit.

    Samuelsohn has several jacket styles to choose from. Mine is a very natural shoulder and the pants are flat and very slim. Especially since I had the tailor take them in even more.
     
  15. js4design

    js4design Senior member

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    You might also try to see if Paul Stuart has a Phineas Cole model with your specs.

    i spoke with a SA at Paul Stuart about a Phineas Cole formal shirt, and apparently they don't make a tuxedo yet. but she did say their designer is working on one, and i should get an email when they release it. i'll be sure to pass it along to the other members here. im interested to see how it turns out.
     
  16. GameEnder

    GameEnder Member

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    Droogie,

    Im in the market for a slim-fit, peak-lapel, wedding tux and came across your thread. The Hugo Boss tux from Macy's is in my price range and looks to be pretty close to the ideal for me. However, they're out of my size (42L) on the website.

    It would help me out a lot if you could answer a couple questions:

    -Where did you try it on? I've called up >5 Macy's stores (both in the LA and Chicago areas) and none of them carry this. Most claim that there are different models available on the website, than in the store.

    -I noticed that you listed 40R as your normal size, but you tried on a few 38R, including the Boss tux. Does it fit larger than normal in the shoulders? I'm considering ordering a smaller size, if this is the case, considering Macy's generous return policy.

    Thanks!
     
  17. JohnGalt

    JohnGalt Senior member

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    I had good luck with Costume National.
     
  18. East Oakland

    East Oakland Senior member

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    I think TAT is doing formal wear now:

    http://www.thickasthievesla.com/lookbook.html

    "Every so often I actually listen to what my clients want, well I ALWAYS listen, but don't necessarily do anything about it (!) Having gotten quite a few requests for a formal tuxedo, I decided to give it a go since my house cut one button suit wasn't too far removed from a tuxedo style. So here is the first offering of a 2 piece tux (no cummerbund, but does anyone even wear one anymore?) Black peak lapel, one button design. Jacket is unvented, all buttons are satin covered, single button on jacket sleeve, satin lapels and trim on jacket, satin stripe down trouser leg. Trouser has no rear pockets and 2 button'd side tabs rather than belt loops. So next time you need to go to a black tie event, show up in style."
     
  19. TheDroog

    TheDroog Senior member

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    Droogie, Im in the market for a slim-fit, peak-lapel, wedding tux and came across your thread. The Hugo Boss tux from Macy's is in my price range and looks to be pretty close to the ideal for me. However, they're out of my size (42L) on the website. It would help me out a lot if you could answer a couple questions: -Where did you try it on? I've called up >5 Macy's stores (both in the LA and Chicago areas) and none of them carry this. Most claim that there are different models available on the website, than in the store. -I noticed that you listed 40R as your normal size, but you tried on a few 38R, including the Boss tux. Does it fit larger than normal in the shoulders? I'm considering ordering a smaller size, if this is the case, considering Macy's generous return policy. Thanks!
    I tried it on at the Hugo Boss store, so if you have one in the area that's where you should go. Some department stores like Bloomingdale's and Saks carry them as well. As for chest size, Boss is trimmer than some brands but isn't super slim. From my earlier post, you can see that I wear a 40R in RLBL and Paul Smith (known for slim fits), but a 38R in Boss. If you're a 42L in a "normal" suit, you could probably do the Boss "40L" for the slim fit you're looking for. Hope this helps.
     
  20. GameEnder

    GameEnder Member

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    Thanks for the input!
     

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